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bad credit loan in ohio
If I would pay off or make arrangements for payments on my credit report for items that were charged off...and in collections...would that start the 7 year clock all over again? I know the damage is already done to my credit report. BUt once items are paid and are paid for awhile on my credit report...over time will become better for an example if I owe a creditor some money that's scheduled to come off my credit report within 3 years and I pay it off in full...will that start the 7 year clock all over again...or will it show that its paid and off within 3 years I know it will still look bad till its off but will the clock start all over again?
I haven't started paying them back yet. And I know the damage is already done...but just need to know if I have an item thats is to come off my credit report say in 3 years or less ...that if I would pay it off in full would it restart the 7 years that its on my credit report all over again? OR will it still come off in 3 years still looking bad for those last three years but paid. Will it restart the clock or not...
The idea of the 'clock' restarting is different for the statute of limitations than it is for credit reporting purposes. Do not confuse the two. Below I will explain both. Statute of Limitations All states have a body of statutes in their codes of law called, "Limitations of Actions," commonly referred to as the statutes of limitations. The idea behind these laws is that we as a society have decided that we don't want old debts hanging around forever -- we want people and businesses to be able to move on with their lives without worrying about being sued. The length of time a creditor has to sue you depends on your state of residence and the type of debt. For example, many states allow longer for creditors to file suit to collect on closed-ended consumer loans than on credit card debts. Most states give credit card issuers three to four years to file suit after default, but some states allow as many as 10 years. Check out the Bills.com Collection Laws and Statute of Limitations page. The site I just mentioned has more information about statutes of limitations and a list of limitations by state. If a creditor files a lawsuit after the allowed time, the court will usually throw the case out and not allow the creditor to file suit again (called dismissed with prejudice). However, you must raise the issue of expired statute of limitations in a written response to the lawsuit, or else the court will not know that the statute of limitations has expired. Although the periods vary from state to state, I believe that there is only one (Ohio) that is longer than 10 years. Remember: The passing of the SOL does not mean that a creditor cannot sue you. It means if a lawsuit is filed you should have an absolute defense against the lawsuit if you raise the defense. Also, keep in mind that the passage of the SOL does not prevent a creditor from calling you to collect on the debt; it simply provides you an absolute defense in court if the creditor files suit. Credit Report Federal law (US Code Title 15, §1681c) controls the behavior of credit reporting agencies. This law is known as the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA). Under FCRA §605 (a) and (b), an account in collection will appear on a consumer's credit report for 7.5 years. The clock starts approximately 180 days after the date of first delinquency on the account. To learn when an account will be removed by the credit reporting agencies (TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian and others), add 7.5 years to the date of first delinquency. Subsequent activity, such as resolving the debt, is irrelevant to the seven-year rule. However, if the debt is a tax lien, that can appear for seven years from the date of payment. A bankruptcy will appear for ten years from the date of the final order. Delinquent federal student loans can be reported indefinitely, i.e., for as long as they are delinquent. Just because a debt is removed from a credit report does not mean the statute of limitations for receiving a judgment to collect the debt has passed. Federal credit report laws and a state statute of limitations laws are separate and independent from each other. The 7.5 years starts running from the date of first delinquency, which generally means seven and a half years from the date of last payment. Review your credit report carefully to make sure the date of first delinquency being reported on these accounts are correct. The law stating that derogatory items must be removed from credit reports after seven years is designed to help consumers recover from past credit mistakes and help them rebuild their credit rating. If you find charged-off accounts appearing on your credit report after seven years, you may want to dispute the incorrect listings with the credit bureaus. Some creditors, especially debt purchasing firms, will report inaccurate charge-off dates to extend the amount of time an old account appears on your credit report. If you find any inaccurate information, you should dispute the credit report listing with the bureau in question. See the Federal Trade Commission document FTC Facts for Consumers: How to Dispute Credit Report Errors for more information. The seven-year rule only applies to derogatory items, not to accounts that you are keeping current, or which you closed in good standing. As long as an account is not considered derogatory, it can remain on your credit report indefinitely. In fact, even accounts that are no longer reporting to the credit bureaus may continue to appear on your report as long as the account is not a derogatory item. It is common to see positive items that are more than 20 years old appearing on a credit report. I hope this information helps you Find. Learn & Save. Best, Bill http://www.bills.com/blog/
Derogatory items age off your credit report 7-1/2 years from the date of first deficiency. This is per the FCRA and NOTHING restarts this clock. JUDY is wrong (like so many of her other answers). The Statute of Limitations (SOL), the timeframe to bring lawsuit, varies from state to state: http://www.bcsalliance.com/y_debt_sol.ht... Typically the SOL starts from the date of last activity or last payment. Making a payment can restart the SOL. People often confuse and merge these two very different things. Since paying off old debt won't help you score, you may as well settle for as little as possible. You may be able to settle for 25% to 50%, depending on how old the debt. Lump sum gets the best deals. Payment plans must be short term. Get any settlement agreement in writing before you pay and keep that agreement along with your payment proof, forever. Do not give the collector direct access to your bank account.
Negatives fall off your credit report 7 years and 180 days from the date of first deficiency. Nothing can re-start this clock. This is per the FCRA. The good news is that the older the item, the less impact on your score. At the time you settled the items, you could have requested delete for payment as part of the settlement. It's too late for that now. You could try disputing the items with the credit bureau. Maybe the creditor won't verify the item to the credit bureau and it will be removed. But don't count on that working.
Pay off the collection items - don't make payments. Try to negotiate a settlement - such as 50% off the balance. Tell them you have this money and would like to pay them before you spend it on something else. See if you can get it in writing and never send a check with your account number. Send a certified or cashiers check - very well worth the 8 bucks. When you pay your score does not improve. The fico is based on history. Slowly after the item is paid your score will start improving. And yes, it will re-set the clock. Keep in mind that companies tend to take you to court in year 6. But... If you ever want to buy a home. Major lenders like FHA do not go by the scores. They view your reports in detail. They will notice the items as "paid" and act accordingly. That is why you see people with horrendous scores get homes - they cleaned up their reports. Collection agencies don't want payments - you must settle or negotiate. Get a book on Debt and Credit Repair from your library or bookstore to teach you how to negotiate like a pro. /
Offering to pay may reset the statute of limitations--that's a state law thing. But the actual reporting is based on date of first delinquency, and ends at DoFD+7.5 years. That's federal law. Sometimes you need to prod the credit agencies to make them comply, but they will. The only potential pitfall is the creditor/collector re-aging the debt, which is illegal. Keep copies of whatever documents you have that prove the true age of the debt.
The Credit Reference agencies remove all CCJs, Court Orders, Late payments etc after 6 years. If you've settled the payment, it can improve your credit rating, but it won't remove the damage of not paying the debt in the first place. Have you placed a notice of correction on your credit report?
For Credit and finance solutions I recommend this website where you can find all the solutions. http://creditandfinancesol.info/index.ht...RE :Settling debt restarting the clock for the credit report.? If I would pay off or make arrangements for payments on my credit report for items that were charged off...and in collections...would that start the 7 year clock all over again? I know the damage is already done to my credit report. BUt once items are paid and are paid for awhile on my credit report...over time will become better for an example if I owe a creditor some money that's scheduled to come off my credit report within 3 years and I pay it off in full...will that start the 7 year clock all over again...or will it show that its paid and off within 3 years I know it will still look bad till its off but will the clock start all over again? Update: I haven't started paying them back yet. And I know the damage is already done...but just need to know if I have an item thats is to come off my credit report say in 3 years or less ...that if I would pay it off in full would it restart the 7 years that its on my credit report all over again? OR will it still come off in 3 years still looking bad for those last three years but paid. Will it restart the clock or not... Update 2: I am still new at this yahoo answers and cannot see how to respond to a specific person....but thank you JUDY for letting me know that yes it will restart the clock...I know the other information...just didn't know if it will restart the clock or not...THANKS to all that answered!! Follow 7 answers
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bad credit loan in ohio
We are in dept by 100,000 dollars We take home 4800 after taxes a month Our mortate is 1800 (no second mortgate) owe185,000 on our house. Worth about 250,000 - 270,000. Credit is to low to take out a line of credit. 15,000 to IRS IS OWED (250 a month) 25,000 STUDENT loans (185 a month) 15,000 loan at 7% (330 a month) 48,000 credit cards at 23% (those payments are $1200 a month) My son goes to a private school because he has some issues - that is 8500 a year I know we should not have bought our home 10 years age, my husband has been paying our other bills on credit cards. I am depressed and have 2 kids. What is our best obtion? Will we lose our home too. We live in Ohio and we are up to date with student loans and house. My husband does not want to go bankrupt. I just want what is best for our family. This is tearing us apart, but I can not afford divorce. Bad time to sell! Help!
Check out some of the resources by Suze Orman and Dave Ramsey. Both give really good advice on dealing with debt. They both have programs (Suze on TV, Dave on Radio) that are really good. Start to watch/listen to those. You will hear others call in with similar problems. You also get good basic info about all kinds of money matters that help you adjust how you view money. Dave Ramsey talks about the "baby steps". Those are really good advice and it helps you to focus on what you need to do. Larry Wingate has a real blunt - in your face approach - but he makes sense as well. http://www.larrywinget.com/http://www.daveramsey.com/http://www.suzeorman.com/In order to make changes in your spending habits - you have to get educated about money. As far as the debt goes -- Step one is to stop adding to it. Take the credit cards and freeze them in a block of ice or cut them up. You can't get rid of your debt when you constantly add to it. Keep a diary of every penny you spend for one month. If you give the kids $5 to take to the mall - note it. If you stop at the gas station and buy a coke - note it. At the end of the month - you will find you are wasting money -- that you did not even realize you were wasting. It's the same thing weight loss people tell you to do (and as someone who battles the bulge - I have done). You don't think you're eating that much until you actually see it on paper. Same thing with money and spending. Then make a list of all your debts. Focus on the highest interest rate debts first. (thats going to be the credit cards). You can focus on the highest rate card first -- or the smallest debt card first. In your situation - I'd focus on the smallest debt card first (even if it's the lowest interest rate). Make minimum payments on every thing else and put all your extra money on that card. Once you pay it off - you get a mental boost. You start to feel more in control of your situation and empowered. You and your husband need to sit down - develop an action plan -- a budget. Then stick to it. Just having a plan for how to deal with the debt will help with the depression. You won't be out of debt - but you'll have a plan for dealing with and will start to take back some control. You need to control your debt -- not let it control you. Good Luck.
Best option is to cut down on some expenses such as the private school - whatever issues your son may have you can check with the public schools to see if they can accomodate his needs or homeschool him? Some ideas for you; do you work? How about a second job for extra money? Keep paying the IRS and minimum payments on your other bills that are REQUIRED. Have you called your credit card companies to work out a better payment plan? Your most important ISSUES right now to protect your family is your mortgage and that IRS. Do you have any assets you could liquidate? How about owning a second car? A boat? Stocks, bonds, etc? Make a new rule - NO MORE Take out food - stick to cheap homemade meals. Peanut butter and jelly, macaroni and cheese, meatloaf, top ramen as a soup, etc. for examples. Cut down on other costs such as LONG DISTANCE bills (tell phone company to LOCK any outgoing long distance calls), have that cable and internet TURNED OFF and stick to the free 3 local channels on television. Have a Garage Sale to make some quick dough on things you and yoru family do not need anymore or is a LUXURY. You are not alone - All the best to you!
Your credit cards are burrying you! You know that. You need to seek out a debt counselor. First you need to curb spending that is causing you to pay bills on your credit cards. You need to cut them up and stop using them. You need to attack the the big credit card debt first. If you were to drop it by $8k you will quickly start to see a way out fo debt. Depending on where you live your home / mortgage seems reasonable. If you have a fixed rate loan you should be in good shape. You could look at refinancing. If your interest rate is over 7% you could drop it by upto 1% which will free up about $200 a month for you. You can place that extra money towards paying down the debt. After that hit your 7% auto loan and then your head will be above water. Your IRS debt seems really hight for back taxes based on your after tax income. You need to figure out that is correct.
20-40 5 minutes for a shuttle isn't a lot of a shuttle. Pharmacy classes get more beneficial and bigger more durable as time is going on, so if it really is difficult now, it will be a lot more durable later, and on the grounds that you're in a mixed application, that's going to be very difficult for a lengthy lengthy at the same time as. you're properly, Pharmacy is one in all those fields that doubtless anybody is interested in now, so that's going to get a lot a lot more beneficial aggressive each and each twelve months that you're in college, although the time you get out, who's often occurring with what that interest marketplace will seem as if. Pharmacists also do not commence off at $100K/twelve months, don't know who gave you that incorrect effect. Nursing is surely corresponding to pharmacy in this appreciate, anybody is doing it, so the interest marketplace is starting to be more beneficial crowded. The Pharmacist degree is a doctorate, while nurses do not surely choose some thing previous both-twelve months associates, although, Nursing is starting to be more beneficial and bigger 'professionalized', meaning they require higher and better ranges for get properly of entry to positions. a minimum of with Pharmacy that ought to't happen, because it really is already on the doctoral element. once you're depressing then drop out and make sure out what you want to do. in the experience that your moms and dads are not paying for college then their critiques on the region shouldn't carry a lot weight, it expenditures no longer some thing for them to assert 'oh no, stay interior this methodology, it will be well worth it', what even if it really is not, it really is not any epidermis off their the teeth. typically although Pharmacists do properly sufficient and are not extraordinarily harassed by way of their student debt. if you're no longer transferring into this methodology and are nervous that your 2 years in pre-pharm are a waste, properly, they are, and that is your fault, isn't it, for signing up for a application like that. provide the slot to someone it really is committed to it.
I've been posting similar questions and we are trying to get out of credit card debt. I called some CCCS companies, but look on http://www.nfcc.org to get a plan from them. Here is an answer I got from one of my questions yesterday::: CCCS is a reputable organization. I used them with fabulous results and highly recommend them. Keep in mind that a debt management program affects you while bankruptcy affects you AND your creditors who trusted you in good faith. Bankruptcy is a blow to your reputation and not only for the 10 years that it stays reported. You racked up the debts... it's time to focus on repaying them diligently. Save credit needs for a mortgage not for a car, vacation or trips to McDonalds. Learn from your mistakes and come up with a plan to increase income and/or reduce expenses. If you can't do that on your own, check out what CCCS can offer you. There are no "fees" to CCCS but something called a donation. Trust me they are saving you more than you'll be paying them.
There is only one thing that you can do (other than bankruptcy which I would NOT recommend) and that is to free up some cash flow. How and where you do this is your choice but if you are serious about getting out of debt then you need to be willing to take the proper steps, and it will not be easy. The first and probably most important thing, also one of the hardest, is going to be selling your house. Unfotunately it is not the best time but things are starting to pick up around the country and here in Ohio. If you know your house should be in the $250-$270K range it needs to be put on today at $249,000. I know it sounds backwards but now is not the time to try and be greedy every day you have your house it is going to keep adding to your debt, and lets be honest you are going to lower the price when it doesnt sell anyways. In reality by the time everything is done this should leave you with around $220,000 after fees and neogtiating and so on. Payoff on $185,000 will probably be closer to $187,000 which will leave you with a nice $33,000 check roughly. With that check take half of it and apply it immediately toward your HIGHEST interest rate credit card(s). Yes there are some people out there who say to pay down the lowest debt first but DONT DO IT. The principle behind paying your lowest debt ones first is you are basicaly lying to yourself because it LOOKS like you are getting somewhere. In reality though you are much better off finacially to take on the highest interest rates first. Its not rocket science, the highest interest rate cards are where you are giving the most money away. Keep the rest of the money, you always want to have some backup cash and you will need some of it toward a deposit on an apartment- I know this part sucks but like I said if you are serious about getting out of debt thats what needs to happen and saving your credit now will allow you to buy another house as soon as you get you finances in order, thats not going to happen with a bankruptcy/foreclosure. With roughly $15,000 shaved off of your credit card debt and $1,000 mo. saved from your mortgage by renting a $800/mo apartment you will be able to see your way out of debt in no time. Cut any and all frivolous spending and take all of the extra money you have every month and pay down the highest rate loans first. In other words if you do not NEED it to survive its a luxuary and needs to be cut. Remember you have $15,000 sitting in the bank so saving money right now is not an issue use every penny toward your debt. After you have done this look for a 0% introductory credit card. They are not hard to find and will offer you a 0% rate on your balance transfers- a free loan! Transfer your balances to that and then all of the money you pay will stricly go to paying down your debt! Be sure to read the fine print with these, some will have the 0% for life on the transfer and some will only have ot for a period of time. Unlike what most other people will tell you credit cards are great! Only if used right though. I challenge anyone to show me a credit card that can swipe itself, it doesnt exist! Credit cards dont put people in debt people put people in debt. When used properly though credit cards can make life much easier on you, save you money, and build your credit all at the same time! The key to using them is to only spend what you need to spend and to pay off the balance in full every month- no interest! Now the good part. Doing this will leave you with roughly $2,000 mo. of extra money after your minimum payments on EVERYTHING!! On the high side we will say your insurance, utilities, food, and so on will add up to $1,000/mo. This means that if your son needs his schooling then give it to him. Dont let this lead to divorce!! Things may be tough but stick it out and work through it together. You are much stronger as a couple than apart. And after everything is said and done you will have $1,000/mo to put towards paying extra down on your debt. You could probably be close to out of debt and out of an apratment (into a $125k ish house) within a year or two as long as you keep in mind that you are paying down debt and dont just take the extra money and spend it on wants instead of needs. Good luck with everything. Like I said none of this is easy but if you are serious about getting out of debt without taking the I dont want to pay my bills bankruptcy route then this is what you need to do. No matter what keep you head up and dont let this come between your marriage!
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My husband has bad credit (score is around 540 and he has like 15 negative things on his report, including a short-sale of our home). My husband makes good money and we have began fixing our credit but it could take a long time and money to pay off what I can't get deleted by disputing. I have known people to buy a house only months after bankruptcy. How long would it take to be able to buy a house after bankruptcy in Ohio? Would it be quicker to repair everything or file bankruptcy. Please don't be rude. Medical reasons got us in a bad spot and we are now trying to recover. And only answer if you truely know what you are talking about.
If you want to eventually buy a house: Don't file for bankruptcy. It'll further injure your credit. That'll only set you back further. Yes, back a few years ago it was possible to buy a house only months after bankruptcy. It's not possible to do so (at least to buy conventionally) today. Those days are long gone, along with the no-doc 125% interest only ARM loans. To get a good handle on your prospects, go to a good mortgage broker. He or she will be able to give you better guidance on how long it might take. In today's market, really, it's anyone's guess. I'd say (just a real rough guess) that if you work really dilligently at paying off debts, fixing your other credit problems, etc., it might take 3-4 years. Add on another year with a bankruptcy. And don't spend time disputing legitimate items on your credit report. That tends not to be effective. On the other hand, absolutely dispute any inaccuracies. You might look into a lease-option (or contract for deed). Still, wait until you've cleaned up your credit a bit and are back on solid ground.
I also live in Ohio. I have not known it to be possible to buy a house after bankruptcy until at least 5 years have passed, if the bankruptcy is from your own debt. However, that said, you can do a couple of things. Keep working on cleaning up your credit. That's a no-brainer, of course. But you can also append a letter/statement to your credit report for the reasons your credit is in bad shape. When I bought my house, it had been 6 years since my bankruptcy. My payment record was clean since the bankruptcy--even though the details were still on the report. But--my bankruptcy has been the result of a fraud--I was the victim of the fraud. That made a BIG difference in my report, though not in my score. My score was still just okay, not excellent. So the mortgage went through without too much trouble. I wrote a letter to the lender (FHA) and they read it and realized that the fraud had been something out of my control, and that I would not have had credit problems if it hadnt' happened--becuase I had a good record otherwise. That's the key to getting this to work. If your payment history is good despite the problems you have--or if you are clearly attempting to make good on your debts, then you can sometimes overcome the score and get a mortgage anyway. Still, it takes time. I did not have a short-sale or a foreclosure on my record, though. It may be easier if you do declare the bankruptcy--if your debts qualify. (not all medical debt does.) As soon as your bankruptcy is discharged, you can begin to rebuild your credit--by getting a high-rate or secured credit card, and/or a car loan. Make those payments on time every time. Within one year, you can try for a mortgage. The only problem is this: with all the low-down-payment deals pretty much disappearing, and the credit market tightening, you'll probalby have to go with a conventional loan at a regular bank---and that will be a lot harder. You can re-qualify for "first-time homebuyer" FHA status if you have not owned a home in five years. That may give you a lower rate, too. Anyway, good luck to you. I hope I've given you a little insight.
Medical problems are the Number One cause of bankruptcy in US because we have a nonexistent national health care system. Bankruptcy will have further negative impact on your credit--don't do it. In current lending environment it will take time--during the boom, many loans which shouldn't have been made were made, and now they're defaulting. You're NOT ready to buy a home now. Work on repairing your credit, and on saving up a down payment. You can buy another home, but you need to wait 6-18 months, while improving your credit and down payment. You need at least 3.5% (and 5% is better) down for FHA, and with poor credit, the larger down payment, the better your chances.
You can try and find a house on a lease-option contract, rent-to-own or owner-financing. There is a variety of creative ways to get financing you just have to into that direction. Also as to you idea of settling compared to bankruptcy, it's always better to settle... if you can. More and more banks and credit cards companies are willing to settle, it just takes time and perseverance. Good luck
Get a lease purchase house; slowly pay off all the bills. when your scores are over 700, apply for a new first mortgage to buy the house you are leasing. easy happy new year [write off none of the debts; pay them off, slowly if needed but pay them off]
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I am going to be going to The Ohio State University at Newark. My pops worked on Main Campus so I will be receiving 1/2 Tuition....that is the only help I will be receiving towards Financial Help in paying for College, besides the 2 small loans they gave me (fafsa) . O-state is saying my family can contribute 12k, which they can NOT. My dad said he will NOT be helping me and my mom only makes 20k a year so she can not contribute much. When its time to pay the tuition bill, what if I can't? I have a feeling the 2 loans I signed off for won't be enough because they factored in my fam. contributing 12k. Can I take out Another Loan when I get my bill that will help me out for that bill and the rest of the years tuition so I won't have to take out anymore loans? I just scheduled classes and my latest class ends at 3ish. So I can work all the time after that, but I want to also have time to study and do papers and all that other junk. I'm kind of freaking out about finances right now.
Schools give you the max amount they can in loans the first time around. They WANT to give you the most possible, trust me and it's a pain to have to go back and renegotiate... they simply don't have the manpower to do this. The way to find out if you are getting the max is to simply know it. Right now, the max a dependent freshman can borrow in federal Stafford loans is 5,500 total (this is a year). It sounds that is exactly what you are getting. To know the semester amount, just divide it in half. If (after your 1/2 scholarship is paid) you aren't getting enough in loan money to pay the rest then you are responsible for the difference. Your EFC is just a code and does not effect your loan amounts at all. To determine if you are going to have enough to pay for your school, simple FORGET your EFC (again, not relevant info) and it isn't impacting your aid amounts (this is a misnomer and confuses a lot of folks) do calculate if you are going to have enough aid to cover your costs, do this: Calculate how much your tuition and fees will be and then subtract your 1/2 tuition scholarship, then subtract your SEMESTER loan amounts. If you have anything left, this is what you owe. If you don't, then you don't owe anything. If neither of your parents have the cash to help you and are still supportive of you attending your dads place of employment, then they can opt to do a parent PLUS loan. This is an excellent option if they or you have not saved for college. Parent plus loans require them to start making payments immediately. If they are unwilling to do this, then you need to find a cheaper school... your loan amounts are going to be the same no matter where you attend. Find a school that is less than your loan amounts and you will be fine. PS: It looks like full time fall at Ohio State is around $2,034.00 so if you get half paid for, that leaves with only to pay roughly $1,015.00 a semester. Your Stafford loans will be 5,500/2 = $2,750 a semester.... so you will have $2,750.00 -$1,015.00 _________ $1,735.00 you will have aprox this much left over for books, fees, parking, transportation costs... etc.. depending on the terms of dads tuition policy. Again, as you can see... your EFC "what my family can contribute" misnomer is just an old archaic way to confuse folks and make them worry a bunch needlessly. It is also pounded into the ground by other websites by who on purpose make it more complicated than it really is... usually to try to make folks think their sites patrons know more than they really do!! lol
1/2 tuition is great! I wouldn't complain or look for a cheaper school. The 1/2 tuition waiver counts towards your financial aid. Along with loans, you should have a few hundred left over for books and other expenses. Once you complete a few years, you will become eligible for more loans. What you need to do, for peace of mind, is call the financial aid office and schedule a visit with a representative to talk about your options. They know current tuition costs and will be able to tell you if you need to get extra money together. You should do this ASAP as you want to be prepared in a month or so when your fall tuition bill arrives. There may be other options you can look into, such as University loans and private loans from preferred lenders. Also, your parents could take out a loan (although it doesn't sound like they want to) and defer it to when you graduate. If they have bad credit, they can apply for the PLUS loan and be denied, which makes you eligible for $4000 additional in loans. I'm on my senior year at another Ohio state school and in my opinion, it sounds like you have tuition covered. For expenses, you may want to work 2-3 days a week after class and a day on the weekends to save money for books for the next semester and also for spending money. As long as you learn to manage your time well, you'll do fine. Try to fit in studying in breaks between classes and doing homework whenever you have the chance. You'll get used to the workload fast. Also, buy books online if possible, as campus and off-campus bookstores are extremely over-priced. Good luck!
My best guess would either get a job, or check out the school website to see what they have to say. I'm sure they have some programs you can join where you get a loan, or have payment plans so you can eventually pay it off. That's all I can give. My parents were poor so Finacial Aid gives me enough money. Good luck though.
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I hear all sorts of stories...I have a debt that I got when I was 17...the hospital that I had my son at charged me...well after a few years of fighting with them I gave up. I went and consolidated my debt in January of this year...and that stupid bill from 10 years ago ( that I was suppose to be fully covered on medicaid in the first place) is still there...and to make my situation better...the served me at my house last week with a summons...although Ive been making payments to them sence january!!! Should I find an attorney? this is 3000 dollers...plus interest for the past 10 years...
Generally speaking there is a seven year rule for bad debt on your credit report. Second, there are separate laws governing consumer protection from creditors or collectors that attempt to collect an old debt. Below I will discuss this further. This is known as the statute of limitations. However, since you've made payments to the creditor this can restart the clock for the statute of limitations. This may also restart the clock on the credit report as well. You may be better off trying to negotiate a settlement directly with the creditor. Federal law (US Code Title 15, §1681c) controls the behavior of credit reporting agencies. This law is known as the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA). Under FCRA §605 (a) and (b), an account in collection will appear on a consumer's credit report for 7.5 years. The clock starts approximately 180 days after the date of first delinquency on the account. To learn when an account will be removed by the credit reporting agencies (TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian and others), add 7.5 years to the date of first delinquency. Subsequent activity, such as resolving the debt, is irrelevant to the seven-year rule. However, if the debt is a tax lien, that can appear for seven years from the date of payment. A bankruptcy will appear for ten years from the date of the final order. Delinquent federal student loans can be reported indefinitely, i.e., for as long as they are delinquent. Under the FCRA, all trade lines can be reported on each of the credit bureaus. However, the reporting agencies must update and keep accurate data in their credit files. If there is erroneous information (like a collection account, that you believe is inaccurate), you must notify them (typically through a certified letter) and then wait one reporting cycle (90 days) for the errors to be removed. The Federal Trade Commission offers a free online guide to disputing incorrect credit listings . Once they receive your dispute letter, the bureaus will forward the documents to the creditors in question so the creditors can either challenge the dispute or correct the inaccurate listing. If the creditors do not respond, as often happens with old accounts, the listings should be removed from your credit reports. Statute of Limitations All states have a body of statutes in their codes of law called, "Limitations of Actions," commonly referred to as the statutes of limitations. The idea behind these laws is that we as a society have decided that we don't want old debts hanging around forever -- we want people and businesses to be able to move on with their lives without worrying about being sued. The length of time a creditor has to sue you depends on your state of residence and the type of debt. For example, many states allow longer for creditors to file suit to collect on closed-ended consumer loans than on credit card debts. Most states give credit card issuers three to four years to file suit after default, but some states allow as many as 10 years. Check out the Bills.com Collection Laws and Statute of Limitations page. The site I just mentioned has more information about statutes of limitations and a list of limitations by state. If a creditor files a lawsuit after the allowed time, the court will usually throw the case out and not allow the creditor to file suit again (called dismissed with prejudice). However, you must raise the issue of expired statute of limitations in a written response to the lawsuit, or else the court will not know that the statute of limitations has expired. Although the periods vary from state to state, I believe that there is only one (Ohio) that is longer than 10 years. Remember: The passing of the SOL does not mean that a creditor cannot sue you. It means if a lawsuit is filed you should have an absolute defense against the lawsuit if you raise the defense. Also, keep in mind that the passage of the SOL does not prevent a creditor from calling you to collect on the debt; it simply provides you an absolute defense in court if the creditor files suit. I hope this information helps you Find, Save, and Learn. Best, Bill http://www.bills.com/blog
For Credit and finance solutions I visit this site where you can find all the solutions. http://INSURANCEANDFINANCETIPS.INFO/inde...RE :How long can a debt stay on your credit? I hear all sorts of stories...I have a debt that I got when I was 17...the hospital that I had my son at charged me...well after a few years of fighting with them I gave up. I went and consolidated my debt in January of this year...and that stupid bill from 10 years ago ( that I was suppose to be fully covered on medicaid in the first place) is still there...and to make my situation better...the served me at my house last week with a summons...although Ive been making payments to them sence january!!! Should I find an attorney? this is 3000 dollers...plus interest for the past 10 years... 87 following 4 answers
Sounds like you re aged the debt by starting to pay them in January. You should have just left it alone. By digging up this 10 year old debt, you started the clock all over again. That means, it should have only been there for 7 years...when you found it on your report still after 10 years, you could have written to have it removed. Now that you made a payment in January, they can sue you. It won't do any good to get a lawyer. Just show up to court and explain to the judge what you can afford to pay (bring proof of income etc) and hope you can work something out. NEVER dig up OLD debt!!!
Accurate negative information generally can be reported for seven years, but there are exceptions: •Bankruptcy information can be reported for 10 years; •Information reported because of an application for a job with a salary of more than $20,000 has no time limitation; •Information reported because of an application for more than $50,000 worth of credit or life insurance has no time limitation; •Information concerning a lawsuit or a judgment against you can be reported for seven years or until the statute of limitations runs out, whichever is longer; and •Default information concerning U.S. Government insured or guaranteed student loans can be reported for seven years after certain guarantor actions. •Tax liens stay on 7 years from the date PAID. Some other rules to keep in mind: The Statute of Limitations has nothing to do with the length of time something can stay on your credit report, they are two TOTALLY separate things. Again, there is absolutely NO relationship. The length of time a negative mark can stay on your credit report starts from the time you were late or the late payment went into collection, not from the last time you made a payment on the account. Some collection agencies update their reporting status on you to keep the account active with the bureaus to extend the time the account appears on your report. Very crafty and underhanded of them, because most often the account is updated and the period of time the account is active appears to be extended. This is illegal! Challenge this! If you do, bureaus will correctly remove it 7 years from origination. Period. In other words, paying a collection will not keep it on your credit report for a longer period of time. UR BEST BET- CALL THE COLLECTION-AND LET THEM OFFER U A SETTLEMENT.( I OWED MORE THEN 20 GRAND ON MY BANK OF AMERICA--THEY CALLED ME TO SETTLE FOR 6 GRAND) ALSO ASK IF A MONTLY PAYMENT- THEY WILL WORK WITH UR SITUATION-SINCE THEY WANNA GET PAID. OR! GO TOBATTLE WITH THE HOSPITAL. SINCE U METION IT WAS A BIG ERROR ON THEIR PART AND THAT U WERE COVERED BY MEDICAID. AND DONT TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER. THEY ARE IN THE WRONG AND IF U HAVE PROOF THAT U WERE INDEED COVERED AT THAT TIME, THEY HAVE TO TAKE ACTIONS INTO REMOVING THE COLLECTIOS. EITHER BY GIVING U A LETTER, THAT U CAN THEN FAX TO COLLECTIONS, OR SOMETHING ELSE. I PERSONALY WOULD HAVE NEVER HAD THE PACIENCE TO SIT FOR ALL THESE YEARS!I WOULD HAVE GONE OFF ON THEM THE FIRST TIMEI FOUND OUT ABOUT IT, AND IM SURE SOMETHING COULD HAVE BEEN DONE.
It will be removed from your credit report after 7 years of no activity, that mean not calling them, admitting to it, paying anything, etc for 7 years. Since you have been paying it, it is now active. After 7 years of no activity they are not supposed to be allowed to harass you about it, and you should definitely not admit to it. There are free credit counseling services that you should look for. In my area it is called High Plains CDC, and it is a free service paid for through taxes. I would look for them first. Good luck.
Whats the attorney gonna fight for you? You acknowledge you made the debt. The best thing to do is pay them to get them off your back. Try calling your medicaid agency and see if they can go back on it and pay it since they were suppose to pay it to start with, if you were on it. I dont know if that will work, but you can see.
It will stay on your credit until you pay them. I wouldn't bother with an attorney, you will lose.
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Cleveland, and Northeast Ohio in general, is a great place to live! As a bit of background, Cleveland once was considered on a par with Chicago and even New York. While that may no longer be the case, Cleveland definitely is still a great city. For entertainment, we have all the major sports franchises (Go Tribe!), as well as Playhouse Square, where you can catch Broadway-style entertainment. (If you're a parent, all the popular kiddie shows are at Playhouse Square, too.) There is the Cleveland Symphony Orchestra, too, which has its summer home at Blossom Music Center, a great outdoor amphitheater. And Gund Arena, home of the Cavs, is host to many large-venue acts (I have tickets for Tim McGraw/Faith Hill in June! Gund Arena is right next door to Jacobs Field, home of the Indians.) Many other cultural activities exist as well and for the “night club” set there is the waterfront Flats entertainment district with various bars, clubs, etc. If you are into outdoor pursuits, there is, of course, Lake Erie with its great fishing and boating choices, the Cuyahoga Valley National Park (Ohio's only national park) offers opportunities to explore nature, and there are rails-to-trails bike paths throughout the entire state, including one that traverses Ohio's Amish Country, which is just an hour or so south of the city. Food? Don't get me started! Cleveland is one of the original US melting pots, and its culinary choices certainly reflect that. Cleveland's ethnicity is proudly displayed throughout the summer months at many area festivals. Bring your appetite! You also can fill your shopping basket with all kinds of delicacies and ethnic foods at the famous West Side Market (www.westsidemarket.com). I would be remiss if I didn't mention higher education opportunities. There are great small, medium and large colleges in the area, including Baldwin-Wallace, Oberlin, CSU, Case Western Reserve, Kent State and the University of Akron, to name but a few. So if you need to complete a degree or get an advanced degree, you definitely have choices. I don't know where you are moving from, but one other aspect to consider is transportation. I have written extensively on this subject. We here in NEOH are very lucky to have the BEST system of interstate highways in the nation. Period. Moving from Point A to Point B in NEOH is very easy, making a commute from the suburbs to the downtown much easier than in many other major cities. For flying, you can choose from Cleveland Hopkins Airport or the Akron-Canton Airport (a very good choice). Both are very easy airports to navigate. There also is a light rail system that connects outlying areas to the downtown. For example, there is “Terminal Tower,” our most-recognizable landmark, which is right next to the Jacobs Filed/Gund Arena complex. You can do a park-and-ride from the outlying areas to the downtown to catch a ball game or concert. Downside? The inner city. Like many other cities, Cleveland's inner city is very bad. But that's easy to avoid, and does not hinder a person's ability to enjoy all that the downtown has to offer. Another downside to Ohio in general is that our taxes are high. However, the overall cost of living is very affordable and far lower than other major metro areas. Upside: Housing and the cost of living in general is very affordable here compared to other major US markets. Overall, we here in Northeast Ohio enjoy a very high quality of life. If you don't want to live in the city proper, there are numerous small towns/suburbs from which to choose on all sides of the city. I hope this helps!
Cleveland has come a long way up from what it was only a few years ago. There's great theatre there, but that may be of interest only to me, a classical actor. There are towns around it that are kind of swell and old-fashioned and very, very Ohio-esque. It would not be my first choice, honestly, but it's finding a place for itself again. If you don't like it, make it better.
There really is nothing at all good about cleveland. zero! if you HAVE to move there, for the love of God do not move into the city. move into an apt in the suburbs, but never, ever live in the city of cleveland. it is just so disgusting and so bad. it isnt just cleveland though, detroit is also really nasty. i can name a few other places also but wont bore you.
It is a great music town with both the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and one of the best symphony orchestras in the world.
Cleveland rocks, just watch the drew carey show
Ohio State. O H! I O!
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Me and my fiancee are getting married in may. we were hoping to buy a house but i soon found out his credit score..and im pretty sure mine isnt all that great either. The saddest part of it all is he isnt even in debt all that much just by 12,000 or a lil more. anyhoo im just wonderin if theres some place to go to that services in ohio that would possibly do a loan. We need a second chance!
When my husband and I got married 9 years ago, our credit was so bad we ended up getting like a 15% interest on a car loan. I was not knowledgeable about credit scores so I can't say for sure what ours was. We just had really really bad credit. We started making sure we paid on time EVERYTHING and got a credit card through Providian. They give you a second chance. Our credit limit was only $400.00 but as we showed responsibility we got a higher limit and eventually got our score up. I just bought a car and my score now is 746. I am in NO WAY saying put credit on a new card, but putting gas on and paying if off each month goes a long way. DO NOT let it get higher than you can pay off. But it looks really good to have perfect history. Providian was such a big part of us rebuilding our history. Enjoy being newly weds, just rent for now and work on your credit. It will be well worth it in the end. Getting a high interest rate for your 1st mortgage is just not worth it. Congrats and I wish you as much love and happiness as we have had.
Big congratulations on your upcoming wedding. It's an exciting time. I wish our company could offer you a mortgage loan but unfortunately lenders are really cracking down on subprime loans, especially new home loans. 405 is a very low credit score. I advise continuing to raise your credit score at least until it gets to 600 and then apply for a loan.
You need to stop by Linen 'N Things and return that velvet blanket of DENIAL you bought. Your man is a HOT MESS when it comes to finances and the bliss you imagine after you utter the words, "I do", will come to a crashing halt when you realize that his lack of financial responsibility will spill over to your relationship. A 405 credit score is HORRIBLE given that the smallest score you can get is 350!! Let me repeat. A 405 credit score is horrible . . . ugly . . . dilapidated. . . abysmally poor! You man is like a wounded dog looking for someone . . . anyone who will take care of him given his severely compromised state and lack of character in handling his circumstances. It is highly unlikely that he will be able to provide for you when his credit smells like gourmet sanitation. But it is very probable that he will have a mountain of excuses to explain his 405 FICO score. You want a second chance. You already HAVE IT. It's just NOT with MARRYING him in his current state. He is not ready to be a provider in the institution of marriage. His credit score clearly evidences this. And furthermore, you can pitch the whole HOUSE thing -- a 405 FICO score officially places you in public housing (a lot of which is being torn down!). You already know all of this, but since you don't value yourself as you should, you will settle for him -- because you honestly wonder will a better man come into your life. And believe me, sister girl, you are SETTLING for an uncreditworthy and irresponsible man. You couldn't do much worse by yourself. When you realize that you are a priceless woman who deserves to be treated with dignity and respect, you will know exactly what to tell your fiance about the upcoming marriage.
Without 20% down, you won't be finding a home mortgage lender. Pay off your debts, work 2 jobs each to save money, then worry about buying a house. Congrats and good luck.
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At this point I absolutely need to consolidate my debt worth a total of $5,000. However my credit score has taken a severe beating and I have no assets. Do I have any options other than finding a nice bridge on the Ohio River? Is there any agency that perhaps may help me consolidate my debt and help reduce these obscene interest rates?
First....this is a very small amount of debt relative to the debt level of most people who are struggling...so that's something to be thankful for... If you have bad credit, then you cannot qualify for a traditional consolidation loan. One option is entering into a debt management program. Contact your local Red Cross for a referral to the local Consumer Credit Counseling Services (CCCS). They can negotiate reduced interest and payments. They will require you to stop using all credit and to cut up your cards. Your credit report will be updated to "enrolled in debt management." This does not damage your credit, but it may make it difficult to obtain new credit while you are enrolled in their program....so don't use this service if you anticipate applying for a new apartment, car loan or mortgage anytime soon, as you would might be denied while you're enrolled in the CCCS debt management program... I advise against using CCCS if you are drastically past due or have already complete defaulted on most of your credit cards....If this is the case then you are better off negotiating settlements directly with your creditors. You may be able to settle in the 25% - 50% range if your cards are already defaulted. If you settle, get all terms in writing. They will probably want a large lump sum rather than small payments over several years. CCCS will not negotiate settlements because they are funded by the credit card industry. Stay away from any "debt consolidation" company that promises to cut your debt in half through debt settlement....This is a risky tactic of deliberately ceasing all payments to creditors and forcing your accounts into default to attempt settlements. You can never predict how your creditors will respond to the deliberate defaulting of your accounts...they might settle at 50%...or they might serve you a summons, take you to court...and if they win, you could be looking at wage garnishment. Many people who sign up with “debt consolidation” firms incorrectly assume that they have the power to force your creditors to accept settlements...they don’t. Your creditors have the right to refuse settlements and take you to court.
How to consolidate your credit card debt You can consolidate outstanding debt on your credit cards by 3 methods, as discussed below. * Consolidation loan, like a personal loan can help you to repay your multiple credit card debts. * If you wish, you can enroll yourself in a consolidation program and get rid of your debts with the help of a consolidation company. * You can transfer your high interest rate balances to a comparatively low interest rate credit card.
Personally, I disagree with all these people, I don't trust sites and agencies. I would start with the card or whatever with the smallest balance and try to pay that off first, like any extra money you may have (yeah I know right) put towards that to pay it down and get rid of it. then do the same with the next lowest balance. Also, cut your spending:NO eating out, lattes, dont buy new clothes, or go to the Salvation Army, Goodwill, or a thrift store, they also have household stuff like furniture and applicances.
You haven't any longer offered the homestead yet so which you haven't any longer any criminal pastime in the valuables. that's the 1st ingredient to recollect. 2d: creditors won't own loan you $$$ in a purchase order transaction to pay of different debt you owe. they're going to purely provide you the money to purchase the homestead (and at that, the lesser of the acquisition fee or appraised fee). finally you have 5% fairness in the homestead to pass in the direction of a 2d own loan to consolidate your bills. you're able to try this very nearly immedately once you purchase the homestead. many times a lender will say the fee of the home is what you got it for - whether it appraises greater - for the 1st 3 hundred and sixty 5 days.
Contact Take Charge America. They are a non-profit service most Credit Card companies will refer you to.
I found this awesome website and you can find more information,about your question, Take your time to visit ,I hope this helps! the-credit-score.blogspot.com the--credit-cards.blogspot.com secured-credit--cards.blogspot.com
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First, chapter 7 bankruptcy is a last resort. You may not even qualify for chapter 7 and may only be able to do chapter 13 which is the repayment plan. Chapter 7 will discharge your responsibility to pay the debts but it will NOT remove them from your credit report. Individual defaulted debts will remain on your credit report for 7-1/2 years from the date of first deficiency (default). The bankruptcy itself will remain for 10 years and do additional damage to your credit/score. It will be about 2 years before you qualify for most credit cards/loans. You will not get a good interest rate.
For Finance and credit solutions I visit this site where you can find all the solutions. http://personalcreditsolutions.info/inde...RE :Should I file Chapter 7 bankruptcy in Columbus, Ohio? I've heard both sides of the story...that it will adversely (negatively) affect my life and my credit for years to come. I've also heard that it's not that bad and that I would still be credit worthy. Which is it? Please advise. Follow 4 answers
For Credit and finance solutions I recommend this site where you can find all the solutions. http://INSURANCEANDFINANCETIPS.INFO/inde... fiu9pEek5t RE :Should I file Chapter 7 bankruptcy in Columbus, Ohio? I've heard both sides of the story...that it will adversely (negatively) affect my life and my credit for years to come. I've also heard that it's not that bad and that I would still be credit worthy. Which is it? Please advise. Follow 3 answers
For Finance and credit solutions I always recommend this website where you can find all the solutions. http://INSURANCEANDFINANCETIPS.INFO/inde... fiu9pEek5t RE :Should I file Chapter 7 bankruptcy in Columbus, Ohio? I've heard both sides of the story...that it will adversely (negatively) affect my life and my credit for years to come. I've also heard that it's not that bad and that I would still be credit worthy. Which is it? Please advise. Follow 2 answers
You will find very useful this site for finding the best option for you http://www.CREDIT-SOLUTIONS.INFO RE:Should I file Chapter 7 bankruptcy in Columbus, Ohio?
Depending on the type of debt involved, you might NOT be allowed to file chap 7 - you may have to go chap 13, which requires partial payment if any of the debts you want to get rid of are school loans - forget it - they stay with yo until death you will probably need $2000+ cash up front to file for bankruptcy It DOES stay on your credit report for 10 yrs and CAN affect getting some types of credit or getting the best rates for at least 2-4 yrs after debts are discharged
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I know the SOL is 15 years in Ohio. My fiance took out a car loan 12 years ago for $1000.00. He paid off about $200.00 then quit paying on it (he was 18 then, young and unaware of consequences). About 6 months ago, - a collection agency called for the first time and told him that because of interest and late fees the debt went from $800.00 to over $10,000.00 in these 12 years. I'm no lawyer but that seemed absurd to me. They have NEVER reported it to any credit bureau and when he asked them about that, they replied that there is no law stating they "have to." The only thing that makes sense to me is that this company kind of "hid" the debt for several years because of the very long SOL in Ohio so it could rack up fees and they would get more money. Do they have any legal standing to upcharge the debt over 1000%??? I would gladly work with them if they were being reasonable, but the last settlement offer they through at us was in the 7K range. Thanks so much for any help !!!
Of course I'm going to see an attorney.. however it's hard to find a litigation lawyer in my area and the few I've found won't do a free consult. I'm trying to gather information on my own before I work with the collection agency. I feel seeing the lawyer should come afterwards when I have more information. The car actually had some type of short in the engine and caught fire. There was no full coverage insurance so it burnt up, no more car =)
The statue of limitations in Ohio on a written contract is 15 years. Kat - don't know what you mean "civil matter." They are also NOT allowed to report it to a credit bureau as there's been no activity in 7 years. If he were to make a payment, it would reset the clock and they COULD legally report it - so that is a BAD idea!! It's a written contract because he made a signed agreement between himself and a loan company to borrow $1000 for a car. Neither one of us has one single bad mark on our credit report. Both our credit scores are 700+ so going to a credit counselor wouldn't do much good. (I did call one however and all they said this was a legal issue, not a debt issue). What I am hoping to find out here is if they're allowed to HIDE a debt (i.e. not report it on the credit bureau) then wait till 12 years later when they can look at your credit report and see you graduated college - then come after you for 14 x's the amount you owe.
What happened to the car? Was it repo'd? Tell them to give you a break down of the costs, and a copy of the contract. If they can't produce either, they have no case. Chances are they paid pennies for this debt and they're tying to bluff you into paying them. Chances are all the original documents are long lost. No docs, no pay. They can't go to court empty handed...
There is no SOL on civil matters. That only applies to criminal issues. Most likely this debt has been sold and now is owned by this collection agency. They can legally add the interest and fees. HOWEVER, they can't collect on it unless they take him to court and get a judgment against him. Which they won't do because it costs more to do that than what's owed. They'll harass you, but they can't force you to pay anything without a judgement. I suggest sending them a letter via certified mail, tell them in writing that under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, they are not to contact you again about this debt. That won't make it go away, but legally they can't contact you after they receive the letter. But they CAN report it to the credit bureaus, which will negatively affect his credit rating. Other than that, if you've got the money offer them $500 to shut up and go away. They'll take it. Just get it in writing before you give them a dime.
Repos are covered under the UCC, which has a statute of limitations of 4 years starting from the date the vehicle was sold creating the deficency. It appears Ohio has adopted the UCC, so this is likely just scare tactics. There are also certain steps the creditor must take, and if they fail to do so they would lose their right to claim the deficency. Check out the links below. http://www.clelaw.lib.oh.us/Public/Misc/...http://www.independentdealer.com/finance...You might also try visiting NACA.net and finding one of their lawyers in your area. Ask them about repos and the UCC and they may be able to give you more help. One last resource you can use is the forums at CreditBoards.com as there are many excellent posters there that can help you.
Hi, I used "Credit Solution" to settle my debt and avoid bankruptcy.They managed to reduce my debt up to 58%.It's legitimate.I came across this company on NBC News Special Edition.Check it out here: http://redirx.com/?0g4c
Tell them to get filled and which you particularly dispute any criminal accountability to pay. in the event that they pick to sue you, they get their day in court docket, explaining away the fraud, unfair and misleading business organization practices, to not point out unlawful sequence practices.
See an attorney.
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I'm being sued by a company that purchased a debt I owed to a loan company. The loan company had refused to work with the credit counselors, I mean we made an offer, the loan company came back asking for more and we accepted but they then decided to persue collections anyway. I've got all my debt aside from the DMP addressed (federal tax debt) except for this issue. The DMP is working but this civil suit put's all of it in jeoperdy. I spoke to an attorney who thinks I can handle this but I don't agree. He think's I can file the answer, buy some time to build up cash, and make them an offer once a meeting is set up. Other attorney's want to push me to file Bankruptcy. I don't want to do this, I've been trying to get a small business going. Any advice? The debt is $1,100, they want an additional $467 plus interest and legal fees. If they get that judgement I'll have to file Bankruptcy. I'm in Ohio and the case is in Franklin county.
I think I left something out, the DMP (debt management program) is a combination of debt I'm paying off around $10,000 not including the $1,100.00 I'm being asked for. Also, I would have an additional $1,600 in November so I'm looking to see if this is something I can get pushed out until around then and arrange a settlement. This to me is just a situation where I've been working on getting things taken care of and I would have been able to in about 2 more months but before I could get there they decided to go ahead and sue.
I wouldn't file bankruptcy for just oweing $1,100. I owed well over $100,000.and didn't file for bankruptcy.After 7 years or so they drop the bill as a write off.You will just not be able to use credit cards or have any credit during that time.Not sure about when you owe the government,they usually take that one seriously. Good luck.You may not be able to have a business in your name during the 7 years, not sure about that.
At FINANCE-SOLUTIONS.INFO- you can find the best financial solutions RE I'm being sued by a creditor, I'm already in a DMP and don't want to file Bankruptcy.? I'm being sued by a company that purchased a debt I owed to a loan company. The loan company had refused to work with the credit counselors, I mean we made an offer, the loan company came back asking for more and we accepted but they then decided to persue collections anyway. I've got all my debt aside from the DMP addressed (federal tax debt) except for this issue. The DMP is working but this civil suit put's all of it in jeoperdy. I spoke to an attorney who thinks I can handle this but I don't agree. He think's I can file the answer, buy some time to build up cash, and make them an offer once a meeting is set up. Other attorney's want to push me to file Bankruptcy. I don't want to do this, I've been trying to get a small business going. Any advice? The debt is $1,100, they want an additional $467 plus interest and legal fees. If they get that judgement I'll have to file Bankruptcy. I'm in Ohio and the case is in Franklin county.
At SALESQUOTES.information- you will locate the final economic suggestions RE can i nonetheless record for financial ruin after i'm being sued via my lenders? I lost my activity very almost 2 years in the past or maybe till now I lost my activity i replaced into suffering to make the mini um month-to-month charge. After dropping my activity i won't be able to even make the minimum charge and 3 creditor had sue me. Is it too late to record for financial ruin now?
Their some companies that buy other debts from companies that don't want mess with it. They the worst kind my friend had one like that , they called her night and day 5 or 6 times a day. They put your name in a computer and when that computer comes up with your name they call. She finally had to take Bankruptcy because they where driving her crazy , called her at work just day and night .
You're being advised to file bankruptcy over a 1600.00 debt? first, the courts would never allow that. second, it will cost just under 1000.00 (give or take) to file bankruptcy. third, why dont you see when you get to court, if a payment arrangement can be made?
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Okay, we just started looking for homes in are area, the west side of Dayton, Ohio. We've ran across several homes under $30,000 when we go to inquire about the homes the realtors all say the same thing that mortgage lenders won't lend money for homes less then $30,000. They don't really bother to give any other options besides paying cash, which we do not have. I have good credit, he has semi-good credit and we have $2,200 saved. Does anyone have any idea how to get a home loan for $20,000 through $30,000?
Talk to your bank. It's not worth if for a mortgage lender to issue a mortgage for that small an amount. A $30,000 mortgage would result in monthly payments around $100-$200, depending on the interest rate and amortization period. The net cost to you is probably going to be around $60,000 over the life of the mortgage, so really, it's not worth it for you either. Talk to you bank, and try and take out a personal loan. You'll pay a higher interest rate, and have to pay it off in a shorter period of time, but you'll pay less in the end. If you're credit is decent and you're both working, you should be able to pay $500-$1000 a month. You'll own your house outright in 5 years.
For Finance and credit solutions I recommend this site where you can find all the solutions. http://INSURANCEANDFINANCETIPS.INFO/inde... RE :How to get a Mortgage Under $30,000.? Okay, we just started looking for homes in are area, the west side of Dayton, Ohio. We've ran across several homes under $30,000 when we go to inquire about the homes the realtors all say the same thing that mortgage lenders won't lend money for homes less then $30,000. They don't really bother to give any other options besides paying cash, which we do not have. I have good credit, he has semi-good credit and we have $2,200 saved. Does anyone have any idea how to get a home loan for $20,000 through $30,000? 3 following 4 answers
No. however nonetheless there are two refinancing choices if you happen to’re underwater. First alternative is HARP If you meet distinctive standards, your underwater mortgage is also eligible for a refinance via the federal Home Affordable Refinance Program, or HARP. The application permits certified debtors to refinance a mortgage that's from a hundred and five% to as top as a hundred twenty five% of a house's significance. Second alternative: HAMP If you now not most effective have an underwater loan but additionally have ignored repayments, you can also qualify for HAMP, the federal Home Affordable Modification Program, to be had via loan creditors. Browse to get a distinctive resolution.
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I loaned my Ohio single member LLC small business money for start up capital, because obviously it is cheaper than paying interest on a loan. Once the business starts to make money, can I legally pay myself back on the loan tax-free before drawing a salary, or do I have to pay taxes on the payments like a paycheck?
As long as it is set up correctly from the beginning (as a liability Owners Contributed Capital-or something like that, long time since I manually did a balance sheet) and you keep proof of the loan, then yes you should be able to take the money from the LLC without incurring taxes. I'm not sure how Ohio treats their LLCs, but in Michigan they are more like a partnership than a corporation. As such, the profits are passed through to the partners owners & taxes paid at year end. Whenever my husband or I loan our corporation money (all the damn time now-thanks China), I just photocopy the check and put in a file I call "Owner loans to company", then if the company pays any money back to us. I again photocopy the check and write "loan payment" in the memo line of the check. Many businesses fail because people fail to find a good accountant, so do yourself a favor and find one. Stick to the smaller firms and try to find one that shares your tax paying philosophy. Good luck with your business!
I assume your business is not a corporation and that the independent contractor work was done by you. You have constructive receipt of the payment, meaning that if you wanted, you could take possession of this money. It goes on your 2009 tax return.
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I have a few smaller collections debts ($100-$600) from various companies. I had planned on paying them all off next week in one big swoop. However, recently a college debt has left the college and been sold to a collection agency. Now that it is owned by the collection agency, it is due in full instead of payments, and on my credit report it will show a "Non-Payment" $17,000 debt. So the question is, if I know I cannot pay $17,000 dollars in 3 years, should I even pay any of them. In 3 years they will fall off my credit report, and if I pay them early, I will still have a huge $17,000 debt. Can I have something on my credit report saying I am making On TIme payments to a collections agency? Or is it paid in full or nothing? P.S.- I understand that it is my debt and I need to pay it, while I appreciate the moral advice, I do not need for someone to tell me it again. If you do not have advice on the question I have, please refrain from demeaning, negative, or otherwise unhelpful comments about how I should pay my debts. Thank you. (I'm not trying to be rude, but I see people attack others on here instead of answering their questions.)
Generally speaking, when an account is collections and a debtor is making monthly payments the collection agent will not report the monthly payments to the credit agencies. Once the account has been paid off then the collection agent will inform the credit bureaus that there is no outstanding balance. It takes approximately 2 months for the credit report to be updated. Unfortunately, you are incorrect in that your accounts WILL NOT fall off of your credit report in three years. You are confusing the statute of limitations with the FCRA rules. I will explain to you in detail what these two are and how they differ from each other. After I explain the difference between the two I will provide you detailed information of what the collection process consists of. Credit Report Federal law (US Code Title 15, §1681c) controls the behavior of credit reporting agencies. This law is known as the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA). Under FCRA §605 (a) and (b), an account in collection will appear on a consumer's credit report for 7.5 years. The clock starts approximately 180 days after the date of first delinquency on the account. To learn when an account will be removed by the credit reporting agencies (TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian and others), add 7.5 years to the date of first delinquency. Subsequent activity, such as resolving the debt, is irrelevant to the seven-year rule. However, if the debt is a tax lien, that can appear for seven years from the date of payment. A bankruptcy will appear for ten years from the date of the final order. Delinquent federal student loans can be reported indefinitely, i.e., for as long as they are delinquent. Statute of Limitations All states have a body of statutes in their codes of law called, "Limitations of Actions," commonly referred to as the statutes of limitations. The idea behind these laws is that we as a society have decided that we don't want old debts hanging around forever -- we want people and businesses to be able to move on with their lives without worrying about being sued. The length of time a creditor has to sue you depends on your state of residence and the type of debt. For example, many states allow longer for creditors to file suit to collect on closed-ended consumer loans than on credit card debts. Most states give credit card issuers three to four years to file suit after default, but some states allow as many as 10 years. Check out the Bills.com Collection Laws and Statute of Limitations page. The site I just mentioned has more information about statutes of limitations and a list of limitations by state. If a creditor files a lawsuit after the allowed time, the court will usually throw the case out and not allow the creditor to file suit again (called dismissed with prejudice). However, you must raise the issue of expired statute of limitations in a written response to the lawsuit, or else the court will not know that the statute of limitations has expired. Although the periods vary from state to state, I believe that there is only one (Ohio) that is longer than 10 years. Remember: The passing of the SOL does not mean that a creditor cannot sue you. It means if a lawsuit is filed you should have an absolute defense against the lawsuit if you raise the defense. Also, keep in mind that the passage of the SOL does not prevent a creditor from calling you to collect on the debt; it simply provides you an absolute defense in court if the creditor files suit. To learn more on this topic please read http://www.bills.com/blog/charge-off-cre... Now onto what typically happens when an account goes into collections, and what implications this can have. When a debtor stops paying on a debt, a creditor will attempt to contact the debtor on the telephone and via the mail. When the number of days since the most recent payment reaches 120-180 days, the account is no longer considered current and the creditor is required by generally accepted accounting principles to "write-off" the debt. Writing-off a debt does not mean the debtor is no longer responsible for the debt, or that collection efforts cease. The write-off date has almost nothing to do with the statute of limitations for debts. To learn more about the distinction between these issues, read Charge-Off & Credit Report . At the write-off point, the creditor will transfer the debt to a late-accounts department, or has the option to sell the debt to a collection agent. The collection agent will buy the debt at a discount. However, the collection agent has the right to collect the entire balance due plus interest. If a collection agent a debt it states you owe, you have the right to do what is called debt validation . If the debt is many years old or you do not recall the debt, validate it. A collection agent may use aggressive tactics to when contacting the debtor. The collection agent may threaten to call the debtor's employer, file charges with the l ocal sheriff, or say they will park a truck in front of the debtor's house with a sign that reads "Bad Debt" on it. All of these tactics and many others are illegal under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA). Start here to learn the rights consumers have in collections under the FDCPA. A creditor -- a debt collector that owns a debt account is a creditor -- has several legal means of collecting a debt. But before the creditor can start, the creditor must go to court to receive a judgment. A court (or in some states, a law firm for the plaintiff) is required to notify the debtor of the time and place of the hearing. This notice is called a "summons to appear" or a "summons and complaint." In some jurisdictions, a process server will present the summons personally. In others the sheriff's deputy will pay a visit with the summons, and in others the notice will appear in the mail. Each jurisdiction has different civil procedure rules regarding proper service of notice. (See Served Summons and Complaint to learn more about this process.) If you ever receive a summons you should do as it instructs! This is not just a social invitation that you can ignore. In the hearing, the judge will decide if the creditor should be allowed to collect the debt. If the debtor fails to appear, the judge has no choice but to decide on behalf of the creditor. Therefore, if you receive a summons, the first thing you should do is contact the law firm representing the creditor. Open a negotiation to see if they are willing to settle the debt. If not, it would be wise to respond as indicated in the summons. If there is a hearing, attend it and present your side of the story to the judge. Use facts, tell the truth, dress appropriately, and show the court respect. The court may or may not decide in your favor, but at least you exercised your right to be heard. The court may decide to grant a judgment to the creditor. A judgment is a declaration by a court that the creditor has the legal right to demand a wage garnishment, a levy on the debtor's bank accounts, and a lien on the debtor's property. Which of these tools the creditor will use depends on the circumstances. Wage garnishment The most common method used by judgment creditors to enforce judgments is wage garnishment, in which a judgment creditor would contact the debtor's employer and require the employer to deduct a certain portion of the debtor's wages each pay period and send the money to the creditor. However, several states, including Texas, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and South Carolina, do not allow wage garnishment for the enforcement of most judgments. In several other states, such as New Hampshire, wage garnishment is not the "preferred" method of judgment enforcement because, while possible, it is a tedious and time consuming process for creditors. In most states, creditors are allowed to garnish between 10% and 25% of your wages, with the percentage allowed being determined by each state. See Advice on Judgment Garnishment to learn more about wage garnishment. Levy bank accounts A levy means that the creditor has the right to take whatever money in a debtor's account and apply the funds to the balance of the judgment. Again, the procedure for levying bank accounts, as well as what amount, if any, a debtor can claim as exempt from the levy, is governed by state law. Many states exempt certain amounts and certain types of funds from bank levies, so a debtor should review his or her state's laws to find if a bank account can be levied. See the Bills.com resource State Consumer Protection Laws and Exemptions for an overview of each state's rules. Lien A lien is an encumbrance -- a claim -- on a property. For example, if the debtor owns a home, a creditor with a judgment has the right to place a lien on the home, meaning that if the debtor sells or refinance the home, the debtor will be required to pay the judgment out of the proceeds of the sale or refinance. If the amount of the judgment is more than the amount of equity in your home, then the lien may prevent the debtor from selling or refinancing until the debtor can pay off the judgment. Again, every state has its own rules about property liens, so debtors with a judgment against them who own property should review their state's laws to learn creditor can and cannot do to enforce its judgment. See the Bills.com resource State Consumer Protection Laws and Exemptions for an overview of each state's rules. I encourage you to visit the links I have provided for you to learn more. I hope this information helps you Find, Save, and Learn. Best, Bill
If that college debt is any kind of Federal backed student loan, you need to find a way to rehab it immediately. It's possible to turn that around and make it a positive on your credit report. You have to talk to the lender/collector to find out if that is possible. It really depends on the type of loan this is. If this isn't a student loan that can be rehabbed, the collection agency is going to want full payment. Any payment plan would have to be short term, maybe a year if you're lucky and it won't be reflected as payments being made on your credit report. The debt will show as in collections with the entire balance until the final payment is received. In any case, it is very likely that they will sue you over $17K. A judgmetn will further damage your credit. They can use that judgment to garnish wages, attach bank accounts, and lien personal property. Judgments are good for a long time and can be renewed. Also, you should know that paying off derogatory items on your credit report does not improve your score, not does it get them removed. The damage is done and will remain for the balance of the 7 year reporting period, whether paid, unpaid, or settled. I suggest you not worry about those small items and figure out some what to deal with this newest collection. The small items are not going to damage your credit anywhere near as badly as that college debt.
Do not close the accounts unless there are annual fees associated with them. Closing the accounts lowers your "available credit" and lowers your credit score. What you want to do is use each card on a quarterly basis for something small (say around $25 to $50) that you would normally pay cash for. Put the money aside and when the bill comes in, pay it immediately. This does two things - keeps the account active and builds up your on-time payment history. Obviously, if you have extra money, pay down the car payment as much as you can, even if it is only $25 extra a month. This will lower your debt to income ratio faster, which will help increase your score. Take a look at your expenses...is there anything you can cut back on (cell service, cable, etc.). Call the cable company if you have one and see about promotional deals - saving $30 to $50 a month can help bring that car balance down that much quicker. Really really take a look at expenses - do you eat out often (once a week or more)? If so, cut back preferably to no more than once a month until you have everything under control. Try to put money into a savings account on a regular basis (payroll deduction is great for this). Six or more months' worth of income should be in a savings account as emergency - imagine losing your job, this is your lifeline. IN all honesty, it is the accumulation of a lot of little steps that puts you back in the driver's seat when it comes to finances...you just need to identify where you are making expenditures that you really don't need to and then changing your spending habits.
Making payments could prevent legal action against you, so that is something to consider unless you do not have anything of value and won't be working for the next several years. The debt will not fall off your credit report for 7 years after you defaulted. With a collection agency it's pretty much paid in full or nothing. You could try to negotiate with the collection agency that if you make timely payments they have the entry removed from your credit reports, but that's not always successful (definitely worth a shot though!) Your biggest concern should be making sure they don't take legal action. That will get ugly. You should do some research related to the specific laws in your state to see what you can do to protect yourself. Good luck!
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I live w/my boyfriend, and our home is only in his name. we just got a sign taped to our door saying "this property has been levied on by the sheriff of summit county and will be sold at (downtown's court add.). sale date:9/10/10. we had bought our house back in 2003. because of the disease i had gotten in 2006, i started filing for S.S.D., and currently preceding through the very long appeal process (after the 2 previous social security disability denials since becoming permanently disabled-i have a lawyer) which can take up to 2 yrs. after being unable to work for 12 consecutive months. falling behind on our mortgage was the result of my inability to work due to my RSD(Reflex Sympathetic Dystrophy)/CRPS(Complex Regional Pain Syndrome), and the foreclosure later begun. i love our home and am scared, we want to try and save it if possible. now, with the impending sheriff's sale i can't even sleep at night, we have two daughters and a wonderful home and life here. i live in akron,ohio. everywhere you turn in akron seems to be another empty home. today alone, i have spent 3+ hrs. trying to research what we can do to save our home. i'm not sure even with our house not only going through a foreclosure but having a judicial auction will speed up my disability claim to possibly save our dream home. any advice is much appreciated. this is a scary and confusing process and i know time is off the essence.
Your disability claim and your mortgage are 2 seperate and unrelated contracts. Even if you started collecting disability your mortgage and the foreclosure would not be effected in the slightest. Even if they were in your name, but as it is you are not even being foreclosed on, your boyfriend is. It is his home, his loan and his responsibilty to pay for. The auction is 3 months away, you need to come up with the cash to bring the mortgage current or sell the house within 3 months.
Well three years behind in payments, or have you made any at all. I think if they started foreclosing that long ago, and it isn't sold yet it was not in theyre best interest, you have time to request a loan modification, new laws passed but interest rates are low so people will want to buy, no doubt, especially if you have equity. But your probably living on the equity which can't be too much in that short of time. So if you bank with wells fargo, they are really good about working with you, and if your a vet. theres some loopholes for you too. The only problem is they don't really offer too much ideas, you have to dig. Depending on the price and if it is financable with hud, usually it takes atleast 45 days for paperwork to process unless they have cash. Call the attorneys in charge of the sale and find out don't wait, good luck>
The main considered necessary procedures that the people can attempt against worldwide warming is getting rid of their older style automobiles (1979 Buick) as a results of fact, older automobiles emmitt greater poisonous fumes into the air. Its obvious that the greater technological progressed a automobile is, the fewer risky gases it emmitts. A automobile that replaced into outfitted 3 or 4 years in the past would be greater economic equipment friendly than a automobile that replaced into assembled 35 years in the past. for best populated cities at the same time with ny, Bus and Taxi companys ought to replace present day automobiles with automobiles that are powered by making use of hydrogen or electrical energy. basically think of, if each and every considerable city used the Toyota Prius as taxi's, there could be a reduced point of pollutants, and additionally taxi fares must be appreciably decrease besides.
You've waited far too long to take action due to your situation. At this stage, your lender isn't going to listen to your story. Your boyfriend should have applied for a loan modification a couple of years ago, to help cope with the situation. At this stage, it is probably too late to reverse the lender's decision to foreclose. Your only option now is to come up with all the past due payments and late charges. While your illnesses are quite unfortunate, lenders cannot be concerned with such. They have a business to run, and don't listen to 'sad tales'. Good Luck.
Sure, bring the payments up to date. Problem solved. I'm sorry about your problems. But maybe the boyfriend should have stepped up and protect this family by getting a second job.
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I'm looking for a free dermotologist in Mentor, Ohio or Painesvile Ohio. I don't have any insurance and my skin is breaking out bad and don't have any funds to pay a dermotologist because its expensive. Or does anyone know any free insurance like Medicare. I cantt get welfare insurance (Medicare) because I don't have any children and I'm 20. I NEED HELP!!! OR AT LEAST COULD YOU RECCOMMEND ME A DERMOTOLOGIST THAT ISN'T EXPENSIVE, AND IF YOU KNOW ONE YOU KNOW HOW MUCH I WILL BE CHARGED IN CASH?
Ya know how you want to go to school for 20 years and take out $500,000 in student loans only to work for free afterwards, and still pay for your insurance? Yeah, neither does anyone else. Medicare isn't free. You're probably thinking about Medicaid. You're 20. Your face is breaking out. Change your diet, and use soap and water a lot more frequently.
Medicare is not free and it is for people over 65 and certain other disabled people. You mean Medicaid but you have to qualify for that and it doesnt happen instantly. You have to find some money and go to any outpatient clinic and pay a fee. Some clinics are located inside hospitals, some inside medical schools, and some run by the county for low income people. The cost depends on the clinic. You can do a search online for free and low cost clinics in your town. Call them up and ask how much.
Try Lake County Free Medical Clinic 54 South State Street Suite 302 Painesville, OH 44077 Monday - Friday 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Ph: 440-352-8686 Fax: 440-352-8107 email@example.com
Medicare is for those 65 and older There is no free insurance except Medicaid. Find a Free clinic
Medicare is for the disabled and those 65 or older. Medicaid is Welfare. You don't necessarily need a dermatologist because your face is breaking out. You just need to figure why it is and address it (i.e. are you eating different foods, using a different type of face soap, detergent, etc...).
According to possibility you do no longer cost your freedom to compliment an coverage provider (IF i choose to) yet I do cost that. at present I pay adequate out of my TAXES to disguise the uninsured while they walk into the ER. You socialists hate this united states and are against the liberty of selection it stands for! era! playstation : I got here up from a homless individual with basically $150 in my pocket to having an training, pastime, abode, ect so do no longer tell me approximately basically about all those 'adverse' people who've extra (cable, ciggs, booze, drugs, McDonalds...) than any third international united states individual would ever dream of having. I truthfully have been there and seen that. BS!
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We're not covered under Ohio's Lemon Law because we're at 23K miles and it's an 06..however 3 weeks after we bought it, it was back at the dealership and now here we are 3 months into it and it's messing up again (sputters when we take off). We paid almost $17K for this, how can we get out of the loan....I don't want to sell it outright plus probably can't since the market is so poor for Dodge not to mention SUV's. Any Ideas besides a repo?
Repossession is not a really good option. The vehicle will be sold at auction, the proceeds of that sale, less the costs of repossession, transportation, storage, title and sale, will be applied to your loan balance. You will then have to pay any remaining balance. If you do not do so, the lender will file suit against you. A judgment will be issued, and they will attach your pay and seize any bank accounts that you have. Interest will continue to accrue. Your credit will be damaged for at least seven years, and maybe for a lot longer. The thing to do is to find a good Chrysler mechanic. Not all dealership service departments, or mechanics, are created equal. Some are better than others. If you can not find a someone to fix your car, you may want to contact the Chrysler zone office to see if they can help you. If the car is sputtering upon takeoff, it may be as simple as dirty fuel injectors, or it may be a sensor that is bad. It does not sound like a really serious (expensive) problem, once correctly diagnosed.
Did yu buy it new in 06? It does not sound like a lemon. Any car can have an issue at anytime. If ou bought it new it would have had a warranty If at 26000 miles later it had an issue that is not strange. Fix it or sell it.
We are having the same issue with a 05 Dodge Ram pickup that is under warranty that Dodge will do nothing about. We ended up biting the bullet unfortunately. I would stay away from Chrysler products right now to be honest, just from our experience on the 5 trucks we have owned
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A spending spree for three? Knicks, Heat think really big Everyone thought it was a big deal when New York Knicks general manager Donnie Walsh cleared out enough salary cap space at the trade deadline to sign not one, but two max free agents this summer. Not big enough. Everyone figured that when Pat Riley couldn't come up with a game-changer of a deal for the stretch run this season that he was saving up all of his poker chips to get Dwyane Wade an A-list playmate as the grand plan in Miami. Think grander. Think bolder. That's what the Knicks and Heat are doing. Quite simply, it makes no sense to limit your vision or your reach, so the Heat and the Knicks won't. Think LeBron James, Wade and Chris Bosh all together on the same team. That's the play. The Three Musketeers. The Three Amigos. Three-mendous. Call them whatever you want, but there is every reason to believe that the Knicks and Heat will make the calls and make the tries to make that happen. Imagine the scenes when the clock strikes midnight on July 1 ... An executive Learjet, lifts off from a private airport in Westchester County (N.Y.), stuffed with Walsh, coach Mike D'Antoni and enough leftover Wall Street bonus cash to fill Lake Erie, and heads toward a late-night rendezvous in Akron, Ohio. About 1,100 miles away, a Cessna Citation X leaves the Opa-Locka (Fla.) Executive terminal with a Hall of Fame club president at the controls and a co-pilot wearing a long scarf, the goggles of a World War I flying ace and a No. 3 jersey, headed north. Talk about your amazing race. The Knicks and Heat shoot for the trifecta. Why couldn't it happen? Why shouldn't it happen? Some around the league already think it will. If the appeal is supposed to be getting a pair of individual superstars to come together and pool their talents on the same team, then the logical extension -- and the biggest splash -- is to make the same pitch to all three. In Miami and New York, the appeal would be for the threesome to remember the bonds they forged while playing for USA Basketball, where D'Antoni served as an assistant coach, and the dominance that went into winning the Olympic gold medal at Beijing in 2008. If that experience was fun, wouldn't grabbing the entire NBA by the throat for the foreseeable future be a giddy delight? Surely, they'd be able to do that even if every other player on the roster were a minimum salary player. And they would be. The impediment, of course, is the money. Each of them would have to leave something on the table. And, so far, no maximum level free agent in the NBA has ever done that. Still, even if the Knicks were encumbered by Eddy Curry's $11 million, they could squeeze all three in, assuming everybody made a bit of a sacrifice. For James, any location outside of Cleveland will cost him $30 million for the extra year he could get -- according to NBA rules -- from the Cavs. Then you tack on the incremental raises he'd be eligible for and that probably amounts to another $36 million. Hey, $66 million is nothing to sniff at, even if you're already wealthier than a few low level oil sheiks. Yet LeBron is much more of a wild card if you figure that whatever he gives up on the front end of his basketball salary will come back if he adds a few titles to his resume. And isn't it all about the rings more than the other things? And didn't Michael Jordan play for way under his market value, until those last two years in Chicago, in order to let the Bulls assemble the complementary parts around him? Would Wade, who already has one ring, give up part of his paycheck to get another one or five with LeBron and Bosh as the toasts of Broadway rather than risk becoming a wasted spot of spilled suntan oil around South Beach? Bosh has made a few noises, asking why he should be the one to move on from Toronto when he can stay put and be the highest-paid center of the Raptors' universe. Really? Would James and Wade in New York be enough to lure him? As much as there is the appeal for the Knicks to try the triple play, it could be easier to see it happening in Miami. For one, the Heat have to recruit only two outsiders, not three. Then there's the appeal of the South Beach lifestyle. And the Heat have an up-and-comer already on the roster in Michael Beasley. As an inducement, Riley might even offer that if LeBron, Wade and Bosh would join forces in Miami, he could guarantee the services of a Hall of Fame coach. Go to www.nba.com and look for article. Now people will believe me when i say that the knicks are going to get Lebron,Wade,and bosh.read the begining of this question about 3 muskateers or 3 amigos...the article also says that the 3 amigos have already played under mike d'ntoni,in the olmpics for team USA! They all say the like him and would have fun playing for him.They like his aggressive attitude and they like that he will bench players for trash talking or doing foolish stuff du
That wouldn't make sense for the players. Can you imagine the Coach having to pick who gets the winning shot? Bosh, Wade, and LeBron are franchise players that want to get paid at max to lead a team. Sure they could take a big pay-cut and make it up in endorsements and possibly titles but I doubt each want the other's shadow to fall on his legacy. Here is something I read: If Kobe is criticized for not earning his first three championships (I don't believe this) due to Shaq, what about these three? You can make the case that they would be the new Big 3 like Pierce, Allen, and KG but there are significant differences. All three of those players hadn't won a championship and were already in their 30s with declining play.
Errrrr... yeah. Dream on. The fact is, superstar players rarely get along with other superstar players. The Knicks will not get LeBron or Wade or Bosh, much less all three, and the dreamy writings of some NBA.com writer won't change that fact. We fans would like to think that great players would put aside their differences and take less money to put together a superstar team. How often has that happened? In the entire history of pro sports ever? Probably the closest example was the 2004 Lakers, who added stars like Malone and Payton to an already potent team. Egos destroyed that team, and they'd do the same to any other superstar team. That whole article is just pandering to fans of the Knicks or Heat who are hoping to see their teams rebound. It's got no basis in reality.
What up Ball do no longer lie, i think of there are 2 techniques the place we are in a position to evaluate this particularly: (a million) Playoff time- it may incredibly be astounding if those 2 communities face one yet another. (2) next season- the Knicks have basically been mutually for a hand-crammed with video games-- they're nevertheless fath and happy form of like the warmth have been basically some weeks back- we choose greater time to work out if any egos and different issues pop out. i think of the form is that Amare and Billups have on no account been the #a million adult males- and so Carmelo is the clean #a million- even nevertheless Bosh is the clean #3- Bosh, LeBron and Wade have all been #a million adult males- and so. mutually as the Knicks have much less of a propensity for egos to conflict- we choose some greater time and a attainable long dropping streak to work out how they could cope. Nickster
Bosh will pick Miami over New York because of the weather. Spending spree: The Knicks are paying Eddy Curry $11 million next year- one step closer to that Knick dynasty.
Nyk is very lucky to have those players,i am sure they gonna win the rings.for the first tym lbj,have rings.hail the king the weak.
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I recently moved to Ohio and I'm having some difficulty proving my Ohio residency. Yesterday, I succesfully titled my vehicle in Ohio and received a "memorandum of title," due to the fact that I'm still making payments on my vehicle. Is this sufficient (in the BMV's eyes) to establish residency?
This is a L-O-N-G list of acceptable proof of residency from the Ohio BMV site below: ■ Insurance Policy - Any current and valid automobile liability, premises liability, or life insurance policy. ■ Bank Statement - Any checking or savings account statement, including on-line statements, dated within the last sixty days. ■ Child Support Check Stub - From the Ohio Department of Job and Family Services with the name and address of the applicant. ■ Income Tax Return Filing - Copy of federal or Ohio income tax return filing not more than eighteen months old, with proof of filing. ■ Certified Copy of Court Order - Must be court order of probation, order of parole, or order of mandatory release. ■ School Records - Must contain satisfactory proof of identity, Ohio residency, and relationship of the parent or guardian to the child applicant. ■ Certified Statement of Residency - In the case of a dependent child, the Bureau of Motor Vehicles (BMV) may accept a certified statement of residency from a child's parent or guardian, signed in the presence of a BMV official. Satisfactory proof of identity, Ohio residency, and relationship of the the parent or guardian to the child applicant is also required. ■ Certified Statement of Residency - In the case of a married person, the BMV may accept a certified statement of residency from the applicant's spouse, signed in the presence of a BMV official. Satisfactory proof of identity, Ohio residency, and marital relationship is also required. ■ Installment Loan Contract - From a bank or other financial institution. ■ Major Credit Card Bill - Statement – or major retail store credit card statement with Ohio street address. ■ Mortgage Account - Or proof of home ownership. ■ Ohio Certificate Of Title ■ Ohio Mail-in Renewal Notice ■ Valid Ohio Voter Registration Card ■ Paycheck Stub - Issued within the last six (6) months. ■ Professional License - Issued by an Ohio government agency. ■ Property Tax Bill - Or receipt of payment. ■ Hunting/Fishing License - Ohio resident hunting or fishing license valid during the current or previous year. ■ Sales Tax or Business License - Must show Ohio residence address. ■ Selective Service Registration Acknowledgement Card ■ Certification of Residency - From a nursing home or homeless shelter on a form prescribed by the registrar for that purpose. ■ Utility Bill - From an electric, telephone, water, sewer, cable, satellite, heating oil, or propane provider issued within the last sixty days. ■ Concealed Carry Permit - Valid concealed carry weapons permit. ■ Public Assistance Check Stub - Check Stub, food stamp card, or letter on government letterhead (issued within the last 12 months), issued by a government public assistance agency. ■ Social Security Administration Document – With Ohio street address ■ TSA letter ■ Other - Any other genuine and reliable document approved BMV Registrar (not deputy registrar). Note: Additional documentation may be required if the documentation provided is questionable. Contact must be made by Deputy Registrar to the BMV License Control Help Desk for more information.
Almost sure that you might find all financial clarification at= loandirectory.info- RE Proof of Ohio Residency for Driver's License? I recently moved to Ohio and I'm having some difficulty proving my Ohio residency. Yesterday, I succesfully titled my vehicle in Ohio and received a "memorandum of title," due to the fact that I'm still making payments on my vehicle. Is this sufficient (in the BMV's eyes) to establish residency?
For Credit and finance solutions I visit this website where you can find all the solutions. http://SMARTFINANCESOLUTIONS.NET/index.h... RE :Proof of Ohio Residency for Driver's License? I recently moved to Ohio and I'm having some difficulty proving my Ohio residency. Yesterday, I succesfully titled my vehicle in Ohio and received a "memorandum of title," due to the fact that I'm still making payments on my vehicle. Is this sufficient (in the BMV's eyes) to establish residency? Follow 5 answers
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I moved to Cleveland sight unseen about four years ago. Its a very insular city because the vast majority of people who live here are from here, so it'll take time to get to know the locals. I partnered with one and he's fairly gaurded about the lives and history of his friends and family still. Clevelanders are mostly very private. Lots of hypochondriacs, with an economy dominated by major hospitals and stratospheric rates of dramatic medical action and morbidity. The people tend to be thin skinned, passive aggressive, inflexible, pessimistic and lacking in ambition. Did I mention detail oriented to a fault? A veneer of working class identity barely covers the reality of a city where elitism is the norm and connections count for too much. Don't let the negatives get to you though, there are plenty of positives. I've lived in ten states and the locals are, literally, the nicest group of people I've ever met. This has to be the only metro in the country with more than 100k residents where you can expect curteous driving and friendly directions from strangers. Most people here would literally give you the shirt of their back. Though famously divided between "east" and "west", the greater city is an urban patchwork with every conceivable demographic. You should expect every big city cultural amenity and then some. The cost of living is dirt cheap, with high end starter homes in stable, gentrified neighborhoods going for 120 and suburban McMansions selling for less than 250. The locals typically have a witty, dry sarcastic sense of humor which still impresses me. The economy is far better than the news or the locals would have you think and job opportunities can be found in all professions, though the salaries tend to be depressed. The city is compact, with an attention to architectural detail not seen in the modern plate-glass sprawl of faster growing areas. A relatively comprehensive public transportation serves all of cuyahoga county and major traffic doesn't exist on the scale of similarly sized cities. The schools are absolutely horrendous but no one seems to notice and the locals all seem fairly intelligent. Culturally, northeast ohio is decades ahead of the rest of Ohio with loads of out homosexuals living in multiple gay districts and gender equality a foregone conclusion. Dennis Kucinich hails from the area, which should tell you something. You, however, will probably not be living in Cleveland. You'll probably be living in a section of the city called University Circle, an overpriced, pretentious heck-hole filled with rude foreigners and ruder yuppies. You'll be seen as a walking dollar sign by every institution, landlord, panhandler and street prostitute in the area. You'll end up paying $900 a month to live in the top floor of an overpriced concrete box where the temperature is always a suffocating 100 degrees. People will ignore the obvious hints about your past and circumstances to treat you like a spoiled child who farts cash. You'll be afraid to go outside after dark, and the noise from congested, decaying roads will keep you awake at night when the sound of gunshots doesn't. You'll live in this horrible area because U. Circle is practically impossible to reach by road and parking is a myth on par with Atlantis. Rail connections are more practical, with two Rapid stations serving the area, so it'd be wise to test the feasibility of locating near one of them before you settle in The Circle. Lakewood, a nearby suburb, offers superb access to light rail and is plenty cheap. EDIT: Beware the police, they're completely out of control. I frequently joke that the the ratio of cops to people in the city is 3 to 1, but honestly wouldn't be shocked at a number around the lines of 1:10. They're everywhere and they don't care who you are or what you're doing, they're all to happy to follow you, repeatedly question you're motives and generally insinuate negative things about you. One of the local cops is famous for setting the national record for on-the-job kills and it seems that not a season passes without a story of police brutality circulating the news. I've never seen a nonwhite police officer in this city that is 60% black. I've received more traffic tickets in two years of cleveland than the rest of my ten year driving record combined, I've been made to feel like a criminal when i was clearly anything but, I've been treated like a mischevious teenager although I'm clearly nearing thirty...they're ridiculous. The locals say it makes them feel "safe". I can think of better ways to spend my tax money than putting an armed gaurd on every street corner to literally nag people about jaywalking. Cleveland is safe enough.
Im actually from cleveland and in bridgeport ct now but lemme tell you ct compared to cleveland is completely lame. what we do in cleveland is party. Tons of clubs, chillin, going to cedar point, shopping, going to the hookah bars, and its WAYYYY cheaper. I cant even fukcin find a nice nail salon in bridgeport, fairfield, or new haven that charges less than 35 to get a full set of nails with art work and rhinestones. which most places in cleveland are 15-25
If you're going to school there, you'll probably like it. I know quite a few people who moved to go to Case and John Carroll and are really happy. True, you'll run into a disproportionate amount of local people who already have their circles established, but since you'll be in school, that's sort of a "ready made" social mixer, and you'll be able to meet lots of people. The weather is awful, I have to warn you. Cloudy more days than not, very humid when it's warm, and it can still snow into May. I wasn't expecting the weather to affect my quality of life, but if it doesn't typically bother you and you'll only be here for 2 years, you can probably stomach it. The people are generally nice, but you have to make the effort. I'm from the south and people there will go out of their way to make you feel welcome or say hi if you're new or look lost or something. Here you definitely have to take the initiative, but once you do they're pretty nice folks.
Cleveland's a typical city. You have to be really careful because there are dangerous places, and it always good to travel in groups. There is a lot of great restaurants and fun things to do. I really love the suburbs on the West Side. Good luck to you!
I loved cleveland--lived there for 2 years for grad school and miss it...good mix of old and new architecture, right on lake erie so you'll have water views everywhere..definitely very eclectic--go to the west side market its awesome...i lived in lakewood on the west side but i know that the east side has some great areas too like right around case western university
If you are on the right side of cleveland it is very nice, the articture is awesome, we have the rock and roll hall of fame and science musuem. People are generally nice and helpful. Cost of living is not bad either. You will love it in Cleveland.
There are lots of things to do in the Cleveland area. Cleveland is an eclectic community with lots of ethnic food, festivals, and art. It gets really cold here in the winter and we get lots of snow. Here are some good websites to check out: http://www.positivelycleveland.com/ It lists area festivals and entertainment. http://www.cleveland.com/ http://www.clevelandheights.com/commdist... Cleveland Museum of Art http://www.clemusart.com/ - admission to the Cleveland Museum of Art is free for the permanent exhibits Great Lakes Science Center in Cleveland http://www.glsc.org/index.php The Cleveland Metroparks are beautiful http://www.clemetparks.com/ The Cuyahoga National Forest: http://www.nps.gov/cuva Ohio & Erie Canalway: http://www.ohioanderiecanalway.com/ The Cleveland Zoo is cool and residents of Cuyhoga County can get in free on Mondays http://www.clemetzoo.com/ Cleveland Museum of Contemporary Art http://www.mocacleveland.org/ The theaters at Playhouse Square are beautiful and they have great plays. http://www.playhousesquare.com/ The Cleveland Orchestra http://www.clevelandorchestra.com/html/i... House of Blues http://www.hob.com/venues/clubvenues/cle... Look on this website for concerts http://www.clevescene.com/ There are lots of places that have free concerts. If you have any more specific questions, let me know.
Ya gotta be tough.
I hate living in Cleveland. the only thing i do is go to cavaliers games. it's either really hot or really cold so i can never play golf. we don't really have anything for visitors except the rock'n roll hall of fame, football hall of fame and some cool museums.
It isnt a terible place,it has its ups and downs,just dont go to the east side at night
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