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If the democrats are so smart, why didn't they begin to immediately fix the problem when they received control after the 2006 elections? The republicans actually began warning about this in 2003, 2004 and 2005. Both Bush and McCain are on record as providing warnings of this problem. If the problem was visible, or even remote foreseeable, in 2003, then it only makes sense that the problem continued to get worse along the way. Why didn't the democrats start working on this in 2007 or at least by the first quarter or two of this year?
Nothingconstant - Yes, I read all of your post. Your statement that "Loans were given to qualified applicants" is a joke and you have no clue as to what was really going on in the recent past. I propose that you simply use this information to justify your beliefs. This problem wasn't started at the point the loans were sold to the 2nd or 3rd party. How do I know what you obviously don't? I personally was involved in selling several properties between 2002 and 2006 were I wouldn't have lended the buyer a dollar unless I was willing to write it off. Of course, as the seller, I couldn't question the qualifications of the seller without cause, even though I KNEW that each and every one of those loans would end up in default. And guess what? They did. So, the problem was the quality of the loan and the ability of the lendors to claim they were acceptable. So, how does that make your partisan cut-and-paste crap look now.
Neoga illinois - What a lame attempt to discredit my question. Do you even know what a troll is? The facts speak for themselves in regards to who proposed more oversight for Fannie and Freddie, so you are apparently not informed enough to know. That also covers JLC who apparently has his eyes shielded from anything that would go against the liberals who praised Frannie and Freddie all the way down.
Because Democrats were busy CAUSING the credit crisis by insisting that banks give mortgages to people who had no way of paying them. Democrats call this "compassion". I call it abuse.
My answer is going to be long. Will you read it? The world savings in 2001 was 36 trillion. The world savings now is 70 trillion. This is a figure from the International Monetary Fund. Where did all this extra wealth come from? Well societies did better. Abu Dhabi and China for example moved up in wealth. So what happened here was more money chasing the same amount of sound investments. They craved more investments for all this new savings. What looked attractive was mortgage backed bundled securities. The mortgage industry grew. Loans were given to qualified applicants and these loans were bundled by the 1000s and sold to investors. After all qualified applicants were basically tapped out, lending practices begin to loosen. It eventually went into a NINA loan. No income no asset. Mortgage companies still profitted because they would just turn around and bundle these mortgages to sell to investors. So why did all these people put money into mortgage securities? They were rated by bond agencies like Standard and Poore's as AAA which meant as good as money basically. They were perceived to be safe. This is the mortgage side of it.. the other involved credit default swaps (bond insurance) and derivatives. Now doesn't your partisan crap look weak now? Damn dude.. there was nothing partisan in that above explanation whatsoever. I was saying YOURS was partisan crap.
It agree that the credit crunch has been used as a method to gain consent to push forward a conservative economic agenda. This is to do with the fact that big bussiness is calling the shots in the world. The rapidity is due to the fact that people are willing to allow these changes and mergers at a quicker pace because of the sense of economic emergency. Of course in a time of stability this is much more of a creeping process. However as with the credit crunch and the buying up of major firms and increasing costs. The increase in security is related to the sense of crises for western civilisation created by 9/11. The state and bussinesses are powerful forces in society and will always siez oppurtunities to press their agenda.
The credit crisis actually goes back to the Carter administration and the S&L crisis of the '80s. The rough time line goes something like this: Late '70s/early '80s - the government decides to try and reign in stagflation, a problem that itself was caused by failed government policies. They go from artificially low interest rates to artificially high ones and successfully choke the economy further. Carter gets booted out of office and replaced by Ronald Reagan for his miserable stewardship of the economy. 1980s - S&L crisis. Banks fail. The stock market tumbles in the late '80s. Late '80s, early '90s - Upon the recovery of the stock market, the government and lending institutions seem to forget how much things sucked when they made stupid decisions. The deregulation of the financial industry begins at the behest of Republicans. Democrats successfully push through legislation that insures loans to minorities for a perceived discriminatory practice among lenders to only lend money to whites. While it's true that there was some discrimination, what the Democrats fail to realize is that the reason that most of these people were being denied credit had more to do with the fact that they were either unemployed or underemployed and had never paid a bill in their life. Banks lent to them anyway, because if they defaulted, they could get their money from the government. Sure bet! Late '90s, early 2000s - having made a killing lending money to minorities with crappy credit, banks decide that they should start lending money to white people with crappy credit. Thanks to the Republican-backed deregulation of the mortgage industry and a complete lack of oversight on, well, ANYTHING, banks start issuing loans with confusing terms and fluctuating interest rates to people who were just glad to buy a home and didn't really concern themselves with how they'd pay their mortgage when the payment tripled after the teaser rate expired. Oh, and they decided that people with good credit could use their home like an ATM through home equity lines, just so everybody could get in the high debt fun. Present day - because the loans to minorities with crappy credit were made in smaller numbers, when they defaulted, it wasn't in waves and it didn't cause a crisis. But now, thanks to artificially low interest rates, a glut on the housing market has led to tumbling home prices, which means that many people with crappy credit owed way more on their homes than they were worth. Teaser rates start to expire, and, who would've guessed, the people who were deadbeats all their life couldn't make the higher monthly payments. All of a sudden, lots and lots of people started to default on their mortgages. And in addition to a lot of people with no homes, you find that banks are starting to take a hit too, because the outstanding balance on the loan is significantly more than what the current housing market values the home at. Mortgage companies start to flounder, and the securitized debt from these mortgages becomes almost worthless. All of a sudden, the other financial institutions on Wall Street start to hurt, and it leads to a cascade effect. Everybody with a connection to mortgage industry is hurting or going out of business, which means that lending institutions have to shore up their cash reserves to survive - which means lending less, which means that credit is harder to come by. This further chokes off individuals and businesses that have come to rely on credit instead of good old fashioned savings to run. The problem was caused by pretty much everybody in America. The Democrats for encouraging lending institutions to make irresponsible loans to individuals with risky credit, the Republicans for deregulating the industry without putting in any kind of oversight, predatory lending institutions for writing bad loans, other Wall Street firms for buying so much mortgage related debt, and Americans who didn't know how to say "no" to more house and debt than they could possibly afford.
You average citizen has to take their fair share of the blame too. Many people got into houses bigger than they could afford, living beyond their means, charging their credit cards up to an amount they couldnt afford. Now many people are in their houses upside down, letting them foreclose and figuring they will just buy again. People are not responsible with their money. There is no independence so important and no dignity as impressive as living within your means.
Because the democrats didnt want people's feelings to be hurt when they got denied for a house. they want everything to be fair (communist), as Biden's debate clearly showed the other day. + the democrats were making huuugee bank for keeping their mouths shut. Obama has gotten a ton of funding for his campaign by Fannie Mae.
If you think it's bad now, the Obama Democrat hand outs have only just begun. Free houses, free cars, free trips to Cuba.
Greedy banks - practicing deceptive predatory lending - in order to fatten their swine-ish wallets... If anyone truly understands what a "derivative" is, they will understand.
Obama/Biden 08, 12.
Deregulation and no oversight. Republican ideas - they'll fail you every time.
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The answer above has a clearly Republican bias, so to retort: The Democrats have traditionally been for equal rights, fair pay, and work-related safety for all citizens. They have been the lead proponents of a strong educational system and programs to help educational and career advacnement of those who lack the resources otherwise. Many Democrats are also pro-choice when it comes to abortion, favor gun control, and are the leaders when it comes to environmental conservation. They almost always favor diplomacy before war and strive to make allies with other nations when possible. Over the last couple of decades, the Democrats have also favored more responsible spending than the GOP, which used to have that reputation (President Clinton was faced with a large deficit after George Bush I, but left the nation with a national surplus after his two terms in office. This surplus was not created by tax dollars, but by making loans to other countries such as Mexico and collecting millions on the interest. After Clinton, the current President Bush Jr. eliminated the surplus almost immediately, and now the US is trillions of dollars in debt to Communist China, with the interest growing every day). The Republican Party claims to be many things, but more than anything else they are the party which supports big business and the wealthy. Their aim has consistently been to keep taxes low for the wealthiest in this country and to remove restrictions to the way business is conducted. They are usually against public education and jobs programs, and they have consistently voted for legislation which would allow businesses to make more money by sending American jobs overseas. As they would never win an election on this platform alone, they have adopted exclusively Christian faith-based agendas, a strong emphasis on patriotism and nationalism, and strongly favor beefing up the military. These platforms exist to gather votes from many mainstream Americans who are strongly religious, part of the military, and usually conservative, but who would not vote for the party of big business for any other reason. If you are trying to decide on which party to vote for, here are some reasons why I am voting Obama: -Obama passed legislation with Republican Senator Jim Talent to give gas stations a tax credit for installing E85 ethanol refueling pumps. The tax credit covers 30 percent of the costs of switching one or more traditional petroleum pumps to E85, which is an 85 percent ethanol/15 percent gasoline blend. -After a number of inmates on death row were found innocent, Senator Obama worked with law enforcement officials to require the videotaping of interrogations and confessions in all capital cases. -His first law was passed with Republican Tom Coburn, a measure to rebuild trust in government by allowing every American to go online and see how and where every dime of their tax dollars is spent. -Obama created the Illinois Earned Income Tax Credit for low-income working families in 2000 and successfully sponsored a measure to make the credit permanent in 2003. The law offered about $105 million in tax relief over three years. -Obama joined forces with former U.S. Sen. Paul Simon (D-IL) to pass the toughest campaign finance law in Illinois history. The legislation banned the personal use of campaign money by Illinois legislators and banned gifts from lobbyists. Before the law was passed, one organization ranked Illinois worst among 50 states for its campaign finance regulations. -As a member of the Veterans' Affairs Committee, Senator Obama has fought to help Illinois veterans get the disability pay they were promised, while working to prepare the VA for the return of the thousands of veterans who will need care after Iraq and Afghanistan. -He traveled to Russia with Republican Dick Lugar to begin a new generation of non-proliferation efforts designed to find and secure deadly weapons around the world. -Obama has been a leading advocate for protecting the right to vote, helping to reauthorize the Voting Rights Act and leading the opposition against discriminatory barriers to voting. - In the U.S. Senate, Obama introduced the STOP FRAUD Act to increase penalties for mortgage fraud and provide more protections for low-income homebuyers, well before the current subprime crisis began. -Obama sponsored legislation to combat predatory payday loans, and he also was credited with lobbied the state to more closely regulate some of the most egregious predatory lending practices. -Barack Obama introduced the Patriot Employer Act of 2007 to provide a tax credit to companies that maintain or increase the number of full-time workers in America relative to those outside the US; maintain their corporate headquarters in America; pay decent wages; prepare workers for retirement; provide health insurance; and support employees who serve in the military. -Obama worked to pass a number of laws in Illinois and Washington to improve the health of women. His accomplishments include creating a task force on cervical cancer, providing greater access to breast and cervical cancer screenings, and helping improve prenatal and premature birth services. -Obama has introduced and helped pass bipartisan legislation to limit the abuse of no-bid federal contracts. -Obama and Senator Feingold (D-WI) took on both parties and proposed ethics legislation that was described as the "gold standard" for reform. It was because of their leadership that ending subsidized corporate jet travel, mandating disclosure of lobbyists' bundling of contributions, and enacting strong new restrictions of lobbyist-sponsored trips became part of the final ethics bill that was signed into law.
Democrats are more pron to allow abortion. Favor the big brother/government mentality which means higher taxes/stealing more of my money. They believe the means justifies the end. That if just one person is saved regulations are worth the expense, consequences and effort. Most Democrats are liberal/excessive fiscally. They are wishy washy in their core values. Republicans are more likely to protect the country from foreign threats than to coddle them in the name of PC/political correctness. Republicans believe each person should pull themselves up by their own boot strap but will show you how to do it rather than give you a free hand out. They believe a person has the right to defend home property and life. Most Republicans are fiscally conservative. They are rooted and know their core values which are often more traditional. That's just some basic examples.
I was wondering much the same question
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Ok this is a little long but please bare with me. Also, this obviously wont be my deciding factor so dont like yell at me saying its my choice bla bla bla i know that. i just like to see what other people would pick. So let me start by saying i currently live in Illinois but my parents are moving to Arkansas after I graduate. I got accepted to both of these schools so its just a matter of enrolling. Choice A: University of Arkansas. This is about $3,000 cheaper than choice b but my family is a little short on cash right now so it makes a difference. Also, it would probably be nice having my family's help during my first year of college. My whole family lives down there too and it would be nice being able to see my little cousin a lot. Um.. I'd get to have my car but i wouldnt be able to play tennis and i'd be far so i couldnt visit much. Also, what is there in arkansas? Are there even cute boys? I just imagine it full of like hicks... Choice B: Roosevelt University. This is in Chicago which is amazing all on its own. It's so close to Lake Michigan and the views are awesome. I would LOVE to live in Chicago..it would be so cool. As i said, this is slightly more expensive. I would most likely be able to play tennis there though. Also, since it is in the city, they don't have student parking which would cause a dilemma in going to visit my parents. I'd be able to visit my friends a lot though... I dont know what i want to major in yet so that doesnt affect anything...so yea in saying allll this, please let me know which you would decide
To me, personally, Roosevelt University sounds better. I prefer an urban environment over a rural environment. I've been to Chicago before, and it is a great, big city with lots to do and all different types of people. I wouldn't worry too much about the cost, you can apply for financial aid, or open up loans. I can't really speak for Choice A, I've never been to Arkansas. But I would imagine that it would be mostly white "hicks". Not much diversity if you know what I mean. However, if you truly want to be near your family, then you should consider choice A. Best of luck to you, I'm a senior going to college next year as well, this is an important choice.
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I am going to transfer from southern illinois university carbondale to columbia college in chicago. Pending some staffard loans I need 4000 more in loans. My mother is filing for bankruptcy and I while having some credit, dont have great credit. I want to get a private loan to pay the rest of my school and pay for an apartment in the city Where is the best place to get a private loan (in a check not straight to school)? And do you think I can get it
I'd recommend talking to a bank with whom you already hold an account and ask them what the possibilities are of getting a loan. And whether or not you can get it depends on how much you already owe and how much trust the bank has in your ability to pay it back.
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I want to buy a house as soon as possible. It is my number one goal and it is constantly on my mind. Let me give you a little background. I'm a 20 year old male. I work full time and make around 17,000-20,000 a year. I work full time. I do not have a car payment and I do not have a whole lot of credit. I'm a very good saver and have 5,000 saved in my bank account and roughly 5,000 in matured savings bonds that my mom has stored away for me when the time is ready to buy. My only problem seems to be the credit. It was like pulling teeth to get a credit card. I eventually went through my bank and got one with a $500 credit limit. I've had it for 2 months and use it responsibly paying it off in full at the end of the month. I also have two $2,500 student loans I have been paying back on. I recently decided that it is in my best interest to pay these off before buying the house to get more of a credit history and save myself from having a loan payment when I'm on my own. I have one of the loans paid down to $1800 and plan on having that paid off before I get my tax return (around $2,000) and beginning of year bonus from work (around $1,000). The taxes and bonus money will pay my other loan off and I will be debt free by February and still have around $5,000 in savings and $5,000 in bonds. I plan to save for a few months after the loans are paid off so I can have a solid $8,000-$10,000 to play with for down payment and still have a couple thousand left over for any repairs/making the place my own. I already have all the furniture, pots/pans, dinnerware etc. and washer and dryer so I'm set in that area. So if you are still with me after all this being said, do you think I will be ready to buy a home in 6 months this summer? I wanna buy in the 30-50K range. Lenders in my area will lend a minimum of 30k. Opinions, Input, and advice is greatly appreciated!
To weirddiscom...... I live in Southern WI. Close to Illinois border, I could walk to Illinois. Its right between chicago and milwauke and madison. Economy is absolutely horrible here and the housing market is down because of forclosures. The area depended on a GM plant that closed and destroyed most of the jobs around here. I luckily have a stable economy proof job. houses go for as cheap as 15k in rougher areas.
Wow. You're lucky. Where do you live? As I was reading your post, I kept thinking, "There is no way that this kid is going to be able to afford a house for at least another couple years." Then I got to the end and found that you are looking at houses that are 30-50k -- that is probably about the same amount as the expected DOWN PAYMENT for a house in my area. So you must live somewhere where the houses are a lot less expensive. Kudos on choosing an affordable town to live in! I think, with the amount that you will have saved by this summer, you would have enough to buy a house in the price range you mentioned IF (and ONLY IF) the houses you are looking at in that price range do NOT have a lot of repairs that would need to be made right away. Make sure that you are checking out their specs and GET AN INSPECTION for sure. You want to know up front what is wrong with the house and what kinds of repairs you would need to take on. At least here where I live, there are required "repair or replace" items on any inspection -- meaning that if you buy the property, you have 6 months to prove that you fixed anything that was wrong with it or not up to code. If you don't fix the things that you're required to fix, the city can take your house or you can get steep fines. So, I guess my point is, you will probably have enough, but you will need to be VERY frugal with your money, and VERY careful when purchasing a property. Don't forget about utilities! As a renter, you probably don't pay for water, trash pickup, recycling, heat, etc. Renters usually pay for electricity, internet, and cable, but not their other utilities. So make sure that you are prepared for all the expenses of owning a home -- aside from the mortgage and the repairs. Owning a home can get VERY expensive. EDIT: Sorry that your town's been hit so hard by the economy. Seems like a nice location, though -- being so close to Chicago, Milwaukee and Madison....do you live in Janesville?
It sounds like you're in pretty good shape and planning things well. Good for you. My only concern is the newness of your credit. If you have trouble getting a loan at the bank, you might try a mortgage broker. You may have to pay a bit higher interest due to your lack of more credit, but rates are so low now that probably won't impact you too greatly. Make sure you get a fixed rate with no prepayment penalties. 30 year mortgage is the norm these days, but you can save a ton of interest if you can swing a 15 or 20 year loan instead. Also, consider this: Rather than a single monthly payment, do a half payment every two weeks, especially if you get paid on that schedule. This can save you interest in two ways. It reduces the monthly interest because interest is computed on a daily basis. It also reduces principal more quickly because 26 half payments is the same as 13 full payments made over a 12 month period. It's little bits here and there, but it adds up over the course of a mortgage. Good luck.
The only thing I would like to add is that if you are on your job for two years or more you should be able to get a house in the range that you want. This is especially true for FHA financing. I would also suggest that you monitor your credit score, something around 650 might be good enough. The bad news is that mortgage fees are still going to be high on any home as they have to charge you for appraisals, origination fees etc. Continually check around your area for who has the lowest fees and rates without allowing anyone else to do a credit check until you are ready to buy. I also would suggest NOT paying off the student loans but instead have more cash to bring to the table on the purchase. You can deduct student loan interest no matter what the amount, whereas you have to itemize to deduct your mortgage interest, something that you are unlikely to do at your salary level. Continually paying the student loans on time will help with your credit score as well. To sum it up, save as much cash as possible, pay everything you have loans on now on time, do not apply for too much new credit.
You need a fico credit professional on your side someone that does not charge any fees upfront until you see results provides you education and shows you the banks and credit reporting agencies are not on your side the longer you have bad credit the more money they make and for you to understand there is so much more than writing a letter most of the people on here do not have accurate knowledge on how the game really works There are tools out here that have been proven that can change your life for the better. I can prove and back up everything I say Uon paper and show proof in 2010! it could take months to fix your problem not yrs hit me up if you would like to chat more Sincerely Financial Freedom
I think which you men are waiting. don't be scared to make that pass. Your funds is being wated on lease at this factor. do exactly no longer rush. make useful , I recommend useful it is the homestead which you quite need. in case you men are making plans on having greater babies, make useful your place is sizable sufficient. you might have much greater responsibilty than renting and it may get stressfull with sources taxes and maintenance. Have an account set up for the housing costs mutually with maintenance. desire this helps.
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The best way to accomplish what you are attempting is to purchase a 1-4 unit complex. You should live in one and rent the other two. This can also be done on a smaller scale with a duplex. Purchasing a duplex or 1-4 units is considered the same as purchasing a single family home. You will get a lower interest rate since this will be your home and the tax write off on the other 3 units as rentals. Please consult your tax consultant about any tax related items, as well as your attorney about any legal related matters. You might be qualified for first time home owners assistance through your city for the purchase of a duplex or 1-4 units. There are FHA loans available to these type proprieties also that you could qualify for. FHA has loans for as little as 3% down. After you have done this for 2-3 times you will have rental properties with low interest rates and tenants to pay the mortgage. Then you might consider moving into your single family home. You should look in your local papers for properties that have distress sales, foreclosures and other type properties for bargains. Look carefully they are there. In order to find out the type of loan programs you are qualified for you will have to fill out a loan application, with a mortgage broker, which you can find one in your local telephone book. Make sure this mortgage broker or mortgage banker is able to do government loans such as FHA and VA loans if you qualify for one. He will fill out this application, which takes awhile so grab your favorite beverage and sit down. Once you have completed the application, he will run your credit report which will have your credit scores. These credit scores will determine your interest rate. The amount of your monthly debt payments you are required to pay as per your credit report and the amount of mortgage you can take on based on your income will determine the amount of house you will be able to purchase. When you speak with the mortgage broker you will need the following documents to complete the loan application, there will be others, but this will get you started. #1 One month of pay stubs for each person that will be on the mortgage. #2 Six months bank statements from each bank in which you bank as well as statements from any 401K from you place of employment. #3 Two years of federal income tax along with the W-2 that match. Once he has all that he need to do he can then issue you a pre-approval letter so you can purchase a home. In this pre-approval letter will be the amount of house you are qualified to purchased. Once he gives you this pre-approval you may now find a real estate agent to find yourself a home or he might have a referral. Now make sure before you get your pre-approval you and your mortgage broker go over all your options as to the mortgage programs you qualify for, the interest rate, monthly payments. If you are getting a FHA, fixed rate, two loans to eliminate PMI like an 80/20 or one loan, if you are qualified for and approved for a 100% loan. You should select the loan that best suit your financial condition at the time. That could be an adjustable rate loan. It could be a fixed rate loan for 5 or 10 years and then adjust. Some adjustable rate mortgages only adjust once. Make sure your mortgage broker explain all your options so you may make an intelligent decision. What might be good for one person might not be good for you, in other words just because your friends and all your real estate buddies are telling you about the great fixed rate they got, your financial situation might call for something else. So select the best option for you and your financial situation. You should also get a Good Faith Estimate (GFE) which will indicate the cost you will have to pay for getting this loan. It will also indicate the amount of your down payment. Once you have found a home the real estate agent will then prepare a contract for you and the seller to sign. Your mortgage broker will now order an appraisal to show proof of the property value. The mortgage broker might ask for additional information or documentation, don't get all up tight this is normal, just supply the information or find the documents needed. After the appraisal has been completed you will be called by your mortgage broker to sign your loan docs so you can take possession of your new home. Before signing any loan docs make sure they say exactly what you and your mortgage broker went over when you decided on what mortgage program was best for you. I hope this has been of some use to you, good luck "FIGHT ON"
Go to www.countrywide.com Click on the link at the banner at the top that reads purchase. Then look for a link that reads REO. This is the REo screens of all bank forclosed properties. It can be sorted by state. In Illinois, then you can see the property types srf, condo, 2-4 units. Look for a good 2-4 unit. You are best finding a 2 unit that will be the easiest to get financing for. You should live there for a little bit in order to buy the property owner occupied and so you can get the best rate. I hope that this helps but check out the website.
Rent To Own Homes - http://RentToOwnHome.uzaev.com/?SBci
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My husband and I were just recently married. He has a good job for this area (small town Illinois), well above the average pay and I am just staying at home right now taking care of our small child. I ran into the bank manager today and she talked to me about applying for her part time position she has available. Basically I have the job if I want it. I am considering taking it just to get out of the house, and also I am wondering if it would have any influence in the future if we try to get a first time home loan? I have never even looked into getting a loan, as my credit is not that great at all, neither is my husbands. But if I do take this job we plan on living below our means for the next couple of years, pay off as much debt as possible, then try to get a loan. what are the factors they consider? is there a minimul credit score you have to have? does working for them for say, 2 years have any leverage? And in two years my husband would have had his job for 3 years if that matters. Thanks for the responses:)
~~Working there will not make a difference. You will have to qualify just like every other applicant.~~
They can't give you a loan or consider you for a loan because you work there. What do lenders look at? Your credit. Do you have good credit? Do some research on this. There are better ways to pay your debt off than others. Some ways increase your credit faster than others. Your ability to pay off the house. Have you had stable employment? Either you have worked somewhere for a length of time or you've stayed in the same field even if you've switched jobs. You have a good debt to income ratio and money in savings. Save money for a down payment, 10% of the purchase price is ideal but 20% is better if you have low credit. I would personally suggest going to Mortgage Loan Originator to get the best deal. If you go to a bank then you get what that bank is willing to give you whether it may or may not be the best deal for you. If you go to an MLO and fill out an application they will tell you if you are approved or denied and either way you will get paperwork showing what you qualify for, etc. And then you can bring that around to different MLO's to get the best pricing. Once you've found an MLO remember they have a fiduciary duty to you, so they are working for YOU not for the lender to find you the best deal. But do your background on the company you're looking at obviously. Also, working anywhere for 2 years is going to help you secure a home loan. You don't get a 'better loan' because you work for a bank - that's pretty illegal. I would suggest a couple books for you to check out from the library as well. -Mortgages For Dummies -Mortgages 101 -The Pocket Mortgage Guide -Home Buying For Dummies Do yourself a favor and don't let ANYONE lead you blindly through such a huge purchase. If you want to truly own your home take it in your own hands. Learn what you need to know about it. You should be familiar with the basic terms, your own credit score and how it's figured, etc. It's worth doing the research on mortgages and on different lenders so you get the best deal and you find a trustworthy MLO unless you like throwing your dollars down the toilet of course.
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First congrats on getting married. Unfortunately, just being employed at the bank will not help. I work as a senior teller at a bank and two people who work in this bank have applied for home loans and have been denied. One works as a CSR and the other a BSS (a BSS is similar to a bank manager) They still go by your credit rating. One has worked at this bank for 6 years, and the other 8 years. Now, I am only speaking from experience and it might just be in my state.
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Married filing jointly vs. Married filing separately? We live in Illinois and are going to be married next July. She has 4 kids from a previous marriage of which her and her ex split the children where she files 2 as dependents and he files the other 2. She has a school loan and a very modest salary for which she is / was getting some kind of tax credit for being a single mom with a low income. As for me, I have a simple W-2 and a mortgage for which I pay interest and pay property taxes. My soon-to-be wife and I have always kept our finances totally separate and are trying to figure out if we should file separately or jointly...that's the first question. We know that some Obama tax break(s) that she got are now expired, so (because of that) we are being told that our tax return filing jointly will be lower than they have been in years past. I guess what I'd like to know is if we were to split our tax return dollars, should I expect my share of the split to be the same as I have in years past with her taking the remainder? In other words, if she used to get a return of $6k while I got a $3k return and our total return is now reduced to $5k total after filing jointly, should I still expect to take $3k while she takes $2k?
WOW Bostonian...I'm impressed. I don't really know how to automatically notify you that I have edited this, so I'll just do it and hope for the best. BTW - Thank you so much for taking the time. To answer some of your questions, my fiancée and her 4 girls live with me and she does not pay rent or handle half of the household expenses. She earns like $25k on a W-2 while I earn about $65k on a W-2. If it matters, she gets about $1800 / month in child support. I am the sole owner of the home and pay the mortgage, utilities, etc. She handles all the expenses for the kids. To correct myself, she went from about $6k last year to $4k this year in income tax refunds having something to do with her student loan. Actually, that might have been because she finished school and actually started paying the student loan for which she pays regular monthly payments over what they ask as well as random chunks here and there to speed up the payoff. To be honest, we kind of like havi
Sorry, for some reason, my response got cut-off above.... To be honest, we kind of like having a surplus of money each year at tax time. Hopefully, it doesn't make a difference in the ratio of the split to each of us in your analysis if we maintain our surplus. But if it does make a big difference, I'd like to hear your what you'd suggest to get closer to even (for example, going to my H.R. mgr and re-doing my W-4 to claim 1 or 2 or 3 or whatever). And again, ultimately, I would like to know if there is an actual difference in what my return is / will be from Single Filing vs Married Filing Jointly as it pertains to my return. And if it matters to you at all (you and I don't know each other) but I am doing this for her. We do for each other. She's happy that I take care of her and the kids in terms a safe, reliable place to live and she does her best to not make the children be any kind of financial burden on me (which is unnecessary, but nice of her) when
If my edits are cutoff above, sorry. I sent them in full directly to Bostonian. Here's some more answers for NA. Yes, she is currently filing as single and claiming 2 of the 4 kids. No, she is not filing HOH. Since we've been together, we've used the same tax person who would never do that. "There is another credit--the child tax credit/additional child tax credit that will still be in play, but she only gets it if you claim the child(ren) on your joint return." Is there any reason we wouldn't? "As for the student loan, is she on an income based repayment plan? Is she making all of her payments or did she go into forbearance or arrears (aka didn't pay at all)?" She pays a fixed amount, not based on income and never missed a payment, never filed an extension or deferment of any kind.
Is Illinois a common law marriage state? Unless your married either thru common law (if your state permits it) ok and ks are two states that I know allow it. Or if your married with a marriage license you can file jointly. Otherwise I haven't read anything before that allows you to file jointly. Hopefully this helps a little bit. Good luck and congratulations on getting married!
Edit, Boston will be back, he's good about that. As for the additional information. Your GF *has* been filing as single, right? If she has been claiming HOH when you pay for everything, she needs to amend immediately and pay the extra money back. If you get married, your combined income of $90K is too high for EIC. There is another credit--the child tax credit/additional child tax credit that will still be in play, but she only gets it if you claim the child on your joint return. When she signs the form 8832 to let the dad claim them, the CT/ACTC goes with the form. As for the student loan, is she on an income based repayment plan? Is she making all of her payments or did she go into forbearance or arrears (aka didn't pay at all)? If she's on an IBR, the amount she will pay per month will go up as the MFJ return uses the joint income to determine the amount to pay. If she files MFS (no EIC there), the IBR is based on her income alone. If she's paying is a deduction on the return.
Once you get married you don't have a choice, other than the joint or separate, and filing separate disallows the EIC credit, you also both have to use the same method, standard deduction or filing Sch A which obviously you owing a home claim mortgage interest and property taxes(which she would not be able to claim) once you are married her children become yours on the tax return for those children who spend the majority 'nites' with you--and that is the IRS rule whether the divorce decree states it or not if your income is within the EIC limits, of course you will have that credit, the child tax credit for each child in the household under 17 applies to your income tax liability, any unused amounts are carried forward to an 'additional' child credit the child support is not income to her, and it hardly provides more than 50% of the support of the children, if she is paying her student loan, the interest is a credit to reduce the gross income
When children are involved, filing Married Filing Jointly is always the better bet. In over 40 years of tax practice, I've never seen it go the other way. The large refunds that she has been getting (none of which have expired by the way) are due to the EIC and the Additional Child Tax Credit. If all of the kids live with her, she would file as Head of Household if she paid more than half of the cost of maintaining their home and would max out the EIC at 3 children even though she's only claiming 2. Giving up 1 or 2 to her ex probably didn't cost her a dime, or if it did, it was not much. Once you marry, any EIC will be based upon your joint income. You have not given enough detail to estimate if you will still get any or what it might be. It will cap out on the sunny side of $50,000 but at that level it will literally be pocket change. To claim any EIC at all requires that you file Married Filing Jointly. If you file Married Filing Separately the EIC is denied by law automatically. If you don't have any children of your own and have been getting refunds of $3,000 you have been having MUCH too much tax withheld from your pay. There's simply no excuse for that. You've been lending Uncle Sam nearly $60 every week to get that refund. If you would get $5k on a joint return and your combined income is more than about $30,000, you're both having WAY too much tax withheld. That's $100 a week that you then have to wait upwards of a year to get back. Post the real numbers from both of your 2012 returns and we can do a more detailed analysis as well as tell you what to put on your W-4s once you do marry. The goal is not a large refund but to come out as close to breaking even as possible. A married couple claiming 2 kids won't pay ANY federal income tax until their combined incomes are on the sunny side of about $48k in 2013. Even when you do you're only looking at 15 cents of every dollar above $48k until you're on the sunny side of $81k or more. Edit: Only have a couple of minutes now but I'll pop in later with some more. Filing a joint return with $90k of income and 2 dependents under age 17 as of the end of the tax year (using 2013 numbers which will be close enough for planning purposes for 2014) and the standard deduction leaves you with taxable income of $62,200. The tax on that is $8,438 and that is reduced by the Child Tax Credit of $1,000 per child for a net tax of $6,438. Apportioning the tax between you based upon your incomes, if you file your W-4 as single (or married but withhold at the higher single rate) and 7 allowances, you'll pay in $4,878 of income tax. She files hers as single + 2 allowances and pays in $1,804. That will leave you with a refund of $244. If you want a larger refund, each allowance that you drop will increase your joint refund by about $950. Each that she drops will increase it by about $575.
And by next July 2014 a lot of things can and probably will change before the planned marriage during the next tax year 2014 and then during the 2015 tax filing when you would still be legally married on December 31 2014 you would have make your choice at that time in your life MFJ or MFS OK. MFJ is a 50/50 refund amount OK at that time in your life. MFJ is usually the most beneficial way when you are qualified to do so as of the last day of that tax year December 31 2014 for the 2015 tax filing season of the 2014 FIT return. OK still along way away for this purpose and time in your life OK. You will generally pay more combined tax on separate returns than you would on a joint return for the reasons listed under Special Rules, later. However, unless you are required to file separately, you should figure your tax both ways (on a joint return and on separate returns). This way you can make sure you are using the filing status that results in the lowest combined tax. When figuring the combined tax of husband and wife, you may want to consider state taxes as well as federal taxes. How to file. If you file a separate return, you generally report only your own income, exemptions, credits, and deductions. You can claim an exemption for your spouse only if your spouse had no gross income, is not filing a return, and was not the dependent of another person. If you file as married filing separately, you can use Form 1040A or Form 1040. Select this filing status by checking the box on line 3 of either form. You also must enter your spouse's full name in the space provided and must enter your spouse's SSN or ITIN in the space provided unless your spouse does not have and is not required to have an SSN or ITIN. If your spouse does not have and is not required to have an SSN or ITIN, enter “NRA” in the space for your spouse's SSN. Use the Married filing separately column of the Tax Table or Section C of the Tax Computation Worksheet to figure your tax. Special Rules If you choose married filing separately as your filing status, the following special rules apply. Because of these special rules, you usually pay more tax on a separate return than if you use another filing status you qualify for. www.irs.gov/publications/p501/ar02.htm... www.irs.gov use the search box for Publication 501 go to chapter 2 for more information about this matter. Hope that you find the above enclosed information useful. 08/22/2013
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I am very disappointed with my mortgage company and since I work a part-time job, no one else will aid me in refinancing for a lower interest rate. My mortgage interest rate went up this year by 2% and as I know they will continue to increase every 3-6 months. I went from 7.1% to 9.1%. I been at my part time job for a little over a year. I had plans to sell my home this year but early last year the day my sister passed, I was given a letter from my full time job that I am laid off and they were going to let me know 2 weeks from that date but since I had to take a leave, they gave it to me earlier. Have not worked a full time since. Can someone please provide some sound information for I am desperate and do not want to lose what has taken me ten years to keep. Thanks
Hello there, I used to work as a loan officer for a bank. So I understand your concern and I would like to give you a simple advice. Do not give up. You are probably on an adjustable rate that started changing already and it will continue to increase until it reaches the maximum interest allowed under the contract that you signed with your current lender. There are many banks that will approve you even if you have no job. The two key factors in any loan are the credit score and the LTV (loan to value) which means the amount of loan you are taking compared with the value of the house. The better the credit score and the lower the LTV the better deal you will get. My simple advice is to shop around and call as many lenders as possible until you find somebody that will approve you at the proper closing costs and rate. Give the loan officers all the information except your social. You do not want every company to run your credit, that will drop your score. You should only give your social when you feel that the company can help you achieve your goal. I suggest to start with the big names in the business like Ditech, Quick loan funding, Country Wide Loans. You can find all these mortgage companies online. Good luck and if you have any further questions feel free to contact me by email, firstname.lastname@example.org.
It sounds like the problem lays with your employment, not your mortgage. I doubt if you can get a better rates than the 9.1% you have now. Is another part time job in the works? Keep your house payments current, don't go under. It sounds like you have only had this mortgage for a year. AND every time a mortgage company is asked, they will check your credit. Too many checks and your credit rating falls. Just keep up your payments, DON'T lose your house no matter what the interest rate is and get another part time job! It'll be fine.
There are no job verification loans available. You will need to qualify on your credit. Obviously, since the lender is not verifying you even have a job, you pay a premium for the rate. But it may help you out in a short term situation where you can better decide to stay a few more years or have the time to sell in a better market. If interested, contact me and we can discuss your financing options. Web: http://www.SLarson.com/contact Email: Steve@SLarson.com
Hi, I'm a senior mortgage consultant with a mortgage company. We have had situations similar to yours on a number of occasions and have been able to help homeowners get new financing, many times at much more favorable terms than they have had. I agree with some of the other respondants who suggest you limit the number of credit inquiries you allow to be done. The solution to your particular problem will be dependent on your credit score and loan to value ratio. I would suggest you contact a mortgage consultant and explain your situation to him or her. Our company has access to over 100 different mortgage lenders which enables us to find the best solution for each situation. I would be happy to review your situation with you and assist you in finding financing that will allow you stay in your home and lower your payments. Steve
Well, you're going to have to make a very large decision before anything else: Do you want to fight to keep what you have, or do you want to fight to get more? If you want to fight to get more, sell the house asap and reinvest the proceeds. If you want to fight to keep what you have, I work along with Primerica Financial Services. We can consolidate pretty much any loan under the Sun, and we only do fixed-rate loans and mortgages. If you'd like to talk, e-mail me at email@example.com. My name's Chris. And I'm only a part-time guy.
For what state? you may be able to do some type of no doc loan if you have some equity..
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My husband cosigned a 50,000 home equity loan for my mom n law's house.Mom is schizophrenic and can't pay the mortgage the bank wants to forclose on her.My mother n law doesn't want to sell the home she decided she wants to stay and refuses to allow us to sell the house.What can my husband do to save himself.
The only way to take his name off the loan is for the bank to release him, which I don't see happening. If the bank were satisfied with your mom's signature being enough, they wouldn't have wanted a co-signer in the first place. The only thing that your husband can do to avoid destroying his future credit is make the payments himself and figure out how to settle with mom later. Here is the real hard advice, and I know it's hard. Get an attorney and go to court to declare her disabled and get yourself appointed guardian of her property. It sounds like she is not mentally capable of handling her finances. (Some states use terms other than disabled and guardianship. Those are terms in Illinois. Any attorney will know what I mean and figure out what your local law requires.) I know this is a tough thing; we went through it in our family. Best wishes.
The only way to get out of a co-signed loan is for the person who needs the loan to refinance the loan. So, your mother-in-law would need to refinance the loan in order for your husband to be taken off the loan. Since the loan is a home equity, I am not sure whether you can refinance that alone or if the entire house will need to be refinanced. I am thinking that the entire house will need to be refinanced.
The answer really is the only way he could do it would be to get a new loan only in his mother's name. There is NO other legal way to get his name off the loan. That is the risk you take when you co-sign for anyone!
Yes, he can take his name off the loan. All he needs to do is contact the bank and tell them he wants to be removed. They will let him know what he needs to do. Usually he just needs to get a notarized letter stating to remove his name. MAKE SURE HIS NAME IS REMOVED FROM THE MORTGAGE ,DEED, TITLE....EVERYTHING! Please be aware though, that if the house is foreclosed upon, the bank has the option to go after your husband, since he was a cosignor of the loan. They will most likely ask the judge during the court proceedings to go after your husband, also, within a specified time range. GOOD LUCK! THIS IS NOT AND SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED LEGAL ADVICE!
No, he can't take his name off, without his mother getting a loan in her own name. Your husband needs to talk to a lawyer. He won't be able to do anything about it without upsetting his mom, but sometimes that's the way things go.
On account that costs of pastime are low, in step with hazard in the journey that your husband presented him $5000.00 he could refinance the indoors maximum loan. do no longer provide your father in regulation the money till the refinance went with the aid of and allow your husband call the indoors maximum loan to substantiate that the stability has been paid. If he can get in writing, which would be much greater perfect.
He'll need to help her make payments or his credit will be ruined. He needs to talk to a lawyer and, if possible, get his mother to refinance the debt without his name on it.
When he cosigned, he promised to make good on the debt if she doesn't. That's a legal contract and he can't just "take his name off" of it.
Tough one, would have to make payments, then bring suit in court to force a sell, but it maybe a mute point if their is no equity in the property
See a lawyer who specializes in this sort of thing.
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The guy buying my truck is coming tomorow. My loan is through Amcore. I am assuming I can pay off my loan at any Amcore bank with the money from selling my truck. I live in Illinois but my loan is through a Amcore bank in Wisconsin. Where is the title to my truck and how do I obtain it or how do I give it to the guy who is buying my truck?
Cheyenne is right, when you get the money for the truck, pay off the loan and the title will be automatically sent to you and then you can just sign it over and then mail it to the new buyer. What you need to do tomorrow though, is to write out a detailed Bill of Sale for the guy buying your truck, otherwise he's not going to want to hand over the cash without something in return. The Bill of Sale should have all of the information about the vehicle - year, make, and VIN #. It should also include the mileage at the time of transfer. Include the amount of the sale, your name and address and his name and address. Whenever I sold my cars, I also always included "As is - Where is" so they know that they are buying the car in the condition that it is in. I always told them if I knew of any pre-existing conditions, but if it decides to start knocking and pinging in a month - that's their problem, not mine... You can just write out the bill of sale, it doesn't have to be anything fancy, just so it's complete, but if you have your doubts, go online and type in vehicle bill of sale and there are plenty that you can download. Keep a copy of the bill of sale for yourself and give one to the buyer. When you get the title and sign it over, some states have a section for the seller to complete as well as the buyer so look it over before you hand it over - you might have an obligation to send something in or to fill something out on line, letting the state know about the sale.
You need to call the buyer and tell them that you do not have the title and that there is a loan that needs to be paid. Do not wait until they show up with the cash and expect to get the truck and a title. This will only loose your sale. Maybe if you are straight with them, the two of you can work something out if they understand the situation. The next thing you have to do is find out how much you owe on the loan. If the money you get from the sale is not enough to pay off your loan, you will need to come up with the rest of it to get your title.
If you still owe the bank money for your truck, you will not be able to get the title until you have paid your loan in full. There is no way that you can get your title until you have paid your entire loan. Your title is being held as collateral, so that if you were to default on your loan (not pay it), the bank can repo your truck......it's the bank's guarantee so that they can get their money. Once your loan is paid in full, the bank will send your title to you in the mail (this can take 4-6 weeks). Occasionally, some banks will allow you to go inside to the loan department and pay your loan off in person....and they will immediatly give you your title, but this is quite uncommon.
Once you pay off the loan, the title will be sent to you. In turn, you will then have to sign it over to the new buyer. Transfer of title at the Department of Motor Vehicles.
Dude,,,you should have the title,,,,with a "lien" on it (the banks name)...you pay the bank...they send you a (lien release)...u better tell this guy b4 he drives all that way...he is not gonna give you money with out a title thats the way it works here in NY
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I live in Illinois and my mother, who lives in Illinois too, had an adjustable rate loan and went to switch over to a locked rate loan. We went with our banker in town and 2 months later the bank was bought out and no longer offered an investment/locked rate loan. So the banker went to a different bank and we gave him permission to take the information to his new bank.....That was 5 months ago and now my mom has received a notice that the old bank is foreclosing on her home that she used as collateral because The old loan had matured and she figured it would be a good time to switch to a locked/lower rate loan instead of going with the adjustable rate loan again. This banker has taken over 7 months to get this loan together. The real kicker is that he was released from his old job and had his new job in 2 days so it's not like he was unemployed real long. We would like to file a complaint against him and we're not sure who to contact. FYI, this question is also being posted in Personal Finance. I would like to try and get as many answers as possible, not for points but I would like information that is reliable. Thank you
I have done this before and won my case... they made the loan officer reverse her actions. I contacted the branch manager of the office the loan officer was located at... told her the situation... she in turn gave me the email of the head guy at the main branch... emailed him... was telephoned the next day = problem solved. Be polite, courtesy and do not raise your voice.
Basically, the flex rate mortgages are the biggest rip off that has ever been invented. The bank that lent you the money for the house knew that in a couple of years they would push the loan to a rate your family couldn't pay and then forclose it. This is the plan and this is how the game is played. The big problem is they get away with such things because they own the politicians and the PAC's they serve. The guy who carried your loan to a new bank is not responsible for your getting a refinance. You (your parents) are. Your parents should have immediately sought a different financial source when the guy left his job. Currently because of the fact the bank is reporting the foreclosure, your moms credit is screwed and she will probably not qualify for a loan to refinance the home. I's another way they have of ensuring they can rip off your property (legally). And what's worse if they do foreclose, they will right off a huge deficiency in what they get when they resell it to a friend at a huge discount, and your will get stuck paying that even though you won't have the property anymore. So your family will end up pqaying for the house you don't live in but one of your bankers friends does. There are Loan modifications ans things your mom can do with the bank to reconcile the mortgage. And, as soon as this is done, she needs to go to a reputable bank and get it refinanced on a fixed rate 30 year mortgage. The only thing nastier than a politician is the banks they sleep with. Your mom is going to need a lawyer. Now. Call your local bar association for a referral. If you go by the advice here on the web things will be a lot worse. Get a lawyer get a lawyer, and then if your not sure get a lawyer now. Do it yesterday.
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My husband and I have been pre-approved for a My Community Mortgage. All we were told is that we need to put 5% down, they pay 50% of the PMI and the property has to be move-in ready. After reading some things from FAnnie Mae and other sites it looks like you don't have to put anything down. Can anyone give me more information on this type of loan. We live in Illinois and I'm not sure if rules.restriction vary from stsate to state, but I need clarification on this type of loan. Please help!
Ok, first I'll post the highlights from Fannie Mae's site to recap: **************************************... MyCommunityMortgageTM is a flexible mortgage product for low- and moderate-income borrowers. Key Features No minimum borrower contribution. Up to a 40-year term. Options for lower initial monthly payments with a 5-year or 10-year interest-only period. Funds for down payment and closing costs can come from a wide range of sources, such as a gift from a family member; a gift, grant or loan from a nonprofit organization, municipality or employer; or the borrower's own funds. Loan-to-value ratios permitted up to 100 percent for 1-unit properties. Extra flexibility on credit histories, including consideration of nontraditional credit histories. Extra flexibility on income sources including consideration of boarder income even if boarders are not related to the borrower. Cash reserves at closing not required in most cases. Part-time and overtime income is considered. Purchase a single-family home (including a condo or co-op), a two-, three-, or four-family home to live in one unit and rent out the others (minimum 3 percent borrower contribution for two- to four-unit properties). The following options for MyCommunityMortgage may provide additional flexibilities for qualified borrowers: Community SolutionsTM for teachers, police, firefighters, and healthcare workers. Community HomeChoiceTM for borrowers with a disability or a family member with a disability. **************************************... Ok, now to address your question a bit. You may have to put some money down, the program can lend UP to 100%, but it's not guaranteed. The area you live in may be a declining market area where limits to LTV are now being placed. This program allows for a lot alternative and expanded qualifying methods that ordinary loan guidelines will not allow. So, more homeowners can qualify under this Fannie Mae effort. I would tell you to you to find another lender. Obtaining a mortgage can be a very stressful undertaking and the last thing you need is NO communication from your loan officer. Through my unscientific surveys with my clientele, they tell me that the #1 or #2 complaint they had from their previous lender was poor communication. Your loan officer should take the time to explain the program to you. Unfortunately, many L.O.'s don't understant themselves, they just get you to say yes and then pass along the file to someone else. Find a lender that will communicate to your satisfaction. You should not do anything, be it a mortgage, investment or anything else, if you don't understand it. Just because it is a government backed program does not mean that the lender originating the loan will do right by you. If you are forced to post your question here, then they don't deserve your business and you should fire them immediately. There are plenty of reputable companies out there. Find one, and then find a L.O. (loan officer) that your comfortable with, you need both. Good luck
The My Community is a Govt subsidised mortgage. The reason you have to put 5% down has to do more with where the house is than the program. The area you are buying a home in is called a declining market. When Fannie May declares a declining market the loans issuesd on homes in that area have their Loan to Value requirement reduced by 5%. The good news is that if you are going to put 5% down that you should just qualify conventionally on a non my community mortgage. Those have lower rates. or better yet put 3% down and go FHA for the better rate but less money down, and easier qualifying requirements. Email me if you want more info.
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If you only owe $5,000 and you have steady income, then pay off your debts. It is not worth taking the 7 to 10 year hit that a bankruptcy stays on your credit report for and it will cost at least a $1000 so you might as well put that money towards your debts.
How much in total do you owe? I am not sure you can discharge those tickets. You can get a free consult with a bankruptcy attorney to find out how much it would cost to file. Expect the whole process to cost you anywhere from $2500 to 5k.
For Finance and credit solutions I always visit this site where you can find all the solutions. http://your-finance.us/index.html?src=TC...RE :Finling bankruptcy?? how much does it cost? i have things on my credit like cell phones payday loans and 1 credit card unpaid tickets and thats about it.. im in illinois how much will my ch 13 be i dont have anything im paying on, my car is paid for how much for filing, how long does it take for everything to be finalized, how long does it remain on credit Update: i owe about 5,000 and the tickets went on my credit report Follow 7 answers
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I have 150 credits earned from India. I have a bachelor degree in accounting from india. I satisfy both the requirements(24 credits of business courses and 24 credit of accounting courses). Out of 150 credits 30 credits are taken at Institute of chartered accountants of india. Will Illinois board of examiners transfer all of my credits? Will I be able to sit for the CPA examination?
First of all, you need to have your academic credentials evaluated by a board-approved foreign education evaluation service, such as FACS, ACEI, Joseph Silny, etc. The evaluation will have to show that your bachelor's degree and college coursework in India are deemed to be equivalent to a bachelor's degree and applicable accounting or business-related coursework from a regionally or nationally accredited US college or university. If the evaluation shows that the coursework that you have done meets the US equivalent of 24 semester hours of upper division or graduate level accounting and 24 semester hours of business-related courses, then you should be able to sit for the Uniform CPA Examination. If Illinois will not allow you to do so, check any of the other 54 states or jurisdictions to find one that will allow you to sit as a candidate of that other state or jurisdiction. Scores from the Uniform CPA Examination ARE transferable to any other state's board of accountancy when you are ready to seek certification or licensure. Good luck!
Most people will recieve a bachelor's degree with about 120 credit hours. The other 30 credit hours usually come from getting a graduate degree. Getting a graduate degree in accounting will automatically qualify for you to take the CPA exam.
Www.nasba.org should guide you to Illinois' requirements for CPA licensure. NASBA is the National Association of State Boards of Accountancy in the US. Good luck.
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Well, unfortunately you are not alone. I don't think you have much of a chance.
Your best bet would be looking for an individual who would be willing to do an owner finance on the house, or you could check to see if there are any rent to own homes in your area. Chicago is a very large city, google it, or look on www.craigslist.com there are usually alot of listings for big cities on there. Good luck. I know how you feel about the credit thing, it is very discouraging when you have bad credit, because no one wants to give you credit so that you can build it back up. Also, if your husband has good credit, try applying for a loan in just his name. Then the home would be in his name, but later you can be added on. Hope things work out for you. EDIT"""" Also google hud housing it chicago illinois, Hud is usually great about trying to help people find financing, even if your credit is less than perfect. But even with that you will likely have a high intrest rate.
They will gladly give you a loan for 30 years at 11% interest. DOn't shake your head. It can work. Once you get the house and make timely payments, you can refinance at 6%. But if you make the payments late (because your credit sucks and you just can't seem to find a way to pay your bills on time) , you at least got to own a home while others were renting. /
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No, you obviously do not pay your bills, so no one is going to line up to give you money. You need to get it up at least 100 points to get a high interest loan.
That is a bad score. you cannot buy a house unless you win the lotto.
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I will try to make this as short as possible. I live in illinois. My husband and I recently went to a local dealership and found a vehicle we decided to want to purchase. We told the dealership we would take care of financing ourselves. They said if you don't want us to show the vehicle to anyone while you get financing arranged, we would require a $500 deposit (non-refundable as they put it in case we decided to back out of the deal) but that once financing was complete we would get the deposit back. We paid it with a check cause we had every intention of purchasing the vehicle. We ended up signing what is referred to as a "retail order of purchase". That was the only paper we had signed. 2 days pass and i go to the dealership to let the salesman know that we had applied at 4 different banking institutions and had been denied for the same reason. Instantly he had the sales manager come in and let me tell him what i told him. I told him and then they both said that they could get us financed through a bank, yada yada yada....i told them no cause i had an experience where i let a dealership do the financing for me and they screwed me over thousands of dollars. For that reason i refuse to let a dealership do the financing for me. They went on to say that they could most definetly get us financing and that they would hate for us to lose our deposit if we can't get financing. That rubbed me the wrong way so to speak, and pointed out to them that they said it was only if we backed out of the deal that they would keep it. I hardly consider not being approved for a car loan as "backing out of a deal". if you can't get financed, you can't get financed. Well later on that day, i was visiting my aunt and she started to tell me about a vehicle she was going to test drive the next day. Lo and behold, it was the vehicle we had put the deposit down. I was pretty livid needless to say. It makes me wonder how many others have test drove the vehicle we had paid a deposit on to insure the dealership wouldn't. Isn't that basically breach of contract? At this point i do not wish to do business with a company that i lost trust in. So can they still legally keep my deposit even though they were the ones who breached the contract?
Forgot to add that as it stands we are still negotiations with them. My husband and I told them we would try our luck with a Credit Union. Still waiting to hear word if we've been approved or not. So the fact that they scheduled my aunt to test drive a vehicle that we are still in the business of buying from them is not right in my opinion.
Forgot to add that as it stands we are still negotiations with them. My husband and I told them we would try our luck with a Credit Union. Still waiting to hear word if we've been approved or not. So the fact that they scheduled my aunt to test drive a vehicle that we are still in the business of buying from them is not right in my opinion.
Auto finance is what I do for a living and sorry but the dealer did nothing wrong. They did everything they said they would your the one that breached the contract because you failed to get approved for the loan as promised. I don't understand your reluctance to letting the dealer secure financing for you, if you can't get approved on your own why not let them at least try? Good luck.
Dealer didn't breach anything. You did. Now, had you went thru them and the financing fell thru, THEN you could get your deposit back. Not now. A NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT means just that. Its earnest money to make sure you follow thru. You did not. Its not even close to breach of contract. You don't have a legal leg to stand on. Your options are...find the money and buy the car...finance thru the dealer and buy the car or lose the deposit. Happens every single day in the real world. Its called "earnest money" for a reason. If you fail to buy that car, the dealer is 100% within his rights to keep every penny of that deposit. I was a small time side of the road dealer and indeed kept deposits 3-4 times over the years for similar reasons. ANY reason or no reason. A non-refundable deposit you don't really need a reason to keep it if the buyer doesn't buy, he forfeits the deposit. I went out of my way with my customers so that they fully understood that before I accepted a dime. I wont hold the car without a deposit, I told them, but I wont refund the deposit if you fail to buy for any reason. (I had a few instances where the sellers money was coming but hadn't come yet. In that case, I just got a few hundred more and gave them more time) Might be best to accept the dealers financing and then later refinancing. But if you cant get it on your own, it probably wont come at a great rate. Have you tried multiple lenders ? Larger down payment ? Shorter terms ?
For Credit and finance solutions I always recommend this website where you can find all the solutions. http://LOANSANDFINANCES.INFO/index.html?...RE :Car dealership breached contract, can they still legally keep my "non-refundable" deposit? I will try to make this as short as possible. I live in illinois. My husband and I recently went to a local dealership and found a vehicle we decided to want to purchase. We told the dealership we would take care of financing ourselves. They said if you don't want us to show the vehicle to anyone while you get financing arranged, we would require a $500 deposit (non-refundable as they put it in case we decided to back out of the deal) but that once financing was complete we would get the deposit back. We paid it with a check cause we had every intention of purchasing the vehicle. We ended up signing what is referred to as a "retail order of purchase". That was the only paper we had signed. 2 days pass and i go to the dealership to let the salesman know that we had applied at 4 different banking institutions and had been denied for the same reason. Instantly he had the sales manager come in and let me tell him what i told him. I told him and then they both said that they could get us financed through a bank, yada yada yada....i told them no cause i had an experience where i let a dealership do the financing for me and they screwed me over thousands of dollars. For that reason i refuse to let a dealership do the financing for me. They went on to say that they could most definetly get us financing and that they would hate for us to lose our deposit if we can't get financing. That rubbed me the wrong way so to speak, and pointed out to them that they said it was only if we backed out of the deal that they would keep it. I hardly consider not being approved for a car loan as "backing out of a deal". if you can't get financed, you can't get financed. Well later on that day, i was visiting my aunt and she started to tell me about a vehicle she was going to test drive the next day. Lo and behold, it was the vehicle we had put the deposit down. I was pretty livid needless to say. It makes me wonder how many others have test drove the vehicle we had paid a deposit on to insure the dealership wouldn't. Isn't that basically breach of contract? At this point i do not wish to do business with a company that i lost trust in. So can they still legally keep my deposit even though they were the ones who breached the contract? Update: Forgot to add that as it stands we are still negotiations with them. My husband and I told them we would try our luck with a Credit Union. Still waiting to hear word if we've been approved or not. So the fact that they scheduled my aunt to test drive a vehicle that we are still in the business of buying from them is not right in my opinion. Update 2: Forgot to add that as it stands we are still negotiations with them. My husband and I told them we would try our luck with a Credit Union. Still waiting to hear word if we've been approved or not. So the fact that they scheduled my aunt to test drive a vehicle that we are still in the business of buying from them is not right in my opinion. Follow 6 answers
If there is nothing in writing or on his business then no, he can't keep the 100. You can take him to small claims court to get it back but if you do, don't forget to add the amount you have to pay for small claims court. The last time I took someone to small claims court, it cost me about $80 so if you win, he will owe you $180.
You did back out of the deal, you failed to perform as agreed. You forfeit the deposit.
You told them you could not get financed and did not buy the car as you said you would they have done nothing wrong
What part of Non-Refundable didn't you understand? It's your fault that you couldn't complete the transaction, not the dealer's. The deposit means they couldn't SELL the car to anyone, it doesn't necessarily mean they can't demo it to anyone. At that point they figured you were unable to buy it anyway, especially since you were refusing to let them even try to get you approved with one of their lenders. NEWS FLASH - Dealers have a LOT more power to get loan approvals for people simply because they send in 100's of contracts if not 1,000s per year. You should have let them at least try.
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Education All pest control workers in Illinois must have a high school diploma or GED. Technicians who perform extermination services only in commercial buildings with pesticides not deemed as restricted by the state don't need any additional training or education. Those who provide extermination services to residential customers or use restricted chemicals must complete a pest control course approved by the Illinois Department of Public Health. Alternatively, such candidates can complete 16 credits of coursework in entymology at an accredited college or university or have six months of work experience related to pest control. Other Requirements Candidates for pest control technician licensing in Illinois must complete an application, which is available from the Illinois Department of Public Health. The application asks questions regarding candidates' personal contact information. In addition, candidates must include a 2-inch by 2-inch photograph of themselves when returning the form. Payment of a fee is also necessary; this fee was $75 as of April 2011. Any candidate who is more than 30 days delinquent on a required child support order may be ineligible for licensing. Examination After completing the application, candidates for pest control licensing in Illinois must pass a written examination. The test is typically held at least monthly in different areas in the state, including Peoria, Des Plaines, Orland Park, Champaign, Wood River, Carterville and Springfield. The multiple-choice examination relates to label comprehension, safety, environmental awareness and the handling and storage of pesticides. All technicians who wish to work with any restricted pesticides must take an additional examination for each category in which they wish to be licensed. The restricted categories are insects and rodents, termites, birds, fumigation, food processing, institutional and multiresident housing, public health pest control and wood products pest control. Renewal Once issued, Illinois pest control licensing remains valid for three years; it expires on December 31 of the expiration year. To qualify for renewal, technicians must complete an application, which is available online at the Illinois Department of Public Health's website. In addition, technicians must complete a minimum of nine hours of continuing-education coursework in classes approved by the department. Technicians must also pay a renewal fee, which was $75 as of April 2011.
Find an experienced owner possible become his full time or part time helper. and get certified - licensed.
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I need to go for a Retreat in Israel next month that is very important to me. I don't have enough finances at the moment. I am a dependent resident in the USA (Illinois). No credit rating yet. No debt either. No job, but if I can get the loan and if the period of payback and payback sum equates to what I can make in the payback time by working a first-ever-job (no degree), so Fast Food type stuff, then Id like to take the loan, Go, come back, and work it off. I need $ 1,500-2000 Does anyone know if it is possible to secure a loan in my position for this amount without having to get tangled in some serious interest rates and short payback periods which I would not be able to pay back through a menial job? If yes, which bank/agency? Much thanks
With no income and no credit history, it is highly unlikely you'll find anyone willing to lend to you other than friends or family. Yours would be a highly risky loan.
You will not get a loan for 2k without a job. They would like to see a steady income in order to believe you can pay it back. Add to that no credit rating? You have no track record to go on. Ask your family for this money. If it is a religious retreat, ask your Rabbi or pastor. No loan company not even a payday loan place will lend you money without a job.
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I am an attorney Based out of Joliet Illinois, but I do not practice Bankruptcy Law, however in researching a few matters for a friend I found the following website, which will assist you with some of your bankruptcy questions, its: http://www.ilnb.uscourts.gov/ and YES within 180 days before you file your Initial Bankruptcy Petition you must have gone to or made an appointment with an authorized credit counseling agency. From their site you can look for the PDF that says "Warning Regarding Credit Counseling" good luck! John M. Kogut
You should take a look at the options you can find at: HTTP://HELP.FINANCE-SOLUTIONS.INFO RE Regarding the bankruptcy laws in Illinois, MUST one go through a? Credit Counseling Service for a certain amount of time before you are allowed to file for bankruptcy?
I worked for an attorney who did bankruptcy in Illinois. I'm not sure if I remember correctly, but I am pretty certain that the answer is yes. You do have to go through credit counseling before you file for bankruptcy. I think its something that was done over the phone in less than an hour, but there was a fee for it. I just don't remember how much. I used to have to call the credit counselors and set up phone appointments for our clients.