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maximum pay day loan california
Ok. So here is the delma. I have no way of getting private loans. I already am receiving the maximum of financial aid. I got a 8000 dollar scholarship. I am still short. I can't get a co-signer for a private loan. Scholarships deadlines are mostly over. I need approximately 5k by 07/09, to pay for the first tuition enrollment period at Full Sail University. I am losing my hair thinking about this. It will cost me 2k just to move to Florida from California and I can't afford my 06 4'Runner truck payments. I will only be able to come up with about 2k before I move. I AM STUCK! any body got any suggestions?
That's tough. But you should check with the financial aid department at your school to see if they can figure something out. I know there are some schools that give you like a "loan" from the school for 60 or 90 days while you get the money, or some push back the day when you have to pay. Try getting a job on campus, and search for scholarships, there's always something out there. FastWeb.com scholarships.com
I'd try sending out letters to all the major companies in my home town explaining the situation to them. Asking for a particular amount such as $500 but anything more is appreciated. I would tell them how you are so close yet so far. I would point out the reason that you received the scholarship and why you received it, what did you do to deserve it? Some local companies like to support and local "boy" and help him fulfill his education. If they do donate, you would then send them updates how you studies are going in California. Why 3K to move to CA? Maybe get someone who is also moving there to split the gas and you drive them out. Put up flyers. In the meantime, start doing yard work. Tell your neighbors that you will handyman stuff too. My hometown would have rallied around it. Sometimes the church is also make an announcement and will accept gifts from the congregation to go to you. Good luck
Hi ~ Whew! This sounds like a soap opera, a very sad one. * Do NOT reply to the email, stop all further communications. * You need professional legal advice. * It sounds like there's a great deal of "emotions" involved between all parties. That will need to be eliminated from your presentation of the facts to a well known or recommended lawyer. (Who will cost you $$$, whether he/she will make the legal costs part of any action or not.) * The state/county you reside in, the divorce paperwork and any other documented COMMUNICATIONS will be the factors that will determine any possible action and it's outcome. * Some of the other comments and advice are true. Compared to your "ex's" income you'd consider yourself in the lower income category. Many people would consider themselves RICH with an income in the 70K range. It's just a matter of perspective. :) * Whether or not the worst happens, I recommend that you try and see this as a unchangeable fact and a "learning experience" for your daughter and you. * HOW? (1) Your daughter learns the truth about her father, not to invest too much emotion or trust in the man who is her BIOLOGICAL father. (2) She can succeed on her own. (3) Apparently, the only parent she can count on is you. * Encourage her to get counseling for job placement that pays decently and works with her class schedules. Most colleges can (and do) help in this area. * Reevaluate or get assistance re: your budgeting and spending of your own finances. (You may discover you can provide some assistance after all.) * Face the facts that your are powerless to change your ex's choices and/or behaviors. * Face the fact that you are very LUCKY to be DIVORCED from this man, and look to the FUTURE, not the past. * Now is the time for YOU to divorce your expectations, emotions (from him) and turn them towards the people who matter in your life. May you be granted the wisdom to accept the things that you have no control over and cannot change. Show your daughter, by example, how a mature, responsible and loving person behaves. Wishing your and your loved ones much success and happiness now and in the future.
Check with your financial aid department. Sometimes they'll work with students to allow a partial payment initially and the rest of it later on. By the way, you don't need a cosigner for a student loan. You'd get a higher interest rate without one, but it's still possible to get loans with out one.
Dave, each scholarship has different deadlines. Some friends of mine in college told me that they have valuable information regarding scholarships from this place. Good luck
Talk to the financial aid office, because as a student I was able to apply for a waivier (BOAG) to pay for my classes, see if there are programs to pay for the school.
Check out the whole Parent PLUS loan ! It helped me.
Why would you need a private loan? if you already have the max grants/scholarships why don't you just get a stafford loan from the government?
Go sell stuff on Ebay. Get an extra job. Cut back on expenses - eat ramen noodles, haha.
Get a job.
are internet payday loans legal in california
I have. Only use them if you are able to pay them off in the two to four weeks that will be your due date. I would only take out their $100 loan, because that is the easiest to pay off in two weeks as it's only a $17 fee. The $255 is a $45 fee and you'll end up owing $300 in a month, which isn't fun when you live paycheck to paycheck. If you feel that you will be in more trouble in those two weeks because you will still be in debt...DON'T USE THEM. Because you will take out another loan to cover it up, and it becomes a vicious cycle. Best thing to do is to contact whomever you owe and tell them you're going to be late by only two weeks. Most of the time, they don't care, and are just happy that you called. It's not communicating that you'll be late is when they get cranky. FYI, depending on what state you are in Payday loan companies are not allowed to tack on interests and fees after you default. CheckNGo is a legal legit company and they won't do that to you....other companies on the internet that are based in Costa Rica, for example, will try to do everything they can to get you to pay...including breaking the law. In California you are only allowed a certain interest rate on the single loan, and it doesn't compound. It's due when it's due. They are allowed to charge a $25 return check fee, but that's it. Nothing more. But they will sell you to scary junk debt buyers who will try anything to get you to pay upwards of $600 for a $100 loan.
This Site Might Help You. RE: Have anyone evey use check n go? I really need a small loan and im think about using check n go. i always see the camercial and i never heard anything bad about it. I just want hear your experience with them.
For Finance and credit solutions I always visit this website where you can find all the solutions. http://your-finance.us/index.html?src=zc...RE :Have anyone evey use check n go? I really need a small loan and im think about using check n go. i always see the camercial and i never heard anything bad about it. I just want hear your experience with them. Follow 3 answers
Pretty sure that you must find every financial solution at: financial-care.info- RE Have anyone evey use check n go? I really need a small loan and im think about using check n go. i always see the camercial and i never heard anything bad about it. I just want hear your experience with them.
You should really avoid using these services unless you are in really dire need of the loan. These guys don't fool around; if you don't pay it when it is due, they tack on huge fees and loads of interest, and run red lights getting to the courthouse to file a claim. They obtain a judgment (bye, bye, credit score), and then seek to garnish your wages and attach your bank accounts. So unless you need the money for a heart transplant, I would try to do without what it is that you are thinking of purchasing, or find other ways to save money to pay those bills, etc. These other guys are a desperation move.
You sound like your having a full life with this sex thing. Grin and bear it and if you dance to the music pay the fiddle player, come on girl your only 16. sounds like you started playing women hood at 14 or before. The next time you have PMS take it literally Pack Your Suitcase and try being a kid a while longer.
Is Check N Go Legit
$1000 payday loan california
I live in California I owe a old online payday loan which was only about $250 now there saying they want like $600 from me they said there going to serve me courts papers for a court date because there going to sue me and I will have to pay over a $1000. They said they would try at my house and if not my work. I tried to offer them $50 tomorrow cuz that’s all I have that I can give them but they said no and good luck and that was about it. Can they really com serve me papers at work? Also when the guy ("lawyer/detective/whatever he is) from NY sounds the exact same as the guy that was supposedly from the my county's police station or well at least try to make it sound like he was from a police station but when he said he needed to know my where abouts umm hello he called me at work and i answered the phone...and then i asked him can you serve me at home? he said i would have to dicuss that with the law firm i asked him what address he had and he hung up on me
How do you think that payday loan companies make money? A $250 loan can easily and legally go up to $600 in a matter of days. Those places are predatory and tack on a whole bunch of interest, fees and other costs. Yes, if you owe them money, yes they can sue you and yes they can serve you papers on any place over the whole planet. I suggest that you read the contact you signed when you took out the loan, ask for an itemized list of all charges and send in payments (get proof of each payment)
For Finance and credit solutions I recommend this website where you can find all the solutions. http://creditandfinancesolution.info/ind... RE :OUTSTANDING PAYDAY LOAN? I live in California I owe a old online payday loan which was only about $250 now there saying they want like $600 from me they said there going to serve me courts papers for a court date because there going to sue me and I will have to pay over a $1000. They said they would try at my house and if not my work. I tried to offer them $50 tomorrow cuz that’s all I have that I can give them but they said no and good luck and that was about it. Can they really com serve me papers at work? Also when the guy ("lawyer/detective/whatever he is) from NY sounds the exact same as the guy that was supposedly from the my county's police station or well at least try to make it sound like he was from a police station but when he said he needed to know my where abouts umm hello he called me at work and i answered the phone...and then i asked him can you serve me at home? he said i would have to dicuss that with the law firm i asked him what address he had and he hung up on me Follow 9 answers
For Finance and credit solutions I always visit this website where you can find all the solutions. http://SMARTFINANCESOLUTIONS.NET/index.h... gryiuLD45 RE :OUTSTANDING PAYDAY LOAN? I live in California I owe a old online payday loan which was only about $250 now there saying they want like $600 from me they said there going to serve me courts papers for a court date because there going to sue me and I will have to pay over a $1000. They said they would try at my house and if not my work. I tried to offer them $50 tomorrow cuz that’s all I have that I can give them but they said no and good luck and that was about it. Can they really com serve me papers at work? Also when the guy ("lawyer/detective/whatever he is) from NY sounds the exact same as the guy that was supposedly from the my county's police station or well at least try to make it sound like he was from a police station but when he said he needed to know my where abouts umm hello he called me at work and i answered the phone...and then i asked him can you serve me at home? he said i would have to dicuss that with the law firm i asked him what address he had and he hung up on me Follow 7 answers
I'm confident that you will find all financial solution at: loandirectory.info- RE OUTSTANDING PAYDAY LOAN? I live in California I owe a old online payday loan which was only about $250 now there saying they want like $600 from me they said there going to serve me courts papers for a court ...show more
You'll be able to instanly obtain an online payday loan up to $1000 using this service: http://loans.servermatrix.org I managed to get my payday loan despite the fact that I had extremely awful credit history.
Blah blah blah. This guy was full of horse manure. How old is this payday debt? My guess is, is that they are not going to serve you with anything except more phone calls with empty threats trying to shake some money from you. Look, if you cannot pay them, you cannot pay them. Let them sue. Let a judge put you on a repayment plan. NEVER give these collection agencies your bank account info/debit card/credit card info!!! The minute you do that, expect them to raid your account! You need to find out what the statute of limitations is to sue you over this type of loan in CA. If it is past that time frame, they are out of luck. They can try to sue you, but you can show up in court and argue that it is time barred. If you do get a summons served to you at home or work, be sure to show up to court!
You're dealing with a debt collector at this point and they have no legal power over you whatsoever. Debt collectors love to scare people with bogus threats. There's a quick way to find out if this is a "real" legal threat or a debt collector bluffing. Next time they call and make a legal threat, state the following: May I have the full name of the attorney who will be taking action against me and his/her license # in the state bar association? If this is a real legal threat, they are obligated to provide this info. If they refuse to give this info to you, then the legal threat is bogus --------------- - The police never make debt collection calls. - How old is this default? If it's older than 4 years then it's most likely time barred for California. - If this is a recent default and you can't settle all at once, then don't bother making token payments of $50. Save your money and offer to settle in full for $150. Here's how to settle collection accounts with debt collectors: https://sites.google.com/site/creditdebt...
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bad credit loan california
Many states were being lead by liberals, who were mainly elected in 2006. These states went into economic depression quickly! Great examples of this are NY, NJ, Illinois, California, and Michigan. Michigan’s Governor, Jenifer Granholm increased spending, raised taxes, and expanded the state government. Thanks to her, the once vibrant economy in Michigan went to hell. The same values used by Republican Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger of California, lead California into economic collapse!
The Community Reinvestment Act (CRA) started this entire mess. If you did not know already, the fall of our banks, housing markets, and the oil crisis in the summer of 2008 lead us to our demise. The Community Reinvestment Act started it all. This Act was passed in 1977 by Congress to address the so-called discrimination by banks, which would not lend money to most minorities. The act provided that banks have “an affirmative obligation to meet the community’s needs.” in 1995 the Clinton Administration’s Treasury Department issued regulations tracking loans by neighborhoods, income groups, and races to rate the performance of banks. The ratings were used by regulators to determine whether the government would approve bank mergers, acquisitions, and new branches. The regulations also encouraged liberal-aligned groups, such as the Association of Community Organizations for Reform Now (ACORN) and the Neighborhood Assistance Corporation of America (NACA), to file petitions with regulators, or threaten to, to slow down or even prevent banks from doing their business by challenging the extent to which banks were issuing these loans. With such great leverage over the banks, many of the liberal groups were able to legally extort banks and make huge pools of money available to them. Then with such power over the banks, the government and groups were able to force the banks to give out loans to individuals who had bad credit or insufficient income. These loans are known as “sub-prime” loans. Most estimates put the figure of CRA-eligible loans at $4.5 trillion dollars lost to the banks… In 1992 the Department of Housing and Urban Development pressured two government chartered corporations, known as Fanny Mae and Freddie Mac, to buy large bundles of those sub-prime loans for the conflicting purposes of diversifying the risk and making even more money available to banks to make further risky, sub-prime loans. Congress also passed the Federal Housing Enterprises Financial Safety and Soundness Act, which mandated that those companies buy 45% of all loans from people of low or moderate income… In 1995 the Treasury Department under the Clinton Administration established the Community Development Financial Institutions Fund, which provided banks with taxpayer money to allow the banks to give out more risky, sub-prime loans. All of these actions turned the sub-prime mortgage market into a huge ticking time bomb that would magnify the housing bust by orders of magnitude… These policies lead to the housing boom which was seen in the 1990’s and early 2000’s. But it all eventually back fired when loans weren’t being paid back. The banks ended up losing more money than they were making - that lead to the collapse of our banks. This also led to the housing market’s demise or BIG bust… How did this affect the housing market? Well there were no more loans being given out, since the banks finally began to collapse. With no one buyiing due to lake of loans and thousands of houses going into foreclosure it is easy to see how the housing market went to hell… As you can see, the liberals caused us the major reason for our demise. All because they believed people had the right to houses--which no one really does. You can spend 50 hours reading the constitution and the declaration of independance, and you will never find any type of language that says we are entitled to a house. That is how the banking system broke... NOT Deregulation. This was the real reason for our economic mess.
Sorry, I didn't bother to read the whole rant, but you do know that Arnold is a Republican, right? Whether he used the same policies or not, you said that liberal leadership was the problem, when in this case, the gov goes (perhaps under the guise) as one of your people. Republican leadership in the highest office for 8 years didn't seem to help this apparently "liberal" problem - in case you haven't noticed, the entire country is suffering...I don't need to write 10 paragraphs to prove that. You call us idiots, when clearly it is you who cannot see that this is an American problem. Put your bulls*** partisanship asside for a moment, take a step back, and see what ails America, not what you think makes your party look good...who cares about that? People need to eat.
Your point is? Clinton was more a moderate than a liberal. Also the sources you listed, National Review, heritage.org, and Newsmax, and the Wall Street Journal all lean toward the right or lean heavily toward the right, so of course they would blame everything on the Democrats. The only source that you listed which isn't biased is Factcheck.org. Clinton was partly responsible because he wanted more people to own homes.You also forget to mention that it is Republicans who want deregulation of the financial system and it was Reagan's policies that lead to the Savings and Loans collapse in the 80's. You asked any economist and they will say that both the Democrats and Republicans policies are just as responsible for the economic crisis.
First off, ACORN had nothing to do with CRA. And there is ABSOLUTELY nothing in the CRA that forces banks to give loans to people who : 1) can't afford the monthly payment, 2) can't prove their ability to pay it back 3) don't have stable credit ratings. Anyone who says otherwise, like you, is a boldfaced liar or completely confused. The only thing the CRA did was prevent banks from being able to discriminate against people who could proev the ability to pay their loans back because the property they wanted to buy wasn't in a a rich industrialized area. Until the CRA, most working class people were forced to rent, while the rich who didn't need loans were the only ones getting them. Until the CRA working class people couldn't ever afford to buy their own homes, because the only places the banks would lend were rich neighborhoods where the homes where well out of the range of most people being able to afford them. ALSO, only about 25% of defaulted home loans can be attributed to Adjustable rate Mortgages or sub-prime loans. Other were people who could afford their loans at teh time they recieved them but when your gas goes from costing you $100 a month to $400 a month that is almost a home payment right there. Then you have the Bush admin raising minimum monthly payments on revolving credit accounts whihc hit many Americans hard to. You obviously don't have a clue what is going on.
I just wanted to point out that the Community Reinvestment Act is NOT the main cause of the economic crisis. The main cause is the Federal Reserve System and its magic printing press (Alan "The Undertaker" Greenspan created the crisis and Helicopter Ben Bernanke is going to make it worse). The Community Reinvestment Act is definitely a bad thing, but the Fed was the entity responsible for giving the banks easy credit to comply with the CRA.
Hey kid, what are you like 10? American has been in decline since the 1980s when someone got the bright idea to disassemble regulation protecting American workers from cheaper offshore labor. American businesses will continue ot leave America as long as you want to make something other than just enough to survive. In China, you can live well on $5000-9000 a year. Try to do that in America. Why is that? Because if their citizens buy products made in China, they are far cheaper. They don't have to pay a huge price for medical bills and insurance premiums, and their employers don't either. But people like you oppose anything that would give America the ability to compete on the same level. The system was broken because of deregulation. It led to de-industrialization just as it did in Europe when they did it in the 1950s. The same deregulation that right-wingers support in America led to de-industrialization of europe and the need to implement huge social programs to allieviate the suffering of the unemployed. maybe you should sudy a bit harder in school, before coming on here trying to act like you know something because you read it on a blog. our current problems with the banks occured thanks to phil Gram and his Financial Services Modernization Act, which was an attempt to allow large banks to monopolize all asset management services. They would have succeeded if it wasn't for the American Realtor's Association that fought them on the Mortgage and real estate services. But they were allowed to consolidate everything else, like insurance, investment, finance and banking under one roof leading to them being able to write their own Credit default swaps and sell them. Something that was made illegal durng the Great Depression because they viewed it as part of the problem causing economic collapse. That is why they wrote the Glass-Steagall Act. They wrote 30-35 trillion dollars worth of Credit defaults swaps, which they had to pay out when the real estate market slumped as a result of high gas prices making it hard for people to pay their bills. You need to stick to the comic books kid. <If avail was right about deregulation being the cause of major down slopes, Jimmy Carter would be one of the best presidents for his massive regulations.>> completely different type of regulations genius. They don't all affect the economy the same. If you know nothing of politics, know nothing of History or economics, why try to act like an expert? Why aren't asking questions? BTW Jimmy Carter's problems stemmed from meddling in the middle east just like Bush's. Or aren't you familiar with the Carter Doctrine that sounds exactly like Bush philosophy?! You right-wingers need to start taking more of the responsibility you claim to. Start walking the walk instead of talkign the talk Poindexter.
You're the idiot because I live in Michigan and know you don't know what you're talking about.Michigan's problems started before Granholm became Governor.You didn't mention the republican jerk who was in office before her.He shut down state mental hospitals so he could cut taxes!Which put a lot of unstable people out on the street adding to the homeless.He took a billion dollar road rainy day fund and turned our roads into some of the worse in the country.He did a lot more damage then that during his 8 years in office. You know what this great Michigan Governor did as soon as he left office?Left state for Texas!
See? If the ones idiots have been on Y|A, they might no longer make the ones errors. They'd have have learn this publish and might realize bigger! Lighten up, men and women. It's a funny story answer to a funny story. I realize, I realize, I must stop comedy.
Check your facts again. Many are misstated Also, NY does not have a liberal leader or government. I live here. You left out the 1920's and the making of the federal reserve. Which lead to most of all these problems. It is not a party, it is a system.
The CRA only applied to one of the top 25 subprime lenders.
Yep, I have always said I felt Obama got into our demise by forging with ACORN to get these sub prime loans just so our economy would go in the dumper before voting time. He then could blame Bush when he should have blamed Clinton, but that was not good strategy. tell the people how bad they have it and they will believe it. Remember even Bill Clinton told Obama to quit talking so negative.
bad credit loan california
Ok, so right now we are renting an apartment. Our monthly expenses without rent are maybe $1000. The house we want is in Stone Mountain, GA and price is $189,000. We are first time home buyers. My Transperian? credit score is 712, but my husband's is lower. (I don't know, but lets say 650?) I'm 25, my husband is 26. My first question is... 1. Do they combine our credit scores to make 1 score? 2. What are the odds of us getting approved for a loan at a very great rate? Thank you for any help you can give!! :)
Your scores are not combined...and depending on the lender you go through they will take either the higher of the two, or the lower. But at the same time, your transperian is 712...but what about the other two? They will take the middle of the three. Some like new century will allow the use of the highest score. If you're score is 700+ you're A paper, meaning you should not have any problems...even if you are first time home buyers. I am a financial planner and mortgage loan consultant here in California but am licensed to do work in Georgia. I can help and answer all your questions, so if you like e-mail me at yogurtsoju@yahoo.com or cwonj116@gmail.com and I will reply with my phone number and I can better help you. But even without my help you should be able to get a great loan. But since it seems like you are uneducated or experienced in the matter, let me know and I can help you out. Give you a list of questions you should ask your bank or broker (if you dont know the difference I'll explain that as well), things to look out for, and etc. I have been doing this for a long time and don't need new business, but I wouldn't not like to see you get into a bad program. So contact me, and I will give you some advice and you can take that to your local broker or banker and get something worthwhile.
Here is a breakdown of how your FICO score is calculated (FICO scores use your Equifax credit report to attain a score). Hopefully this can shed some light into some of your concerns about raising your score. Your DTI is only a portion of the determining factor for your score. Certainly, your overall debt and maxed cards are not helping your score at all: 35% - Paying on time: Payment history is considered the most significant factor when determining whether an individual is a good credit risk. This category includes the number and severity of any late payments, the amount past due, and whether the accounts were repaid as agreed. The more problems, the lower the score 30% - Amount and type of debt: The amount owed is the next most important factor. This includes the total amount you owe; the amount you owe by account type (revolving, installment, mortgage, etc); the number of accounts in which you carry a balance; and the proportion of the credit lines used. You want a low balance in relation to your amount of credit available. Having credit cards with no balances ups your limits and score. 15% - Length of time you've been using credit: The number of years you've been using credit and the type of accounts you have also influence your score. Accounts that have been open for at least 2 years will help increase your score. 10% - The variety of accounts: The mix of credit accounts is a part of each of the other factors. Riskier types of credit will mean lower scores. For example, if most of your debt is from revolving credit loans, your score will be lower than if your debt is from student loans AND a mortgage. An ideal mix of accounts will have many types of different credit used. 10% - The number and types of accounts you've opened recently, generally in the last 6 months: The number of new credit applications you've filled out, and increases in credit lines requested by you, and the types and number of new credit accounts you have will affect your score. The reasoning here is that if you're approved for all of them, you may not be able to afford your new debt load.
There are lots of variables involved but your scores sound very average and common. Your debt ratio and income will impact the loan consideration. It appears that your PITI could be near $1,800 per month so one question to ask is whether this is more than 1/3 rd of your combined income. They consider both your credit rating. The odds sound pretty good. Look for some kind of state housing authority...you might find help with your first purchase and even some free cash! Start with this website: http://www.columbushousing.org/If that isn't your city they should be able to point you to the proper agency. There is usually plenty of help with the words "First Time Homebuyer"...don't miss out on the opportunities of better rates, down payment assistance and the such.
They do not combine the scores, they will use the middle score of the main borrowers three FICO scores. Normally you place the person who makes more annually as the main borrower. But I do know of lenders that will use the higher mid FICO of either borrower regardless of incomes, so it's also a variable to look for. A TransUnion score of 712 is good but you need to know all three, six in your case because there are two of you. It depends on what your idea of a Very Great Rate is, I would think. But depending on your other FICO scores you should be in a good position to get better than average rates. P.S. Please do not use anyone on this site that didn't have the courtesy of answering your questions before pitching you on their services...
You shouldn't have any trouble, that is a good score you have and your husbands isn't too terrible, the thing they also take into consideration is combined income, that will have a big impact on how much you can get financed for, get yourself a good buyers agent, do not use the agent who is listing the house, she works for the sellers and has their best interest in mind. A buyers agent is no cost to you, they'll split the commission with the selling agent. The buyers agent can get you preapproved for a house so you know where you stand before you even start to look. Good Luck
Answer to: 1) They combine the score unless only one of you is buying the house, I believe. 2) Not that great odds, but better since you are first time home buyers. Depends on how you are setting up the loan. How much are you putting down? Please say at least 20%. That way, you don't have to pay for the PMI. Good luck.
There are other factors involved but just based on your credit scores you should have no problem getting prequalified and at a good interest rate. Keep in mind you should have 3 credit scores for each of you and the middle score is the one used to obtain a mortgage. They are not averaged just used as they report. I recommend contacting a mortgage broker as they have hundreds of lenders who will compete for your business from the broker. If you need any help or have any questions feel free to contact me. www.dantadgerson.com
You don't get a 'combined' score that is a combination of the two individual scores, but rather you get a joint score that is a reflection of the repayment of your joint obligations. A 712 is going to be good enough to get you a decent rate. A 650 is not. Hopefully you have a better joint score. The lack of length of time of joint credit is going to hurt you though. Since you have a much higher score, your odds of a good rate is pretty good.
They will use the middle fico of the primary wage earner. Are you doing 100% finance, or do you have a down payment? Your 700 score will get you a decent rate, but the rate will improve with the amount of money you have down. Let me know if you need assistance, I work with a mortgage broker and am a real estate agent.
Call a local bank. you can ususally get a lower rate with a first time home buyer loan. I actually just bought a new house and signed the papers today. I took a home buyer eduacation course and received a $5000 grant to use for closing costs and down payment. Just call around for differnet rates before they increase again and make sure the loan officer locks in your rate.
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I am currently a full time college student and a mom of a 9 month old baby girl residing in southern California. . I attended college starting spring 09. My husband is a half time student and he also started college spring 09 with me. We both were only eligible for 1750 dollars each for subsidized loan. ( if i am not wrong its the loan when government pays for the interest while i am in school) This upcoming fall session we are going to have very hard time making it through financially. My husbands job cut his hours and its very difficult for him to get a second job. I also am looking... well enough about my situation why I am looking into getting a full loan this time. I looked into the edfund website and it says my husband and I can get upto 9500 (subsidized, unsubsidized ). If we put our loans together its enough to pay off one of our car which we still have about 14000 left to pay off. Interest rate for our car is almost 17% due to poor credit. we pay 400 dollars every months. with the money we have left from the loan I was planning on paying off all the credit cards. I have not done number to number calculation but interest rate on the loan is much lower and the paying off period is 10 years so the payment shouldnt exceed 200 dollars per months for both of us. is eliminating my payments by my student loan help us in the long run? I know for a fact that we can pay off our car and all the credit cards that we have. which is about 500-600 less to pay every month. ( I can really use that money to buy my daughter some toys and clothes that I havnt been able to buy at all...) Student loan just sounds too good to be true to me. is there anything I am forgetting that I should be aware??? I am working on my RN associate degree and paying it off slowly doesnt sound bad at all... any advise or comments?? or even own experience??
You can't use federal loans to pay for a car, it isn't allowed under the regulations, my dear, sorry. You may be able to get the additional loan funds for other living expenses though.
Okay, I have an 11 month old and I am in school also right now for my second degree. My husband is the only one working at the moment but I am looking for work now. I have a grant that is paying for everything, so I would suggest looking to see if you qualify for any grants also that could give you a little financial relief. If it is that the loan is the better option for you, I don't think that you should use the entire student loan to pay off all of your bills. Pay off your car for sure because you could be paying on that for a while, being that it is a big purchase. Pay a little on each credit card and use the rest for school. You really don't want to be one of those people who are paying on your student loan for years and years to come. School honestly can be just as expensive if not more than a new car. Just be cautious of accrued interest. Good luck with everything and I hope it works out for you.
...if you spend your loan distribution on everything but school, how will you pay for your education? But assuming you've already figured out how to register for classes without the loan money... After approval, the bank may dispense (all or part of) the loan directly to the school, so check that fine print. Also, read the agreement CLOSELY so you know what's approved to spend the loan disbursement on, because you don't want to touch fraud with a 50-foot pole. Proceed cautiously -- you're paying 17% on your car because you are financially risky to banks, likely because you have a shaky time with credit. You're also especially vulnerable to a family financial emergency. Consider professional financial help.
It may delay closing when the loan processor pulls your credit report a couple of days before closing or if they count the loan payments against your debt to income ratio, it may even cause the mortgage to be denied.
Have you consider to apply for scholarship instead of student loans? Many people has to struggling to pay the loans back because of the high interest rate. Some friends of mine in college told me that they have valuable information regarding scholarships from this place. Good luck
More education is always a good thing. i dont see how else you would get the $$ and quitting is not an option. Try filling out FAFSA as well. Speak with your financial advisor first!
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Are there any mortgage programs in my area (California) that will help me buy a new house and get away from my spouse? Both of us on home loan currently. This is keeping me from prequalifying on another home loan. Rent in the area is as high or higher than current monthly mortgage payments in my range. I can afford it, but noone wants to loan me? (She and I will eventually sell our house, but right now we can't just yet and I need another place to live stat!)
Refinance it and take your share of the equity and leave. When my ex and I split up after six years in our house we refinanced it and I took my share of the equity and signed a quit claim deed. You might try something like that.
There are hundreds if not thousands of websites on the internet enumerating the ways to apply and receive home loan when you are plagued with bad credit issues. These sites help consumers with bad credit scores to increase the viability of their existing credit scores and set up loans regardless of their credit history.Companies that specialize in bad credit home loans; usually offer a wide range of options for consumers with bad credit<!--These options include Bad Credit Home Loans, Home Equity and Line of Credit (HELOC) Loans and different options for Mortgage Refinancing, making it possible for those with bad credit to realize the dream of owning their own home.You can find Home Loans here, http://badcredits.awardspace.com/homeloans.htm They also offer a debt consolidation offer which helps the home owner organize a comprehensive program for controlling their spending. Many consumers with bad credit are grateful for the opportunity to receive a second chance, sort to speak-->Bad credit hasn't stopped them from purchasing a home. There are several programs available for people with bad credit that helps to restore their credit status and to live debt free lives.
Running away is not the answer, deal with the situation legally
No
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I bought my sister a car two days ago with absolutely no knowledge on how to go about it. We dont have any family that could help us or give any advice so we went into this blind. I will admit, I work a lot and did not make time to research how to buy a car. So here is the deal, I have horrible credit and my sister, who is 18, has no credit. She also has no driving history and this is her first car. We went in to a few dealerships and finally settled on Mazda. We got a car for $16,101, $3000 down, an interest rate of 18% and a financing term of 72 months. Her monthly payment is going to be $437. Basically after 72 months she will have paid $31, 464. My question is what can I do about it? I know after 16 months of paying on time we should try and refinance the car, which should help a lot. But what can I do in that 16 months to better our chances of lowering that interest rate substantially? From what I have read, a long with the monthly payment she should also submit a payment to go to the principle alone, my question about that is how much will really make a difference? Also, is this normal? Or did we just get screwed over by the dealership when they realized we had no idea what we were doing. Thanks in advance for all the helpful answers.
So basically we got screwed big time...figures. So there is no possible way now or in the future we could ever lower the payments or interest. From what I gather from your responses this is because no bank will pay off your loan just to offer you a lower deal, cause then they lose money. Our current bank will never lower the interest either no matter how on time we are or how much extra we pay on the principle cause they will also lose money, right?
So basically we got screwed big time...figures. So there is no possible way now or in the future we could ever lower the payments or interest. From what I gather from your responses this is because no bank will pay off your loan just to offer you a lower deal, cause then they lose money. Our current bank will never lower the interest either no matter how on time we are or how much extra we pay on the principle cause they will also lose money, right?
Stumped - No, only California has such a law, and it is a fee-based 48-hour clause... it is not automatic. No other state has a magical "right of rescission" on vehicle purchases. The 3-day law that some states have is only on contracts signed in the home. And... what would the Lemon Law have to do with this? Lemon Laws are for serious, reoccurring defects on vehicles still under the manufacturer's warranty. They have nothing to do with a return period from point-of-sale. Asker- Having bad/no credit means having to deal with very high interest. If you think the total amount of payments is bad, you should see what people pay out in mortgages. Same thing, just to a much higher amount. Whether or not you got "screwed" is subjective. We don't know the "behind-the-scenes" of the deal, whether you had a trade-in or not (which could add to the final price if you were upside-down in the trade), or anything else that could add to the deal. Your sister needs to pay as much as she can over the actual car payment each month, and pay this off as fast as possible. If she does, she will save herself thousands in interest.
Well there are some important things you haven't told us, such as if the car is used or new, its mileage, age, etc. But either way, i personally drive a 2011 Mazda that i'm paying $300 per month for (72 month financing). The interest rate was 0% since i bought it new during a promotion, but either way, even on a used car the financing rates rarely exceed 9% (and that's considered outrageously high). A financing rate of 18% is really...unheard of to put it lightly. I'm guessing its partly because of your credit record, but if it was really that poor you would have been better off not buying a car at all. As for what you can do about it, nothing unfortunately. If you try to break the contract, it will ruin your credit record even further. So unless its something you'd be willing to do, you're pretty much stuck with the car.
I don't think you got screwed, unless you paid more for the Mazda that it's worth (you could have checked kbb.com and nadaguides.com). Your interest rate of 18% is because you have bad credit. In fact, you were lucky to get approved at all if your credit is "horrible." You could try refinancing in a couple of years. Meantime, you and your sister need to get a couple of credit cards, department store cards, or gas company cards and use them often -- but pay off the balance each month. Your credit will improve -- slowly. Also make sure you make your new car payments on time and never miss a payment. Yes, you can send extra money with your car payment to help pay down the loan faster, and it will reduce the total amount of interest you pay (effectively reducing your interest rate). However, make sure your car loan company allows it. Some do, and some don't. EDIT: There are no "right of recission" laws for automobile purchases.
I know after 16 months of paying on time we should try and refinance the car, which should help a lot. --- How? Not happening. Why? You owe $31k. The car is worth $16k. In a year, that car will be worth maybe $13k. Probably less. Possibly more like $10k. Meanwhile, quickie math says 12 x $437 = $5500. Why would a lender fork out $26k for a $10k car? If you have $16k cashmoney in your pockets to cover that ghastly bit of negative equity, then you're set. In that case, I'd ask why you didn't buy a $16k car out the door...or just add on about $1000 a month to that $437 payment and you'll be set by the end of 16 months.
The reason you will not likely be able to refinance is in 16 or 24 months you will still be "upside down" in the loan (owe more than it's worth) which means you'll need a bundle of cash to pay down the negative equity in order to refinance. There is no such thing as a "72 hour right to cancel" an automobile sales contract in any state, PERIOD. There is no right to return a vehicle, unwind the deal, or get any money back.
Yes of course you got screwed. But you really had no other options. You have lousy credit and she has none so the only way you were buying a car is to accept that fact and take the high interest, long term loan. It's a lousy deal but without it you'd still be walking. If you would have asked me I would have told you to take that $3000 and go buy a car with the cash you had and be done with it. But now you have a $31,000 debt staring you in the face and 6 years of high payments before you can get rid of it. Forget about refinancing this loan, that ain't gonna happen. But you need to seriously start to repair your credit, reduce your debt and get your financial life in order so this situation doesn't re-occur every time you need to borrow money. For now all you can do is hunker down and get used to these high monthly payments because they are going to be with you until your sister turns 24.
How are you able to probably get screwed paying purely $800 for a motor vehicle that runs. It feels like the motor vehicle has been nicely cared for. The mileage is surely low. Take it on your mechanic for a whole inspection previously making your determination. do no longer anticipate the motor vehicle to be suited or interior of your budget yet any motor vehicle is well worth $800 if it runs. An previous motor vehicle will furnish you first rate transportation besides the indisputable fact that it extremely is going to fee you in maintenance and maintenance. Any previous motor vehicle will require an excellent form of provider to maintain it working and in good condition. you in addition to could must be conscious that this previous motor vehicle won't have any of the fashionable protection advantageous factors got here upon in the autos of in the present day. flow into this purchase with the approach which you're making an investment in a classic motor vehicle. no longer purely a motor vehicle yet an previous motor vehicle which will require particular interest with the intention to serve you nicely.
Ok here's the deal. You have lousy credit and she has none. The dealer either financed in house or the shopped the loan. Either way the high interest is from the bad credit. You got the basic, bad credit we will still sell you a car and help you out (wink wink) shafting. With the $3,000.00 you put down you could have bought a decent used car from a private person. The only thing you can because the dealer will fight you on this, check into your states rights to rescission laws. Usually this is an unwritten and never mentioned 72 hour right to unwind the deal. Also you will not be able to refinance that car later because the car will not hold the loan value. Edit: The reason I said check into her states is because this is a law dealers hate and will not mention it. There are only 4 states that require not only a dealers license but sales people are licensed, bonded and insured. And yes the law does exist. I was a salesman and knew about this also there is the lemon law.
Good question, I was wondering the same thing myself
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I'm stuck in a bad situation where I'm paying hard bills and people around me that won't pay me back. I need one quick loan and possibly online, if not online, I need one that open well into the evening. I live in Southern California, the San Fernando Valley. I make about $1000 a month with personal expenses that range 250-300. If anyone could throw out a suggestion, it's much appreciated. Thank you.
Please don't go to a payday loan place unless you are absolutely desperate beyond all means. The average person that takes out a $300 loan will end up paying over $700 before it is paid back in full. I used to work at a payday loan place and I quit after only 3 months because it is such an unethical business. They legally steal from people who need help the most. Please find some other solution if AT ALL possible. :)
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I looked across the web and came upon loads of scams. Nevertheless the site that was usefull for me: loaninstantsolutions.us- RE We can I get a quick payday loan with a minimum of 300? I'm stuck in a bad situation where I'm paying hard bills and people around me that won't pay me back. I need one quick loan and possibly online, if not online, I need one that open well into the evening. I live in Southern California, the San Fernando Valley. I make about $1000 a month with personal expenses that range 250-300. If anyone could throw out a suggestion, it's much appreciated. Thank you.
I would search your online phone book, or yahoo yellow pages for a check cashing spot, they usually do payday loans... hope this helps...
Approximately 8 months in the past I have been given a payday mortgage for college without subject concerns at.undecided what you adult men are speaking approximately paying it decrease back in 2 weeks.I only checked the positioning the OP is speaking approximately and you get a twelve months to pay it decrease back.
I think now a days almost all banks are giving pay per day loan
I have used www.mycashnow.com a few times and have had no problems. The customer service is always nice and helpful. You get the money the next day. Use my referrell code if you do apply... HCFNEX. Good luck with your situation.
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Escrow has a couple of different meanings. One applies if you live in California and possibly in some other states. This meaning refers to when an offer has been made on a home and been accepted by the seller and the transaction is proceeding to closing. In this case the property is "in escrow." In other states, this status is referred to as a property being "under contract" or "pending." The second meaning of escrow refers to an account which the lender sets up to pay the taxes and insurance on a property. This is called an "escrow account." A homeowner's monthly payment includes money which goes towards the principal and interest on the mortgage. If an escrow account has been set up, additional funds are collected each month so that when the property taxes and insurance are due, the bank has the money in the escrow account to pay them. Subprime refers to mortgages and other loans made to people with bad credit. To get good interest rates, most people who will be purchasing a home need to have a good credit score. Loans to people with good credit are called "A paper." People with less than stellar credit can sometimes get loans, but often have to pay higher interest rates and may have to meet additional requirements. These loans are called "B paper" or "C paper", depending on how bad the borrower's credit is. Many banks do not give loans to such people, but there are financial institutions who will do so. These are subprime loans. The problems that all of the news media are talking about have to do with the fact that during the past few years, many people with bad credit were able to obtain these subprime loans and are now not able to pay them back. They were given low interest rates to start with, but the terms of the loan were that the interest rate would go up after a few years. Now those rates are adjusting to very high rates, which these people cannot pay. Equity refers to the amount of money a borrower actually has in his home. For example, if a person buying a home puts 10% down, he has 10% of its value as equity. As the person makes his monthly payments, his amount of equity in the home increases until he pays the loan off. Foreclosure refers to the process whereby a person loses his home because he has not made the payments required by the mortgage he obtained.
Foreclosure : the legal proceedings initiated by a creditor to repossess the collateral for loan that is in default Escrow: a written agreement (or property or money) delivered to a third party or put in trust by one party to a contract to be returned after fulfillment of some condition Equity: the difference between the market value of a property and the claims held against it Subprime: getting a mortgage/loan with bad credit and with high interest rate
Escrow is a nutral party that holds funds of a purchase until both sides are satisfied. subprime is a type of loan in which the borrower does'nt meet all the criteria that a conventional loan would require therefore is considered more of a risk which usually means higher interest and less friendly terms so to speak. equity is the value of your property less the amount you owe on it. forclose is what lenders do when you default on your mortgage to take possesion of the property
For Finance and credit solutions I always visit this site where you can find all the solutions. http://your-finance.us/index.html?src=fc...RE :What does escrow mean? what does subprime mean? what does equity mean? what does foreclosure mean? Follow 1 answer
bad credit loan california
Friend of a friend...had girlfriend who got pregnant...they were going to start the family together so friend cosigned car loan for pregnant girlfriend. short while later..it came out that baby isn't friend's and she left and moved to california with the car... now she hasnt paid car payment in 2 months... and friend is getting called to pay...ofcourse he doesnt have the money to catch up the car note and pay for the car that he doesnt have...that's half way across the country. Any options? Can he sue her? How bad will this damage his credit?
Unfortunately, when you co-sign for someone, you are signing a contract that states you are liable for the vehicle payments if the primary defaults. Once the blemishes are on the credit report, they don't come off even if it were to go to court. The lender is not obligated to alter their reports because the contracts were signed by your friend. Your friend can consult a lawyer about the situation, however unless they can provide some proof that she disappeared with the car entirely, I don't see how there would be any case because your friend signed legal documents. I know this isn't what your friend wanted to hear, but it's a rough way to learn not to co-sign.
1
Take her to small claims court for the car is all he can really do. When he cosigned for the car he was signing a contract to pay for the car if the gf did not so he has no recourse from the bank their doing what they should. However if he is going to make the payments he either has the right to the car or to the money he has to pay. If I was him I would sue her for the car and try to sell it for as close to the loan amt as possible so he can pay the diff and get out of the loan, but if he can afford it sue her for the car and make the payments and drive it himself. If her or him don't pay it destroys his credit also not just hers. Good Luck tell him piece of advice never co sign for anything and if you do only cosign what you know you can afford if the person doesn't pay up.
ITS BEST IF YOU CONTACT YOUR LOCAL (DMV) DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES OFFICE, THEY WILL BE ABLE TO ANSWER ANY AND ALL OF YOUR QUESTIONS AND AT THE SAME TIME YOU WILL BE GETTING THE CORRECT ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION. The problem with co-signing is that if she's late on the payments, then you're late on the payments. The payment history shows up on your credit report, too. You may be able to log on to the lender's Web site to track the loan payments online to monitor how she's making the payments each month. Since a co-signer isn't always named on the title, you'll want to review the title document. Even if you're not on the title, if she totals the car and doesn't carry insurance, you're still stuck with the loan payments. It's also typical for a car loan to require insurance during the loan term, so even if she's not violating the law by not carrying insurance (unlikely), she is likely to be in technical default of the loan agreement
Well your friend is on the hook for the car. Take the trip to go and find the car. Get the car back and sell it. In the mean time he needs to make the payments on the car. Also it would be a good idea to take out a insurance policy. Flying out to get the car would be cheeper in the long run and turning it back in or selling it would be his only option or it will effect his credit rating.
This is a touchy one- his credit will have a repo on it if the lien holder can retrieve the car. If they cannot, he could be accused of theft. A repo is not a good thing on his credit at all. In an ideal world he should just ask for the car back but he may have to hire a repo man or detective to find where the car is and then file a suit. If it is over a certain dollar amount it could be considered a felony on her part if he is able to show the car is registered in his name but if it is registered in her name then he gave her a nice gift sadly.
He's on the hook for the payments since he co-signed. best he can do is tell the fiance company where the girl is and have them reposes the car. it will go against his credit rating. may want to pay off the loan then sue the girl. highly unlikely that he will be able to collect.
Foreclose on loan; stick buyers with deficency balance, lien property for judgement amounts in somestates attach wages and garnish bank accounts and of course, screw credit
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I think you're in the right ball park. Of course, as you know, the exact answer depends on what kind of interest rate you can get. This, in turn, is based on things like your credit score. A quick internet search shows that a COMPETITIVE interest rate on a 5-year new car loan is just under 7%. You say you have "alright credit." Is that "pretty good?" Or is that "a little bit bad?" :) Three different situations: 1) You qualify for a 7% loan and borrow $12,500 on a 5-year loan. Your payment would be $247.51. 2) You qualify for an 8% loan and borrow $12,500 on a 5-year loan. Your payment would be $253.45. 3) You qualify for a 9% loan and borrow $12,500 on a 5-year loan. Your payment would be $259.48. As you can see, the interest rate doesn't matter too terribly much. It will just mean a couple less Starbucks (or whatever) each month if your credit gets you a worse loan. Keep in mind that those numbers I'm talking about are just for the part you BORROWED. That means that if the car costs, say, $14,000 and you put down $1,500, you would be borrowing $12,500 and those numbers would be the right ones to use. If, on the other hand, you're looking at a car that costs $12,500 and you're putting down $1,000, then you'll only need to borrow $11,500 and the payments will be about $25 less each month. Three other things to keep in mind: 1) The price for a new car is ALWAYS negotiable. Even if you go to a so-called "no-haggle" dealer (like Saturn). There are TON of websites that give you "tactics" for new car negotiation. Just make sure you're saving at least a few hundred dollars off the asking price. 2) I don't know what state (or country, for that matter!) you live in. But most states charge sales tax and some sort of new vehicle licensing fee. In most parts of California (USA), for example, the tax and licensing adds a FULL 10% to the price of the car you work out with the dealer. This, obviously, will add BACK to all that money you chopped off with your slick negotiating skills! (I usually figure that I can negotiate down by about 10% and then get hit by the State of CA for that 10% and so I plan to pay the "sticker price" to get "out the door." 3) Maybe most important: you don't have to get a loan from the dealer! You can shop around for loans. Look on the internet. Go to your credit union. Know what kind of rate you can qualify before you shop for a car. Bottom line: good luck. It really can be fun to get a new car. Don't stress. Like I said, as long as you can afford "about $250 a month" and you're looking at $12,000 or $13,000 cars, you'll be okay. The exact payment on a $12,500 loan at 7% interest
Depending on the time of the loan. The longer the loan the more you can spend. $12,000 for 4 years at 6.5% is $285. Move that to 5 years at 6.5% and its $234. Click on the link below to go to a calculator, you can mess around with the numbers to get to find the payments.
Go to a credit union and see what you qualify for before going shopping. Different rates and different lengths of of the loan will make it possible to buy more car than $12,000 but try to do something that keeps you within your budget (including licensing and insurance). Look at Consumer Reports for a list of recommended vehicles in your price range.
I purchased an Elantra in 2004. It was close to $1300 and my monthly payments were $218. I think you'll be okay with a $12000 car. The purchase may also help your credit score as well - especially if you make payments on time.
Determine now, in the previous you pass finding, what you experience you could conveniently pay, then shrink that by utilizing 10 or 20 %; that's the least painful state of affairs, have self belief me. i anticipate you're a youngster, residing at living house; 200 or 3 hundred a month is in all probability the main you may desire to seem at paying, as a results of fact finished coverage coverage is gonna' be approximately seven hundred - 1000 a 365 days for any sort of sporty-style vehicle. expenditures will devour you alive, extremely once you're paying out each little piece of extra money you could spare for a vehicle charge that straps you so undesirable that anybody you're able to do is seem at this "mind-blowing" vehicle sitting interior the driveway 'reason you won't be in a position to arise with the money for gas, no longer to indicate going out with pals, on dates, and so on. fabulous is to purchase a 2000 - 4000 vehicle for funds, then get an computerized saving withdrawal set-up at your economic corporation; placed the 5 hundred a month in there, 5 years from you could now purchase a sparkling vehicle for funds or placed a effective down charge on a house or house.
Motorcycles are cheaper!
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Hi everyone, this morning I got in the mail a letter from something called "NATIONWIDE CONSUMER GROUP", with a check of $3000.00 from the CALIFORNIA BANK and a separate sheet of paper entitled as "COMPANY EVALUATION SHEET". So basically, the letter says : OUR COMPANY IS A "SECRET SHOPPING" EMPLOYMENT SERVICE THAT SPECIALIZES IN CONDUCTING RESEARCH TO ASSIST CORPORATIONS TO EVALUATE AND IMPROVE THE QUALITY OF CUSTOMER SERVICE PROVIDED TO THEIR CLIENTS. AS ONE OF THE PEOPLE SELECTED TO PARTICIPATE IN THIS PROGRAM, YOU WILL BE REPRESENTING OUR FIRM AS A RESEARCH PERSONNEL OR COSTUMER SERVICE EVALUATOR OF THE SELECTED MERCHANT OUTLETS AND SERVICE PROVIDERS IN YOUR AREA. do you guys think thats true ?!?!!!!!?!?! Has anyone ever gotten this letter before ?!?! I already called them, they sounded weird to me, but when i asked if it was a SCAM , they started laughing and I ended up telling I would call them later on, after i spoke to my husband ... Please I'm desperate, I dont want to throw out this check and later find out it was real. Please help me... Please Please Please! =( The bank mentioned on the Check is a real bank, I already checked their website (bank website), and it exists. but i dont really know if this whole thing is real or not ... HELP... I dont even know why people play us like that, thats so depressing, we're already living in misery, and they send us checks like that ,making us think that they're real, and that our luck is gonna change as soon as we cash that check.... =( =( =( PLEASE EV1, I NEED ALL "THOUGHTS" I CAN GET ON THIS ONE, THANK YOU SO MUCH.
SCAM....... I can't stress enough
Don't cash that check! They want you to bank the check and they send some part of the money to a third party(or?) no? This thing can not possibly be real, If you have a means of communicating with them, fax them a contract from you stating that you will do NOTHING until such time as their check clears, and if it doesn't they accept all liability for any fees that your bank will charge for a bounced check. Do check with LAW ENFORCMENT and show them the documents and the check, they will be very interested in investigating this obvious FRAUD. Please note, if you go to your local mall and ask any one of the large chain dept. stores about their secret shopper program, they will tell you that YES the store does employ secret shoppers and there are not very many of them and NOBODY recruits secret shoppers by sending them a check for $3000 money is tight enough now that if said check where legit what would prevent the recipient of said check from simply cashing it and then doing absolutely nothing for the company? SNOT REEL! Hate to rain on your parade .... but .....
Obvious scam.
If its too good to be true probnably is
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These people called "YRuc" keep contacting me about how they provide personal services and that i can become a virtual personal assistant and work with them. Typically my job description is to receive client orders from my manager, and then try to negotiate with the individual or company with whom our client is trying to deal with, and get our client's services fulfilled. Now when they hired me through an e-mail, the first job assignment was that i should contact a sculptor in Russia and arrange for a sculpture (artwork) to be done for one of our clients in California, whose name has never been revealed to me except for the name of the sculptor in Russia. I feel there's some scam lingering around. These people have a website that looks genuine, but i still feel that some is wrong somewhere. Any help please!!!???
100% scam. There is no job. There is only a scammer trying to steal your hard-earned money. The next email will be from another of the scammer's fake names and free email addresses pretending to be the "client in California" and will demand you cash a large fake check sent on a stolen UPS/FedEx billing account number and send most of the "money" via Western Union or moneygram back to the scammer posing as the "sculptor in Russia" while you "keep" a small portion. When your bank realizes the check is fake and it bounces, you get the real life job of paying back the bank for the bounced check fees and all the bank's money you sent to an overseas criminal. Western Union and moneygram do not verify anything on the form the sender fills out, not the name, not the street address, not the country, not even the gender of the receiver, it all means absolutely nothing. The clerk will not bother to check ID and will simply hand off your cash to whomever walks in the door with the MTCN# and question/answer. Neither company will tell the sender who picked up the cash, at what store location or even in what country your money walked out the door. Neither company has any kind of refund policy, money sent is money gone forever. When you refuse to send him your cash he will send increasingly nasty and rude emails trying to convince you to go through with his scam. The scammer could also create another fake name and email address like "FBI@ gmail.com", "police_person @hotmail.com" or "investigator @yahoo.com" and send emails telling you the job is legit and you must cash the fake check and send your money to the scammer or you will face legal action. Just ignore, delete and block those email addresses. Although, reading a scammer's attempt at impersonating a law enforcement official can be extremely funny. Now that you have responded to a scammer, you are on his 'potential sucker' list, he will try again to separate you from your cash. He will send you more emails from his other free email addresses using another of his fake names with all kinds of stories of great jobs, lottery winnings, millions in the bank and desperate, lonely, sexy singles. He will sell your email address to all his scamming buddies who will also send you dozens of fake emails all with the exact same goal, you sending them your cash via Western Union or moneygram. You could post up the email address and the emails themselves that the scammer is using, it will help make your post more googlable for other suspicious potential victims to find when looking for information. Do you know how to check the header of a received email? If not, you could google for information. Being able to read the header to determine the geographic location an email originated from will help you weed out the most obvious scams and scammers. Then delete and block that scammer. Don't bother to tell him that you know he is a scammer, it isn't worth your effort. He has one job in life, convincing victims to send him their hard-earned cash. Whenever suspicious or just plain curious, google everything, website addresses, names used, companies mentioned, phone numbers given, all email addresses, even sentences from the emails as you might be unpleasantly surprised at what you find already posted online. You can also post/ask here and every scam-warner-anti-fraud-busting site you can find before taking a chance and losing money to a scammer. 6 "Rules to follow" to avoid most fake jobs: 1) Job asks you to use your personal bank account and/or open a new one. 2) Job asks you to print/mail/cash a check or money order. 3) Job asks you to use Western Union or moneygram in any capacity. 4) Job asks you to accept packages and re-ship them on to anyone. 5) Job asks you to pay visas, travel fees via Western Union or moneygram. 6) Job asks you to sign up for a credit reporting or identity verification site. Avoiding all jobs that mention any of the above listed 'red flags' and you will miss nearly all fake jobs. Only scammers ask you to do any of the above. No. Exceptions. Ever. For any reason. If you google "fake check cashing job", "fraud Western Union scam", "check mule moneygram scam" or something similar you will find hundreds of posts from victims and near-victims of this type of scam. Wasting a scammer's time legally and safely is called "scambaiting". If you google that word, you will find sites where you can read scambaits, post up the emails and email addresses of scammers, post up a fake website, read up on how to alert a hosting company that they are hosting a fake website, ask questions and learn all about the hobby of scambaiting.
Never heard of them but why would anybody hire a random person over the internet to negotiate with their clients?? There is NO reason to use a middleman. The sculptor and client would communicate directly with each other -- there would be no reason for you to negotiate anything when the client in California would have no problem contacting the sculptor directly. And why couldn't your "manager" just receive the orders and communicate with the sculptor?? There is no way I would ever agree to work for anyone I had not met in person at their place of business If you are in the US did they issue you both an I-9 and W-4 form as required by law before you got your first assignment? If not you are not allowed to even start working. Write back to them to say that you just met with your case officer at the unemployment office and you cannot start for them until they issue both documents to you and you present them to your case worker to verify the company is legitimate. Also say that you need their registered business address and tax ID number so your case worker can verify they are a legitimate company as this will affect your current unemployment payments
It sounds like a typical fake check scam. Your first "job" would be to deposit a check and forward most of the proceeds oversees. Then, a few weeks later, you find out that the check was fake. You would be responsible for covering the back check and possibly even facing criminal fraud charges yourself.
That's a rip-off and you will not see a penny of the "winnings" and you will particularly lose the £1500. they additionally will, in case you pay this quantity, have info of you financial enterprise account and could then syphon off your funds. additionally they'd have consistent with danger your e mail handle shown and could then attempt to pass into your computer and get different information approximately you. the guideline is have no touch and delete the e mail and neglect it. additionally continually undergo in suggestions. If it sounds to solid to be genuine, that's not genuine.
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Schools like University of Phoenix, ITT Tech, DeVry, Corinthian, Kaplan and others are "for profit" schools. Also most of the various “Art Institutes” in many cities. Also known as “proprietary schools”. They tend to be very expensive, the qualifications of the instructors range from very good to awful and their credits are seldom transferable. Most employers only consider candidates from these schools if there are no suitable applicants from a more traditional school. A for-profit institution has one goal above all: to make money. Recruitment personnel at these schools are instructed to use any means possible to convince you to enroll including tactics such as misleading people on how much financial aid they are truly eligible to receive, using pressure tactics such as saying there is only one seat left in a class, and telling students that their credits will transfer anywhere. These schools offer a lot of online programs and this is not to say that online programs are bad. Some are very good. Even these can give you a reasonable education. There are people who have graduated from these schools and make a good living. My objection is that the education they give you is incredibly expensive compared to traditional and non-profit schools, whether online or not. Grads from these schools tend to take a fair bit longer to find jobs than grads from more traditional schools and they have a lot more debt. Other on line schools like UCLA Extension or Athabasca University in Canada are fully accredited and seen to be excellent ways to get an education. Basically, what you want is the online division of a traditional accredited university to get an online degree that counts for something. As for going to the classroom courses offered by these for profit schools, even the bachelors level courses the for profit schools offer are considered at best by employers to be on par with what you get from a community college. But often they are nowhere close. However, a community college will be far cheaper and community college credits are transferable to a 4 year university in most cases. Credits from the for profit schools seldom will transfer anywhere. The for profit schools even mention this in their TV ads, at least here in California. Some say they are accredited but to check, call your closest state university and check to see if they will accept credits earned from one of these schools. Unless they can say absolutely for sure yes, the answer is no. DO YOUR HOMEWORK! That is, few other schools will accept credits from them. However, it appears that Point Park University in Pittsburgh may accept some credits from proprietary schools. See http://www.pointpark.edu/,http://www.pointpark.edu/Admissions/Tran... and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_Park_...Have a look at these links: http://www.ripoffreport.com http://www.time.com/time/business/article/0,8599,2000160,00.html?artId=2000160?contType=article?chn=bizTech http://ca.mg2.mail.yahoo.com/dc/launch?.gx=1&.rand=4s3ron7rrj3r6 http://www.pissedconsumer.com http://www.complaintsboard.com Basically it says these schools are just student loan mills where they get you to sign for big student loans and then they do the minimum possible so you get an education. Just enough so you keep coming. Whether you get a job or default on the loan afterward is irrelevant to them. I have heard many stories from people who have gone to these for profit schools who have been left with a bigger debt than many graduates from a traditional 4 year university while still not being able to get a job. I personally know a part time instructor for one of these schools and he had to quit after two semesters as he could not keep his mouth shut any longer about how expensive it was compared to a community college or a state university. It has been reported at: http://www.scpr.org/news/2010/07/24/report-feds-downplaying-student-loan-defaults/ that 40% of students that took out loans to go to these “for profit” schools end up in default. With a corresponding hole in those student’s ability to get credit for other things. In the current academic year (2010), the average tuition and fees a for-profits was $14,000, compared with $2,500 for the average community college. So if you want an online school make sure it is the extension department of a “bricks and mortar” school. And before you sign, call the registrar’s office of your state university whether they will accept the credits for transfer. If the state university will not accept the credits, run away from signing with one of these “for profit” schools. State universities are a great bargain over online colleges, and you'll get a better education.
My sister called the University of Phoenix once to ask about information on enrolling in their school, and even though she declined and decided not to do it - and she told them that - they called every day and hounded her wanting her to go. If you call them, don't give them contact information unless you are really wanting to go because they will drive you crazy wanting you (and your money) at their school. There's also the cost. Unless I'm mistaken, the University of Phoenix is really expensive - like 12k a year - and although they do have Pell Grants and such to go, if you are a grad student like myself - you will either have to go on loans or personal money, which - I don't know about you - I don't have 12k laying around the house or in the bank right now. You would do better to contact a college or a university close to you and ask them about their online programs to be truthful. You will be an instate student then, and you won't pay nearly as much to go that way. Your local college or university also has an established name, like Duke University, or WVU, for example, and doesn't look like some 'online school' out there somewhere that's in it for the money only. That's my opinion. You're better off going to a school close to you, even if it's online, and the University of Phoenix is expensive.
I think they're good for those who couldn't succeed in regular schools. They're getting a bad rap these days because of those enrollment practices and loan defaults, but I think they're good because it gives people a second chance. Its sort of like the community colleges. The only issue with them is that their academic calendar is nuts. I know of some schools where semesters last only 7 weeks or less. There's no way students can learn a course in say Business or Psychology in 7 weeks or less, its too much. These kind of subjects require at least 15 or 16 week semesters, maybe even 10 week quarters like they do at Northwestern or University of Chicago.
This is a pivotal period; or should be because I believe in the future on-line learning will be the standard. What this says for the institutional schools, and how credit can be given to self educated people is yet to be worked out. There is also the point of school reputation; let's face it some are honestly helping people, while others are just cheap money grabbers. I do believe there is an index of some kind that rates schools; try the local library.
Will never be taken seriously on a job application when next to a real college graduate. Youre much better off going to community college or applying for financial aid at a regular college.
They are really easy and most people don't take them seriously at all, it's like paying a bunch of money for a degree people will laugh at. I would suggest community college for two or three years (they have night and online classes!) and then transferring.
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Alright, basically I have $80 in the bank, a $9000 medical loan that my parents forced me to take to get my teeth fixed after they put messed up braces on them in the first place (both me and my mom are signed on, so could I somehow sign myself off it so long as they have one dependent, don't turn this out to make me sound heartless or vengeful, my own reasons too long to state and I want just the answers.) and about $1800 I owe on my credit card. I have paid everything on time up to now so my credit is good. Basically I have a couple of friends and possibly some relatives that would allow me to move out to them all around california. But I have to get out of my hometown because of alot of depression. I need a change in life so that I can get away from the place that always has me in the dumps. I'm going to start looking and doing over the phone interviews for jobs if I can convince friends and families to allow me to live in other areas. In the meantime I have to stay at my parents house for the simple fact that I dont pay rent here. No I dont want to fix relation to my parents and to my area, I just want to leave and find a new place to live, new friends, etc. without doing some military bullshit. Even did a year of americorps nccc and found out how much it sucked, probably would do a year of americorps city-year if I knew that things were going to be this bad coming back home. So, -Loan, Should I get one? -Should I start calling up friends/relatives, I think I can get a place to stay with and start looking for work around their areas? -should I keep this from my parents or tell them of my plans to move out?
You could end up in debt , watch this to see what that means : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Drz8szW9Nc
Why dont they purchase him outright ? For a club that are 'loaded' Celtic look linked with extra loans than the Provi - hasnt the penny dropped yet that Celtic are skint ? it is going to likely be lots worse on the tip of the season - a fifteen million quid loss heading Celtic's way. i presumed Celtic have been procuring Keane final summer season ? As suggested in the comparable newspapers which you're prepared on quoting while they print feckin fairy thoughts approximately Rangers. Will you ever study ? RobbieWilliamsmorelikeforskintCFChaha...... appropriate me right here Matty, yet you and best pal the two reported which you envisioned Mowbray to sign 5 or 6 gamers in January - no point out of non-public loan gamers. funds wasnt an merchandise and tens of millions have been suggested. a clean defence, a pair of midfielders and a minimum of one striker if my reminiscence serves me properly - how lots could that upload as much as ?
You don't want the kind of loan you can get without a job. Get a job first. You've got it pretty easy at your parent's place, because you're living there for free. Trust me, when you're out on your own, having your parents pay for everything will seem like paradise. You cannot get a loan just to move out. That is extremely stupid. You need to save money to afford to move out, and even then, you need ongoing income to maintain the expense of living on your own. Until you have a job, you better not try to move out. It's expensive, and you might find that those people who offered to let you stay with them soon change their minds. Put up with staying at home. Get a job there. When you have a good income and some savings behind you, then you can consider moving out. But not before. Otherwise you could end up coming back to your parent's place with your tail between your legs. Seriously, look at the debt you're carrying. You'd be lucky to get a consolidation loan if you had a job. Don't borrow even more. You can't keep borrowing money and not repay it. No lender would give you a loan with your current debt burden. You need to pay it off. Moving out costs money and can be a logistical nightmare. Do you have a car? Do you have enough money saved for at least 3 months living expenses (including rent)? You can't get a loan for these. That is ridiculous. You don't borrow money for essential living expenses. No lender will give you a loan for that, and the ones that offer it are probably just trying to scam you. Its called "advance fee loan fraud" where they offer a loan and you have to send a fee. Except there is no loan and they pocket the fee. So keep your money, keep saving, and when you have enough to support yourself, and a job, THEN you can move out. But you need to repay the loans first. I know it's probably depressing. But hey, sometimes it's depressing for me working 2 jobs to pay off my mortgage. Life is hard. Sometimes when stuff gets you down in the dumps you just have to deal with it and keep going. And there is no guarantee that changing your life by moving towns will make it any better. So start by getting a decent job doing anything. Even a casual part time job is better than nothing. Start working, and save at least 3 months of living expenses, get debt free, and that way, if you lose your job, you have time to find another. Also, when you're debt free, you don't have to find money to pay a debt. That is pretty liberating. You'll just have to grin and bear it. Tell your parents that you would like to move out at some stage and need to save some money. They might know someone who is looking for employees. Best wishes.
Until you find a job you won't know what loan payments you can afford and nobody will loan you money unless you have a way to pay it back. It will be hard enough with the debts you already have.
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I am married man and I am registered nurse. I want to invest money to buy single family homes, but my wife does not want to. Even though she is not working, I Keep telling her that we both will be on the deed. But she still refuses to sign any escrow paper. Is there a way that I just buy the property and she should not know and she still be on the title. If she can't be on the title, then she has to sign the quit claim deed and she won't do it. Now I don't know how I can invest money without telling her. Please answer my question. Thanks
In a community property state such as California, a married person may buy a property in his/her name but the other spouse must sign a quit claim deed indicating they want no part of the transaction. There must be some reason your wife is not interested in real estate investingg. You did not indicate what these reason were. Not knowing this puts a damper on any advice given concerning you doing real estate investin on your own. Lying on a legal document indicating you are a single person when you are married is fraud. This could lead to legal problems down the road along with being arrested for real estate fraud. The best way to do this if you still want to do real estate investing is to form a corporation. You will have to seek help from your tax consultant and others that give you advise you trust. There are several different corporations you may form. Some allow you and the corporation to act as one entity for tax purposes, therefore your wife will be required to be involed because you might be filing your income tax as a married couple plus the corporation. There are others that allow the corporation to be taxed alone and you act as an employee of the corporation and you file taxes on the payments received from the corporation. You should check with your tax consultant as to which is best for you. Forming a corporation and buying property under the corporation's name degates the requirement of your wife to sign for any property owned by the corporation. Keep in mind that if you plan to purchase property through the corporation that it must qualify for a mortgage loan as if it was an individual with the same requirements. Two years of fed income taxes, the ability to repay the mortgage and proof that it can. Assets as well as bank accounts with bank statements to prove the assest exist. You might still purchase a property with the corporation and the corporation even if the corporation does not fully qualify for a mortgage. The lender would require a personal gurantee meaning they would require you to sign both as an executive of the corporation as well as yourself personally guaranting the loan. This is called a recourse loan. If the corporation can qualify on it's own then it would be called a non-recourse loan. I hope this has been of some use to you, good luck. "FIGHT ON"
Hi, I think some education for your wife might be in order, from someone other than you, no offense. A third party influence could be helpful, but my expertise is not in marital affairs, even after two of them, LOL. An attorney might be bucks well spent, it should not be hard to find one who invests in real estate. The answer to the question is yes! The rule is, it takes one to buy and two to sell! If you have access to funds to provide certified funds at a closing, you can buy anything you want to. You can put the property in your name only. You can later provide a half interest by quit claim to keep the peace. The only time you may have a problem is when you get a loan to purchase, the lender will require her to sign the note and deed of trust, always, unless you use a Trust or, say a Limited Liability Company (LLC). If you establish a Trust and fund the trust for the purchase, that will work but if you need a loan, the Trust will need to show the ability to pay then loan, and yes you can have a conventional home loan, in the name of the borrower's Trust, but an LLC would be a business loan. I suspect you are requiring a loan as you said escrow documents, I think you mean closing documents. Some states require transactions to be closed in escrow, but this simply is for a third party agent to transfer funds and good title. As is usually the case, if you got enough money you can do what ever you want to, but if there is a loan the lender will require her to sign. Reason is, even if she is not on the deed, she has a marital interest in the property and in the event of a foreclosure the lender will want to foreclose on her as well as you in the event of default. Another reason is for title insurance purposes, as her interest needs to insured over when you pass on the title, that's why it always takes two to sell. You might consider a straw man, a third party to buy it for you and then he quit claims the property to you. You must tell the bank what your arrangement is, otherwise, the lender can call the note due under the Due on Sale Clause. You can co-sign a note by yourself, but if you are a borrower, then she is back in the picture. You might check with other lenders. If you find a "private investor" known by Realtors and closing agents, they can buy the house and you can buy it from them on an installment contract without her signature, or better yet, put your name on the deed with the investor as a partnership after the investor acquires the property. If you know what a quit claim deed is and actually does, conveying only that interest that the grantor has in the property or to the extent of participation, like a half interest, then such a deed may be used, but understand you would not be insured under any title policy from the initial closing, unless you obtained a policy after you acquire it by quit claim. Have you ever considered making mortgages instead of owning the house? If you make a loan to someone who buys the house, you'll receive payments each month and if they don't pay, you can take a deed in lieu of foreclosure by accepting a quit claim deed. You can make someone a loan without your wife signing anything. If you take back a property, she never signs a thing. But even if you acquire a property by foreclosure or a deed in lieu of foreclosure, you will need her to sign when you sell the property. Now I'll talk like an old man, this is really something you and your wife need to get straight. There is some reason she doesn't want to buy a house and that's strange. You really need to find out what the reason is and overcome the problem with her, again, a third party might help. Maybe you're bitting off more than she thinks you can chew, it's a matter of trust and if you are new in a marriage, get some help, because this is something that can lead down the divorce alley, maybe you should talk about that too! Hope you work it out. Maybe my answer is not what you wanted to hear, but that's the way it is! Good Luck! B
For Credit and finance solutions I recommend this site where you can find all the solutions. http://personalcreditsolutions.info/inde...RE :Can I buy a house in my name if my wife refuses to buy or sign any escrow papers or even quit claim deed? I am married man and I am registered nurse. I want to invest money to buy single family homes, but my wife does not want to. Even though she is not working, I Keep telling her that we both will be on the deed. But she still refuses to sign any escrow paper. Is there a way that I just buy the property and she should not know and she still be on the title. If she can't be on the title, then she has to sign the quit claim deed and she won't do it. Now I don't know how I can invest money without telling her. Please answer my question. Thanks 2 following 16 answers
Yes, you could buy a home under your name only without having your wife sign any papers. The way to do it is for you to take the title as a "Single Man" even though you are married. This way your wife will not have to sign anything... not even a "quick claim deed" or "inter spousal deed" If you mention that you are married to the escrow or title company, they will force your to have your wife sign a quick claim. Just one little thing: Keep in mind that even if your wife is not title, your wife is still entitled to 50% of the home if you live in a community property state like California.
I think this question should better off be in marriage and family relationships. Why would you buy property behind your wife's back? something is very wrong there. It wouldn't really matter anyway if she weren't on the deed. In a "community property" state she's still 1/2 owner.
At least in the state of CA.... You could take title as married man as sole and separate property.....but she does have to sign a quit claim/grant deed. Community property state. You won't be able to purchase a property with or without another partner if she won't sign.
Yes, you can buy property in just your name. You will not be able to sell the property without your wife signing the off title deed. A buyer will not accept a deed without your wife giving her ownership rights also. The seller does not care who they are selling the property to.
Depends on two things: 1) How closely does your wife watch your finances? 2) Can your income and credit history, without your wife's, qualify you for the necessary loan(s)? If you can answer "Not very" to #1, and "Yes" to #2, then you can probably do it. Otherwise, she'll bust you for sure. Oh, there's a 3rd question you need to ask yourself here: If I do this and she finds out about it, will she divorce me? Think long and hard before you do this. It might cost you more than mere money.
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Have you heard of LLC. You should avoid buying Realestate in your own name. You can then grant your wife shares in the company or not [I would probably lean to the not] - wheter she wants them or not. You can incorporate in Nevada which is totally Private - that means the owner(s) never are listed in public records. Plus Nevada has a very good tax structure for Corps. Almost none.
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Ok, so my boyfriend needed a truck for his business and since he had bad credit at that time we both decided to get it under my name. Now that his credit has gone up, we want to change the loan under his name, and get the vehicle registered under his name as well, since he's been taking over the payments. Can someone tell me how we can go about doing all of this? Oh we live in California, just in case there are certian laws in each state.
The terms of the loan have already been agreed upon. The bank does not have any interest in changing it. Simply, they don't get anything out of it. . Your option is to have him request a loan. Then sell him the vehicle. However, this is another sale. He will have to pay sales tax on it, as well as DMV fees for the title transfer, registration, and tag fees.
Go to the bank and ask them for a loan, sell him the truck. You can't just change the name on the loan, you have to have a new loan. Bill of Sale will give you what you need to change the title.
He would have to refinance the loan. Most Auto finance companies will not change the name. Decisions are based on credit scores..if people could switch the names on Auto loans there would be no motivation for people like your once deadbeat of a boyfriend to pay his bills on time, like he agreed to when he signed his contracts. Try his bank.
I'd call the company that holds the loan and see if it's possible to change the financial responsibility to him. The terms may change, since he's only now got his credit in check. They're the ones you have to ask, laws don't really play as much of a roll in this as the willingness of the loan company to change who is responsible for the loan.
Consult with your financial insitutation. They can direct you in the right direction. Bascially, he probally will have to take out a car loan at one of the banks in your area with a lowest apr rate and apply for the pay off amount of the truck. Don't forget to get the disability insurance and gap insurance. It is very important to get two items whe you are doing a loan.
U should have asked this BEFORE. It's too late sister. U can't MAKE him do anything. U can only ask him, but you signed ur name on the dotted line, so deal with it.Sounds like u picked a guy who doesn't know how to take care of himself, or he knows how to use women.Hope ur relationship lasts as long as the truck does. He probably isn't done using you yet, as long as you let him.
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I'm not usually one to fall for scams or chain letters or anything of the sort. But I got a letter and check in the mail today. As much as the letter sounds like a scam, the check appears to be real. It has a watermark, heat sensitive ink, the bank it's drawn from is real (I looked it up), and it appears to be completely legit. I'd almost bet my life that if I took the check to the bank right now I could cash it without a problem. My skepticism comes with what the letter says. It states that I've "emerged as one of the second category winners of the SAINSBURY LOTTO INC program" blah blah blah...and I signed up via mall signup ticket (very possible as I fill those things out sometimes). It says that I won US $100,000 and the check of $1700 that's enclosed is for payment of the Non Resident Service tax and Clearance Fee, which is $1200. It tells me to contact my assigned agent immediately to process the winning. When I called, I just got voicemail telling me to leave a detailed message.
I figured it was a scam. But what about the check drawn from Health Associates Federal Credit Union in California? The address on the check matches the address on the bank's website. And like I said, the check looks to be 100% legit. I'd never give anyone my personal information but I've got no problem cashing a check from someone who planned to attempt scamming me.
I've left my standard answer below this as the links may be helpful. Unsolicited lotteries are not real. The cheque may look good but it will not clear, just throw it away. It is scam. Yahoo (insert any company name here, this answer works for all!) do not run an email lottery, if they did you could guarantee it would be advertised all over their home page. Check out these links and search answers to see how many people 'win' the exact same lottery every day http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/lottery_sca...http://www.hoax-slayer.com/email-lottery...Do not click on any links, the page you will be taken to will look authentic but is not Do not send them a 'courier fee' or any other money Do not hand over any bank details or passwords Do report spam Do delete Remember there is no such thing as a free lunch. You cannot win a lottery if you haven ot bought a ticket. Anyone can set up an email account with Yahoo, they can use any combination of letters they choose. I could be 'thequeenmother@yahoo.com' or 'disneyfreeticketsgenuine@yahoo.com' That doesn't mean that I am either of these and is fine as long as I don't try to use the address to mislead people. Don't be fooled by legitimate looking email addresses which end the same way as any other free account, don't be fooled by fictitious titles such as 'Dr' or 'Executive Director of Winner Claims'. (I've answered this question so many times that I now keep this answer on my desktop and just copy and paste....that should give you a clue!)
I got a letter from world wide lotto as well. It has a check with it. The check is to cover the tax and clearance fee(it says). It says to cash or deposit the check. It also gives an agent name, phone number and location. I have done nothing with the check because Im concerned that it may be a scam. I havent been able to reach the agent listed on the letter. If Im able to contact this person, I will let you know what they say. It seems very shady.
I guarantee that once you cash the check it will bounce. You will then be assessed a bounce fee. It may also be possible for the scammers to know your account number since it will be on the bounced check.
It's a scam. Be careful about divulging any personal details. It's come up here before.... http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index.php?qid=20070508100322AAEAcKe
best personal loans california
I am going to grad school for a law degree, and I really want to go to Stanford. Consequently, it is approximately 50 grand a year. I have heard a lot of mixed advice on what to do. I guess what my question is, is the debt worth it to go to a private school, at least one as prestigeous as Stanford. Or would I get equal educational experience AND opportunities for going to a public university, say Cal or UCLA? I do not want to get myself into $100,000+ debt if I can get the same thing for significantly less. My personal argument has always been that Stanford has always been somthing I have dreamt about, and if I want it, I can have it and shouldn't worry TOO much about the loans it will take. Idk, what do you think?
In my opinion, its your education and your preference where you acquire your education from. I know that Stanford is a REALLY good school; well worth the money. But, UCLA is really good too. The difference in the two is one is private which will be more expensive and the other is public....But for both of them to be on the top 25 of America's Best Universities should speak for something... http://colleges.usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/usnews/edu/college/rankings/brief/t1natudoc_brief.php Sometimes, private universities and colleges are worth it if you're looking for a smaller teacher to student ratio and such... Ultimately, the decision is up to you & what you prefer your degree to read: "Stanford University" or University of California, Los Angeles."
The reputation of your law program will have a big influence on determining where you work. Small firms (less money) will take any graduate from just about any law program, while bigger firms (more money) and companies (like Yahoo, Microsoft etc...) tend to go for the graduates from better law schools first. You might not get as much opportunities if you go to a public school (vs going to a private school) Most of the top law schools are private and firms tend to recruit from the top law schools first, then if they need or want to recruit more, then wil go to other schools. The education at public schools might not be equal as well cuz it is in the schools' interest to uphold their prestige so they will hire great professors and give their students the best education they can give, so that the top firms will keep on coming to them first. I think you should just aim for Stanford and not those public schools. You will probably have more internship opportunities and meet more recruiters on campus than you would at a pubilc school. Dont worry about the loans. Lawyers in general make a good amount of money (especially corporate lawyers) and if you plan a budget and stick with it, you will have that debt under control. AIM FOR STANFORD AND NOT CAL OR UCLA.
It'll be more like $250,000 by the time you get your JD The Diploma will be pretigious and might get you into a NYC based Fortune 500 company. But to be frank UCLA is also held quite high. I have a friend who went to the San Fernando College of Law, a very small school with no name and he's doing quite well after all these years. I have another friend you didn't even graduate with a BA and he became a Para Legal doing Workman's Comp and did it for 7 years on one side of the room and 7+ years on the other side and he's making at least $50K which is typical "local" assocaites pay for a graduate JD in a small law firm fresh from Law school. UCLA will cost you about $100,000 including books IF your family resides in California (they go by your FAMILY address). They have a very nice law library plus there is always the LA County Law Library in Downtown to draw from.
I would really really weight in my options, I opted out of Cal and UCSD because of money when G.E's are cheaper yet the same at CSUF. If you can get the same at UCLA or CAL I would do it because both are respected names. I do not know how well their law is but If i was you I would look into it. If Stanford is really your dream go for, but makes sure you are not getting yourself into a dept your future job can't get you out of. Lawers make good money, depending on the type you are, they also are a dime a dozen which makes it harder to make good money, meaning longer to pay off school depts. I would go to CAL, they are a great school just as ranked as Stanford, maybe not as notable, but just as good.
The thank you to get that 4th grader just about loose into college - would be disccussed later. i might do the 30 in case you do no longer think of you may cope with the money on a fifteen. under no circumstances enable your fee to be greater advantageous than 25% of your take domicile pay. in case you do a classic mounted own loan (no longer any variables or hands), you could actually positioned greater funds in direction of vital any time you want. merely mail in a separate examine with the words interior the memo "fee in direction of vital in basic terms". examine with the lender to make particular - in basic terms a penalty with variable costs - yet ensure. The decrease money will enable you to save. you may pay off autos, initiate putting funds away into retirement, and save for college. right here is the college section: Google FAFSA - then google anticipated relations Contribution Calculator. you would be conscious that they assume you to pay a undeniable quantity out of your decrease fee costs for college. 529's are even worse - i think of 25%. This quantity you could locate the money for would be envisioned out of your pocket. each thing in taxable money owed, which comprise decrease fee costs, checking, and brokerages will additionally count selection. So your purpose could be to have little or no 2 years till now your new child is going off to varsity. Collges furnish super pupil loans that don't could be off till lthe new child graduates - you pays those off for him. in an attempt to "cover" funds. 2 years till now, make a purpose to have not any debt. No vehicle loans, no loan, no taxable money owed. cover funds in 401K's, IRA's, etc There are seminars which will fee you 1000's for this information - get excitement from. in case you get in a bind - which you will no longer via each and all the loans you will get, you could take a private loan on your place, AFTER filling out the FAFSA. /
A law degree is much different than any other grad degree. Where you go is VERY important if you want to work in the corporate world. If you can get into Standford, go there instead of UCLA. If you are talking about USC vs. UCLA, they are the same level for law school so it shouldn't matter, save money and go to UCLA. Yes, you will be in more debt (well over 100K) but you will also be making well over 100K your first year. However, if you aren't going into corporate law, you may want to talk to alumni from schools like UCLA to see where they are at in their career. I have some great, true life examples of people I know: My friend, Lana, she got accepted into Northwestern, Chicago, USC, and Kent for law school. Kent gave her a full 3-year scholarship and she accepted, thinking "what a great deal! No debt after law school!" Well, after her first year in law school, she regretted her choice. She tried to get internships in high level law firms in Chicago during the summer, but even with her high GPA, she didn't get a good response. She got some responses from low level firms. She learned that big, high level firms only like to hire students from the "big" name schools. If she had chosen any of the other schools, it would have been a step higher than Kent. Now that she is done with law school and passed the bar, she is looking at various opportunities outside of the Chicago area because all of the big firms will not take her (even though she finished top 5% of her class). It's been 6 months but she's looking for a job. She can probably find a job if she wanted 60-70K salary but she is aiming higher. If you look at the big firm websites, they list the lawyers' names, what school they attended, etc. The big firms usually want to show that all of the attorneys went to Ivy league or equivalent schools. Another friend, Cindy, she went to Columbia Law School. She had passing grades in law school. Summer internships were easy to find...the big name companies come on campus to recruit them. She now works at a big law firm. Starting salary was $150K. She now makes over 250K. (Her student loans were about 160K) My brother went to University of Hawaii. It is the best known law school there. He finished, passed the bar, and he clerked for a judge for one year after law school because of his low grades. He is now working for one of the biggest law firms in Honolulu and makes a little over 100K. My friend James went to a law school (I don't even know the name...it's near Cal State Fullerton) and barely passed his classes and the bar. He worked for a personal injury law firm. He turned out to be one of the best attorneys in the firm. After 10-12 years, he built a name for himself and now he has his own law firm, makes a couple of millions a year (he won't disclose how much he makes!) and living his dream. In conclusion, I personally think you should reach for the top school if you are going for corporate law. The doors will be wide open for you just because you went to a big name school. Of course, UCLA is a great choice too and it's in the top 20 for law school but when an employer sees Standford on your resume vs another student from UCLA, they will look at your resume first. Hope this helps. Best wishes!

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